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05-21-2004, 03:24 PM | #1 |
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Location: Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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Front End Clunk
Ok, i posted a thread a like 3 weeks ago about a frontend clunk i'd get whenever I took off from a stop and occasionally going down the road and taking left turns. I jacked up the front of the truck and checked for play in the balljoints and there was none, no slop in the steering, but all the grease points looked like they haven't had any grease in a while so I greased them up and continued looking. checked for a crack on the steering box mounting point cause i heard they tend to develop them, tho i'm not sure if that's for 2wd or for 4wd, but i checked anyways and didn't see one. Anyways, I set the truck back down and went on my way and it didn't clunk anymore. Well...that was 3 weeks ago and now the clunk is back. I didn't do anything but hit all the grease fitting with some grease, I really didn't think it was gonna make a difference but apparently it did.
A friend said that my control arm bushings could be shot on the drivers side, and i'm thinking that could possibly be true. We jacked the truck back up and the drivers side suspension creaked while it was going up till it was at full droop. So what do you guys think? How much would it be at a shop to get the control arm bushings fixed? Thanks for any info.
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Paul D. '78 C20 Scottsdale 350ci 3 speed with granny gear 14 bolt rearend My trucks are "Car-Guy safe".......which pretty much means death trap in the hands of a normal civilian. |
05-21-2004, 03:57 PM | #2 |
You get what you pay for
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Location: Cherryville, NC
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Don't know what a shop would charge but you can rest assured it will cost a bunch to have it done. It's not that hard to replace them yourself. Do you have knowledge on replacing ball joints and stuff? Read this.
http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...n/frontend.htm
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Mike 1985 Chevy C-10 |
05-21-2004, 04:25 PM | #3 |
drag body or die
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Redneck country
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As for the steering box problem, its common on both 2wd and 4wd. I have a 79 BBC (factory) and my frame is ripped alllll up. A friend with a 78 and a 350 did the same thing.
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-Bobby- |
05-21-2004, 04:50 PM | #4 |
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i don't like either responses..lol I have experience with doing balljoints and such. But I don't have access to a spot to work on it like that now that i moved into an apartment that strictly forbids working on cars in the parking lot. I could maybe do it at a friends house, but it kinda looks like a long procedure and I wouldn't be able to leave my truck at my friends house. Looks like I might be paying to have this done *sigh* I know it'll probably cost close to 1,000 bucks too....i wish you guys lived closer...it's like no ones from wisconsin in this board..lol
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Paul D. '78 C20 Scottsdale 350ci 3 speed with granny gear 14 bolt rearend My trucks are "Car-Guy safe".......which pretty much means death trap in the hands of a normal civilian. |
05-21-2004, 06:00 PM | #5 |
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Location: Liège , Belgium
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I would also check the two U-shaped bolts that hold your lower arms on each side .
We came back from France with my friends Chevy G20 , we had also a "Clunk" in the front end , we came safe at his home , but a few days after that , that U-bolt went south , while he was driving at 50 MPH , he almost wetted his pants when it happened the Baron
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1982 Suburban 2WD , 260ci Olds engine,TH400 , will get a 1979 front clip , might be ready in ... 2016 1985 Chevy Van ( 305/350 ) , "Kellogg" equipped , my actual D.D. 1960 Girl Friend , frame still good , body has some dents |
05-21-2004, 10:16 PM | #6 |
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I don't think a front rebuild would be close to $1000! I'm thinking more like $250-500. Depending one where it's done and what kind of bushings you use.
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Robert Current: 1986 SWB Silverado 4.3 / TH400 Past: 1985 SWB Silverado 305 / TH350 - sold 1995 1987 1/2 ton Silverado - FI 350 / 700R4 sold 2007 |
05-24-2004, 01:05 AM | #7 | |
Insert Witty Text Here
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, TX
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Quote:
My front end made no noise before I rebuilt it, but it was really loose. Now it is really tight, but I have a similar noise. I only get it when I turn sharply to the left. I can't find anything loose. It is going to drive me crazy trying to find it... Slonaker |
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05-22-2004, 11:35 AM | #8 |
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if c&c is right, those prices aren't so bad, i could swing that. I just want a stock rebuild, it's not a performance or offroad truck.
Get this...i went out lastnight and drove the truck to a friends house to hang out and there was no clunk....get in this morning and drive to get cigs and the clunk is back...wish it would make up it's mind on whether its gonna stay or go away.
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Paul D. '78 C20 Scottsdale 350ci 3 speed with granny gear 14 bolt rearend My trucks are "Car-Guy safe".......which pretty much means death trap in the hands of a normal civilian. |
05-22-2004, 12:17 PM | #9 |
drag body or die
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Location: Redneck country
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lol, LMC has "performance" bushings for the a-arms for like 80 bucks. Not sure if that is per side or both sides.
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-Bobby- |
05-25-2004, 02:12 AM | #10 |
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I'd have another look at them ball-joints. very important that you jack on the lower control arms, as close to the balljoints as possible and check one side at a time. jacking in the middle doesn't work, the springs put tension on the balljoints so you can't check them. use a big wiggle bar under the tire to check the bottom and grab the top of the wheel and yank in and out to check the top. I havn't run into alot of bushing problems yet.
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05-26-2004, 11:35 AM | #11 |
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Like I've been telling the story over the past few months...this truck has really been neglected i wouldn't be surprised if everything in the front end has to be replaced...it has the stock balljoints cause they're still riveted on. I'm thinking i'm gonna call a couple shops and price how much a frontend rebuild will cost me. As of right now, I don't have the time or the work space available to do it myself.
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Paul D. '78 C20 Scottsdale 350ci 3 speed with granny gear 14 bolt rearend My trucks are "Car-Guy safe".......which pretty much means death trap in the hands of a normal civilian. |
05-27-2004, 01:41 AM | #12 |
Parts and more parts
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Have you done the obvious and looked at where the shocks mount to the frame on the front? The Chevy trucks have a nasty problem of breaking the metal out of the frame around the mounting bolt. This will make a clunking noise when you drive the truck. The area can be repaired with a build up by using a very large and heavy washer and weld it into place, so that it holds the shock. I have seen more than one truck have this happen.
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05-27-2004, 03:30 AM | #13 |
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around here where i live they want 500.00 to do ball joints uppers an lowers..that was on my old s10 4x4 though...since i have a friend that has the tools i save alot..an hes cheap labor to..but then i have helped build his house.....
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if it aint got 4 wheels an a motor,its now worth talkin about...... if ya cant afford to buy it, then be hillbilly enough to build it, it's cheaper to build it anyway..... be a man, stand up to your women an tell them your the boss, an if she dont like that, then ask her if she needs help around the house... http://public.fotki.com/southernmutt33/ 84 GMC 454, 3/4 soon to be a dually with one ton suspension. 60 1/2, lwb stepside..for sale 98 taurus, ugliest body stlye ford ever built, but dependable family car. 73 vistaliner, cab over, newest toy, reason for turnin 3/4 into 1 ton |
05-27-2004, 06:07 PM | #14 |
drag body or die
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Location: Redneck country
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That wanted that much for an s10? the 4x4's unbolt i believe too boot.. damn.
I'm in the same boat, not clunk that i know of, but i have a 79 and its all original up front, springs, bushings, etc. and the steering box is pulling the frame apart. Let me knoww hat the parts run and what you use, i might get the same.
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-Bobby- |
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