wrong motormount smashed header pics

[patternmakerbob]

Here is what not to do if the motor mounts are not for a big block.
As you can see old dumb*ss that I bought the truck from gets another point.Nothing like purposly burning the valves.
Also discovered the starter is swingin on 1 bolt. That is one way to keep from shimming it. Way to go slim!

I am going to weld a piece of pipe (see lines in pic) to joint the front two headers into one pipe and give myself the clearance without spending a fortune. Let me know if this is a no no and why.
Thanks,
Bob

[arkracing]

gotta love hackers.

what year is the truck and what type of motor mounts are in it?
could you put some regular truck exahust manifolds on it and just have two front pipes made up to meet your existing exahust?? -

I don't really think it would be a good idea to just route the front tube to the second tube - defeats the purpose of the header. I suppose you could do it but it just seems like a lot of work to "hack" it up again. I'd rather see a set of truck mainfolds on it - you can pick them up @ swap meets for $75-100, but if you don't have the right mainfolds I guess that won't work either huh?

If you make the 1 Pipe bigger and say "step" the two primaries into 1 pipe that is about 1.5x's the diameter that it is now it might be better.

or if you can re-route the primary by (moving it back a little) - you can buy pre bent "header" kits or just single bends - you should be able to cut the weld off the flange fomr the "block" side of the header and turn the front primary tubes back a little bit and make them head back before heading down.
If your primaries are 1.75" - (they have all kinds of size pre-bent mandrel pipe to cutom make headers)
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294787628

[Ron 586]

I know this is not what you want to hear but just my .02 You just bought this truck and you are finding things not to your expectations or liking. If you plan to keep the truck then I would recommend that when you find cobbled and shoddy work you take it out and repair it correctly. Yes it will take time and money but once done you don't have to mess with it again. If you are only going to patch and cobble you are doing the same as the PO. And we all know what you think of him.

[patternmakerbob]

It's a 71 with a 454, 3 speed. The tower mounts are not correct. They are for a small block (which is what I will replace this motor with if it fails).
Believe me I know the only way to do something is to do it right. But sometimes you work with what you got to keep the wife happy.

In order to do it right I will need big block motor mounts $85 ebay.?? New cushions that work with the motor mounts $$?? don't know yet but have heard expensive. New headers if I want to match the existing new exhaust. $275?? Or replace with factory manifolds and tow it to the exhaust shop to have it mated to the new exhaust. Looks to me like a $500 repair. Too much to spend right now on something that isn't even licensed yet.

I will fix it right in time, but for now I need to get it on the road. Idea was to drive and wrench it but have done nothing but the latter.

Bob

[Ron 586]

I know what living pay check to pay check is as that was how it was for most of my adult life. Keeping the wife happy is something else I have had a little experience with. My first mistake lasted 7 1/2 years. Strike two lasted 2 1/2 years. Well my wife #3 and I made an agreement that who ever left had to take the kids, so we neither one would leave. Next August 11th will make 30 years. Now back to the truck do you have to have it or is it a I would like to have it running. If you have to have it then do what you must. but if you don't have to hold off until you can do it right.

[cableguy0]

regardless of which mounts you have shouldnt let that happen. in order for that to happen the mount came apart. worn out motor mounts would have came apart with a small block or a big block just the same.obviously it was the old style mounts that were recalled 30 years ago because they seperate and are a huge safety issue.the new mounts have a safety catch in them that stops them from completely coming apart. if im not mistaken the stock replacement mounts were revised. i know the poly mounts from energy suspension and prothane have the safety catch built in so they cant seperate but they are spendy. if it was me i would heat the header tubes up red hot with a torch and push them back out with a prybar or whatever heavy piece of metal you can fit down in the tube. that would be the fastest easiest thing to do

[patternmakerbob]

The truck hasn't been driven much since the guy put in the 454. It seems like this truck was just a throw together cruise vehicle for last summer. I can't believe how many bolts are hand tight. Which in the case of the headers was alright I guess. Took them off in about an hour.
This isn't a result of them hitting the mounts this is the previous owner's way of clearing the mounts without replacing the towers for a big block.

How do I check the existing motor mounts to see if they are no good?
Thanks,
Bob

[cduster]

When I tried to put my BB on SB towers stock manifolds would not fit. They hit the tower same place your hedders did. I'm not positive, but I would think you would run into some back pressure problems running two cylinders into one tube. Don't know if it would make a big difference or not.

[cableguy0]

after clearing that up in pm getting the big block stands is about your only safe solution to the problem. you are going to have clearance issues even with manifolds as stated. it just shouldnt be done that way.the problem is finding big block stands for these year trucks

[70rs/ss]

You can use the 73 and up mount (the whole thing, the clamshell and the part that goes from the framerail to the crossmember) you will need to drill a hole in the crosmmember to match the new mount. Then you can use the 73 and up headers or manifolds. The 73 and ups look alot like the 72 BBC mounts and are a dime a dozen in the wrecking yards!!

[arkracing]

Originally Posted by 70rs/ss

You can use the 73 and up mount (the whole thing, the clamshell and the part that goes from the framerail to the crossmember) you will need to drill a hole in the crosmmember to match the new mount. Then you can use the 73 and up headers or manifolds. The 73 and ups look alot like the 72 BBC mounts and are a dime a dozen in the wrecking yards!!

I agree - just get the 73+ mounts and put them in your truck and then put 73+ headers on it.

[53burb]

This is kinda along the lines of what I wanted to do. If I do this, like I want to do, do I need '73+ headers or will the 67-72 headers work for a SBC??

[patternmakerbob]

I have scrapped the idea of running the front tube to the next one. This would cause back pressure problems. I am now looking at all my options including putting a small block back in it.

Thanks,
Bob

[Rick Mills]

Hey patternmakerbob -
Tell ya what. Instead of advice, I'll look in my shop. I think I have a spare / near new DynoMax ceramic header for the right side of your truck. Tell me what the collector size is and if it fits, I'll give it to ya. Help me by splitting the shipping from 80117 and its yours.
I've been saving it incase I "run aground" again. Left one took a hard smack. Sometimes I forget how low I am when accessing a parking lot or something.
PM me later.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!