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#1 |
Its Magically Delicious
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: oregon
Posts: 2,398
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Look what i found today !!
Not the greatest discovery
I know patch panels would be the right thing to do ... i dont know how to weld and this is my daily driver ..so it can't be out of comission for that long i wanna get as much rust as i can removed ( wire wheel and such) .. primer and rubberize ... so it doesn't get any worst Any suggestions ??? Tips ... Am i all wrong .. let me know Peace
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71 C10 LWB 350sbc -TH350 12 bolt 3.42 Posi Of all my favorite things to do, The utmost is to have a brew. My love grows for my foamy friend, with each thirst-quenching elbow bend. Beer so frosty, smooth, and cold it's paradise pure liquid gold. Yes beer means many things to me that's all for now cus I gotta pee. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: San Jose Ca.
Posts: 3,335
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If you are looking for the quickest way to get rid of the rust then I would take it to a body shop and ask how much to cut out the rusty areas and put in patch panels. There are quite a few vendors on the board that sell them. Might be cheaper that way.
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Austin, Texas, USA
Posts: 1,628
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Using a wire wheel and primer on that isn't going to stop it from getting any worse, at least now around that kick panel area. You may slow it down a little, but not really. The area around the kick panel needs to be cut out and replaced. You could probably grind the rust out of most of the floor section, or better yet, if you could get in there with a small sand blaster, even just a bucket feed. That looks pretty pitted. If you don't get the rust out of the pits and you just cover it up with primer, it will come back in no time. Also, if you grind or wire brush that stuff, use a rust converter on it to make sure you kill it. Honestly, buy the patch panels and have somebody put them in. It'll cost more, but it will take a heck of a lot less time and it will be done right.
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'72 Chevy Blazer |
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#4 |
Sanity is a state of mind
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: New Humpshire
Posts: 93
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The CHEAPEST and EASIEST thing to do to hold the rust where it is UNTIL you have the time , money, or inclination, is to oil (hydraulic or auto tranny) the heck out of it. Rust needs oxygen to spread and oil will seal it. It does however become a pain when you do decide to do it up. I have in the past used this method in storing rusty parts and it works very well. The only reason I mention this method is that it seems that you can't do it right at this time.
Regards, KC
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67 K-10 8ft step 250/465/timken 4 shaft/373 to 1 70 C-10 Panel Vortec V/5spd BW od /307 to 1 70 C-30 9ft stepside dump 350/465/ posi and a few too many other trucks, cars, jeeps, cruisiers, and M/Cs ...o~`o |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,492
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I agree on the oil method. We have oiled our winter vehicles for years with no rust. Can be a mess at first dripping.
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#6 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lake Placid, Florida
Posts: 930
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find a rustbusters in your area. You dont have to get the panel out and they fill it with new metal. www.rustbusters.com
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#7 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: kansas city, mo.
Posts: 224
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Quote:
that looks pretty interesting. do you have personal experience with them? i wonder if it's all they say it is.
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'06 silverado (daily driver) '02 nissan sentra (wal-mart warrior) |
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#8 |
Sanity is a state of mind
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: New Humpshire
Posts: 93
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I must say rust busters method is a very sound idea. I have used spray welding before, and even though it was for a different app the principle is the same. The metal is wire fed past the electrode where it is melted and then the molten metal "sprays" onto the work fusing with the base metal. This would be very benefical in working with rust. I would assume that you would have to blast the rust off and then spray weld it. I'm not an expert by any means, but I can walk and talk at the same time.
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67 K-10 8ft step 250/465/timken 4 shaft/373 to 1 70 C-10 Panel Vortec V/5spd BW od /307 to 1 70 C-30 9ft stepside dump 350/465/ posi and a few too many other trucks, cars, jeeps, cruisiers, and M/Cs ...o~`o |
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#9 |
Special Order
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,859
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The biggest problem with"rust-out"is there`s rust on the other side,too.You either need to get to both sides and seal any seams or cut out panel and replace.Otherwise you`re just pissing into the wind.
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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