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06-01-2004, 11:37 AM | #1 |
Custer had a plan too.
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: No. California
Posts: 344
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What actuates brake idiot light?
What actuates the idiot light for "BRAKE"? Is it fluid level, pressure, or what?
Thanks! |
06-01-2004, 11:41 AM | #2 |
Gotta Startem Early
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Amarillo, TX, USA
Posts: 364
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The "BRAKE" light comes on when you apply the e-brake. Should be a switch.
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67 SWB In Progress, one piece at a time, maybe 3 years I will be finished |
06-01-2004, 11:54 AM | #3 |
Custer had a plan too.
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: No. California
Posts: 344
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Let me be a little more specific...
This morning as I came to the first interstection on my commute I made the turn without any brakes, yikes!. I pumped the pedal and I got a little brake back. Just then the brake idiot light came on. The emergency brake was not depressed. If the idiot light is related to the emergency brake (which makes sense as all cars have lights that say when the e-brake is on, duh), is it just a coincidence that it came on after I had brake problems? |
06-01-2004, 11:57 AM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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06-01-2004, 12:01 PM | #5 |
just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
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It depends upon the year of the vehicle.
Most vehicles with a dual reservior master cylinder have a saftey valve that cuts off the fluid loss (and concentrates brake pressure) to the wheels that are still working in the event of a leak/line failure. Check for leaks/fluid level. |
06-01-2004, 12:11 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Massachusetts
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The light is activated by a loss of brake pressure, (pressure differential) between the front and rear brakes at the proportioning valve. Your light is functioning correctly, as you lost brake pressure somewhere. You need to check out your braking system, as you most likely have something that needs attention.
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06-01-2004, 01:01 PM | #7 |
Never enough time!!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: sw Wisconsin
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Sounds like you blew a brake line or wheel cylinder, better check underneath for leaks.
You can also look in the master cylinder and see if it is real low or empty in one end or the other. |
06-01-2004, 01:03 PM | #8 |
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Location: Cumming, GA
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The sensor for the light connects to the center of the proportioning valve on my '67 with manual brakes.
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06-01-2004, 01:37 PM | #9 |
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Location: Crittenden, KY
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So what ur gonna wanna do, is fill ur reservoir and put your truck on a nice clean piece of concrete or road somewhere, then cycle the pedal a whole bunch... It'll spray fluid everywhere... It'll give u a round about idea of where the leak is. Then clean it, and have someone else do it, while it sprays fluid into your eyes. Ta daa. You've found ur leak. This is how my dumbass finds leaks anyway, feel free to use my method.
Brandon |
06-01-2004, 02:01 PM | #10 |
Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
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Could also be an internal leak in the master cyl.You may not have any fluid loss,just pressure loss.Any time the pressure has a big enough difference between the front and rear side of the valve,the piston will move to block the side that is losing pressure and the light will come on.
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06-01-2004, 09:01 PM | #11 |
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On the same note then how do you reset the light to get it to go back off.
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06-01-2004, 09:23 PM | #12 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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solver, once the leak is fixed it'll reset it self after a good hard brake. At least mine did, had a bad wheel cylinder and replaced a brake line I figured after I bleed the drakes it would go out, it did noy but I went down the street and locked them up and ta da the light went out.
Also the e-brake lighting up the "brake idiot light is only on 71s and up, 70 and earlier did not come with the switch on the e-brake pedal. At least the 3 different 70 cabs I've had did not have it.(the 71 has a 70 chevy cab)
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
06-02-2004, 12:19 AM | #13 |
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the light on my '72 goes off with loss of brake pressure...NOT e-brake ???
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06-02-2004, 02:24 AM | #14 |
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Location: Texas
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Anytime my brake light light up it was from the pedal going down excessivly i had a sometime bad mastercylinder on my 85 once and when the pedal would go down generally after being stopped for awhile like at a red light the light would come on
The only way for me to get it to go off was to push the button on the prop valve that reseted it everytime its a black rubber button on one end of it and you can push it |
06-01-2004, 03:41 PM | #15 |
just can't cover up my redneck
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Columbus OH
Posts: 11,414
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flip66, only if there is no external leak. I have seen this dozens of times and it is rarely the master cylinder causing it. Not to say that they don't fail. I have seen more develop a leak down the firewall/booster than internally like that.
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