Drip Rail Shave - How To - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

pat · 07-21-2004, 11:44 AM

Im about to do this to my cab and could use some help. If anyone has done this before and can give any pointers or directions let me hear them. Pictures would be great to.

Harold Shepard · 07-21-2004, 11:53 AM

Pat if you will look at spike tv site at copperhead you will see pics of shaved rails, don know about how too's but truck will give you an idea

**raggedjim** · 07-21-2004, 12:09 PM

Unless you are good at body work, I wouldn't try it. I have seen three different cabs in the boneyard because of botched driprail shaves. If you are still set on doing it I think I have a magazine at home that has an article on it (either "Classic Trucks" or "Custom Classic Trucks"). It ain't for the timid...

Rg

67chevemall · 07-21-2004, 01:50 PM

Cut em Water won't hurt ya!

Just grinded em, when it's close and good body chisle will finish em!

barn9 · 07-21-2004, 02:52 PM

It CAN be done, but it can also become an "opening up a can of worms" situation.
Like raggedjim says, "It ain't for the timid... ".

ChevLoRay · 07-21-2004, 03:11 PM

What are there, like 2 or 3 layers of metal at that point. I think the failures that were mentioned were the prelude to an "Oh, Sh(oo)t, what have I done?" comment.

Those magazines mentioned did have an article about shaving the drip rails, but I'm just gonna live with mine. As nice as they look shaved, the trucks look nicer on the road, than trashed out in a junk yard.

cdowns · 07-21-2004, 03:53 PM

you cut off very small sections 1 at a time in 3"or less per segment then weld and grind then another section

and if you screw it up you just get a new cab

Ogier · 07-21-2004, 03:57 PM

Not to mention that the drip rail is part of the structural support of the cab in general....

NSANE68!!! · 07-21-2004, 06:21 PM

It has nothing to do with cab structure. It is just as strong when shaved. As far as I can tell it was chevys easy way out for attaching the 3 pieces of metal Cab roof skin and B pillar.
Like stated above small sections at a time, and not a small mod. Does take some skill

Red69stepside · 07-24-2004, 10:34 AM

The rails on mine are filled with dried and real hard goop of some kind, then painted. I hanven't driven it in the rain yet, but I think there's so much of this stuff the rail might just pour out over the edge anyway.

I'd like to fix it if there' s a sure way to do it.

*19CHEVY68CST* · 07-22-2004, 01:50 PM

I think that it looks soo sweet and clean. Grind small sections at a time and bring a welder. The end result is a clean smooth cab.

ol skool 68 · 07-22-2004, 06:38 PM

i have the sides done around the doors, but haven'
t started the part over the windsheild, does the same technique apply there too?

*19CHEVY68CST* · 07-23-2004, 12:17 PM

My advise is to follow the lines and get as close as you can. There will be some grinding you will have to do. Use a cutting wheel and then a grinding wheel to grind down the high spots. Then weld up any imperfections.

**FRENCHBLUE72** · 07-24-2004, 04:58 PM

You may want to get ahold of board memeber lotik he shaved his drip rail's and has been really good about helping me out with hundred's of question's .... Lotik does seem to hang out on piston's site more than here though...

ol skool 68 · 07-24-2004, 05:36 PM

could you give the address to piston's site please

**john** · 07-24-2004, 05:41 PM

Here it is.

http://www.myoldtruck.com/forums/index.php

ol skool 68 · 07-24-2004, 05:51 PM

thanx john!!

**FRENCHBLUE72** · 07-25-2004, 10:20 AM

If your gonna be on piston's site you may also want to ask XXL and PIERCESPART'S for advise as they seem to be really knowledgable on metal fab..

sactoC10 · 07-25-2004, 11:17 AM

Isn't this hardened goop looking stuff part of the factory installation?

Dick Dale · 07-25-2004, 11:36 AM

Yes, the goop is a sealer. You can clean it out for painting and then just apply a small bead of sealer. Mine is damn near to the top of the rail and when my dad bought the truck years ago, it was rust free. I know that it was factory.

Red69stepside · 07-26-2004, 02:47 PM

I know I got rust. there's some small spots on the top and bottom of the rail, and a spot just above the inside windshield.

Dick Dale: How would I clean the goop out? the stuff is HARD.

pat · 07-27-2004, 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red69stepside

I know I got rust. there's some small spots on the top and bottom of the rail, and a spot just above the inside windshield.

Dick Dale: How would I clean the goop out? the stuff is HARD.

I used a screw drive and hammer and just chiseled all of mine out.

Thanks for the input so far everybody. Im still going to do it sometime, no matter how hard it is. Nobody has pics?

67chevemall · 07-27-2004, 02:55 PM

there is 3 pics at the top!

pat · 07-27-2004, 03:30 PM

Sorry, Ill be more specific. Does anyone have pics of the work in progress or cut apart drip rail pics?

Red69stepside · 07-27-2004, 06:15 PM

That would be a great thing to have!

07-21-2004, 11:44 AM	#1
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	Drip Rail Shave - How To Im about to do this to my cab and could use some help. If anyone has done this before and can give any pointers or directions let me hear them. Pictures would be great to. __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

07-21-2004, 12:09 PM	#3
raggedjim Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Murray, Kentucky Posts: 3,450	Unless you are good at body work, I wouldn't try it. I have seen three different cabs in the boneyard because of botched driprail shaves. If you are still set on doing it I think I have a magazine at home that has an article on it (either "Classic Trucks" or "Custom Classic Trucks"). It ain't for the timid... Rg __________________ Roger '68 Short step - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=849675 '69 ('70?) 2wd Blazer '70 GMC Jimmy 2wd '73 Firebird - https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=853203

07-21-2004, 01:50 PM	#4
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	Cut em Water won't hurt ya! Just grinded em, when it's close and good body chisle will finish em! __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD Last edited by 67chevemall; 07-09-2010 at 02:29 PM.

07-21-2004, 02:52 PM	#5
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	It CAN be done, but it can also become an "opening up a can of worms" situation. Like raggedjim says, "It ain't for the timid... ". __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

07-21-2004, 03:11 PM	#6
ChevLoRay Old Skool Club Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas" Posts: 10,880	What are there, like 2 or 3 layers of metal at that point. I think the failures that were mentioned were the prelude to an "Oh, Sh(oo)t, what have I done?" comment. Those magazines mentioned did have an article about shaving the drip rails, but I'm just gonna live with mine. As nice as they look shaved, the trucks look nicer on the road, than trashed out in a junk yard. __________________ Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was.

07-21-2004, 11:53 AM	#2
Harold Shepard Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Canton North Carolina Posts: 466	Pat if you will look at spike tv site at copperhead you will see pics of shaved rails, don know about how too's but truck will give you an idea

07-21-2004, 03:53 PM	#7
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	you cut off very small sections 1 at a time in 3"or less per segment then weld and grind then another section and if you screw it up you just get a new cab __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

07-21-2004, 03:57 PM	#8
Ogier Chopper/Painter Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Medford, Or. Posts: 284	Not to mention that the drip rail is part of the structural support of the cab in general....

07-21-2004, 06:21 PM	#9
NSANE68!!! SLICER AND DICIER Join Date: May 2001 Location: Quuen Creek Posts: 1,383	It has nothing to do with cab structure. It is just as strong when shaved. As far as I can tell it was chevys easy way out for attaching the 3 pieces of metal Cab roof skin and B pillar. Like stated above small sections at a time, and not a small mod. Does take some skill Attached Images __________________ 01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's 68 chevy money pit 51 chevy belair 95 Honda 900RR 05 GMC Siearra (company truck)

07-24-2004, 10:34 AM	#10
Red69stepside Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Washougal, WA Posts: 110	The rails on mine are filled with dried and real hard goop of some kind, then painted. I hanven't driven it in the rain yet, but I think there's so much of this stuff the rail might just pour out over the edge anyway. I'd like to fix it if there' s a sure way to do it. __________________ 69 Stepside. Rebuilt 327, HT 350 tranny, Holley carb, Edelbrook intake; Flowmaster dual 2.5-inch exhaust.

07-22-2004, 01:50 PM	#11
19CHEVY68CST Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: WASHINGTON STATE Posts: 40	I think that it looks soo sweet and clean. Grind small sections at a time and bring a welder. The end result is a clean smooth cab.

07-22-2004, 06:38 PM	#12
ol skool 68 turnin wrenches Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: my garage Posts: 263	i have the sides done around the doors, but haven' t started the part over the windsheild, does the same technique apply there too? __________________ "three can keep a secret if two are dead" -unknown hell's angel- D.M.C. -FF- 68 SWB full frame off (project ol skool) 2000 s-10 formally bagged but now my daily driver...

07-23-2004, 12:17 PM	#13
19CHEVY68CST Account Suspended Join Date: May 2004 Location: WASHINGTON STATE Posts: 40	My advise is to follow the lines and get as close as you can. There will be some grinding you will have to do. Use a cutting wheel and then a grinding wheel to grind down the high spots. Then weld up any imperfections.

07-24-2004, 04:58 PM	#14
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,592	You may want to get ahold of board memeber lotik he shaved his drip rail's and has been really good about helping me out with hundred's of question's .... Lotik does seem to hang out on piston's site more than here though...

07-24-2004, 05:36 PM	#15
ol skool 68 turnin wrenches Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: my garage Posts: 263	could you give the address to piston's site please __________________ "three can keep a secret if two are dead" -unknown hell's angel- D.M.C. -FF- 68 SWB full frame off (project ol skool) 2000 s-10 formally bagged but now my daily driver...



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07-24-2004, 05:41 PM	#16
john member #16 Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Yuba City Ca. Posts: 3,618	Here it is. http://www.myoldtruck.com/forums/index.php __________________ john http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showgroups.php board vendors http://www.flickr.com/photos/1745471...7602865984234/

07-24-2004, 05:51 PM	#17
ol skool 68 turnin wrenches Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: my garage Posts: 263	thanx john!! __________________ "three can keep a secret if two are dead" -unknown hell's angel- D.M.C. -FF- 68 SWB full frame off (project ol skool) 2000 s-10 formally bagged but now my daily driver...

07-25-2004, 10:20 AM	#18
FRENCHBLUE72 PROJECT 7DEUCE Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: GRANTS PASS OR Posts: 21,592	If your gonna be on piston's site you may also want to ask XXL and PIERCESPART'S for advise as they seem to be really knowledgable on metal fab..

07-25-2004, 11:17 AM	#19
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	hard goop stuff Isn't this hardened goop looking stuff part of the factory installation? __________________ 5/4 drop LWB wood bed - 15x8 front 235/60 - 15x10 rear 295/50 2003 FORD Escape 1998 Honda VTR1000

07-25-2004, 11:36 AM	#20
Dick Dale Excelsior, You Fathead. Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Valparaiso, In Posts: 937	Yes, the goop is a sealer. You can clean it out for painting and then just apply a small bead of sealer. Mine is damn near to the top of the rail and when my dad bought the truck years ago, it was rust free. I know that it was factory. __________________ Go Navy. The Sea Is Ours. Budget 350 Build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...38#post2264638

07-26-2004, 02:47 PM	#21
Red69stepside Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Washougal, WA Posts: 110	I know I got rust. there's some small spots on the top and bottom of the rail, and a spot just above the inside windshield. Dick Dale: How would I clean the goop out? the stuff is HARD. __________________ 69 Stepside. Rebuilt 327, HT 350 tranny, Holley carb, Edelbrook intake; Flowmaster dual 2.5-inch exhaust.

07-27-2004, 02:55 PM	#23
67chevemall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: NB Posts: 3,367	there is 3 pics at the top! __________________ 1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD

07-27-2004, 03:30 PM	#24
pat Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Lindsay, TX Posts: 1,245	Sorry, Ill be more specific. Does anyone have pics of the work in progress or cut apart drip rail pics? __________________ 68 Chevy 383/350 w/shift kit, 380hp/425ft-lbs, 4.5/5 drop, 17" TT2s 64 Cadillac Sedan DeVille

07-27-2004, 06:15 PM	#25
Red69stepside Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Washougal, WA Posts: 110	That would be a great thing to have! __________________ 69 Stepside. Rebuilt 327, HT 350 tranny, Holley carb, Edelbrook intake; Flowmaster dual 2.5-inch exhaust.

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