I've Had It (charging System!!!!!)

[69 Short Fleet]

W T F is going on here!!!!!!! My battery keeps draining, I just bought and installed

- New Bosch 55 amp alt.
- New external voltage reg.
- New pos. battery cable
- New neg. battery cable
- New alt. belt
- New yellow top Optima battery (12.6 volts)
- New points
- New condenser
- New cap & 8mm plug wires

EVERYTHING is grounded PROPERLY! I pulled the neg. cable to see if there was any voltage between the terminal and the cable and NOTHING!!! (no shorts) I have almost had it with this problem as this is the third time in a row the pig has acted up, the only thing I can think of is getting the battery tested at the shop where I bought it. I should also mention that some "Pillar Of The Community" Vandalized some of my elec system when it was in storage during my resto, but all I could find was a cut off alt. connector (which I already repaired) and a couple of plug wires cut (which I already replaced) I really could use any and all ideas here. Thanks Doug

[1BadSS]

See if anything is stuck in the on position, i.e headlights / wiper / lighter (not sure if our trucks came with them, mine doesnt have one).

[shuttermutt]

If you're not getting ANY draw when you put a meter between the neg cable and the net post then it (almost) has to be the battery. How fast is it draining?

[Martin64]

For me it was the horn relay that was staying open.....just enough to drain the battery in about 2 1/2 days

[69 Short Fleet]

I went for a drive for @ 45 min. and just before I left I had 12.6 volts (engine off) at the battery and it flashed right up, I checked the voltage again at the battery (engine running) and it was the same 12.6 volts. So it would lead me to believe that the charging sys. is not working as it should be around 14 or 15 volts. As I went for my drive I was watching everything (battery gauge, headlight, taillight brightness, dome light brightness, turn signal speed, ect.) like a hawk, and noticed after @ 20 - 30 min. the turn signal speed was slower and my lighting sys. was dimmer so I headed for home and when I got home I shut the truck off and tried to start it again and nothing (starter was silent). A few days ago (the first time it acted up) I was driving along and noticed I hardly had any headlights and then the engine started to run really bad so I immediatley shut the headlights off and the truck ran normal again. I'm so PO right now, I don't know maybe my new alt. whoooped right from the factory? Doug

[67cst]

hey doug, thats a major bummer with the truck, i wish i knew what to say, i hate wiring problems....so you replaced that alternator? are you going to buff the new one up? or put the old one back on when you find the problem

[69 Short Fleet]

Hi Derek: Ya I'm going to keep the new alt. on as it has more amps but I'm not gonna polish it (the old one took crazy hours to do). I was at Wards Elec. (just off of Springfield) the other day and they had a 100amp (one wire) Powermaster (chrome one) I almost bought, it was $200 (not too bad) and the plating on it is really nice but decided to go with a Bosch 55 amp from Lordco $75 with my discount. Stop by on the weekend if you can, Regards Doug

[racedvl]

If you bought a bosch alt, chances are it is junk. . . . .

I work at a jobber supplier that used to sell Bosch electrical units, but we dropped then all together because the defective rate through the roof!!!!!

[chevman-67]

have you thought about changing to an internal alt.I did and i dont regret it. Seems i have better power in my charging system, brighter lights nothing dims down anymore when i come to a stop. I have a 105 amp and it runs my truck my neons underneathand my sony explode deck and amp all with ease.unless you want to keep stock i would change. only my thoughts. if you need info just ask.by the way check and make sure all your insulators are on your regulator on the rad support they are notorious for rotting off.

[Longhorn Man]

I have to agree with the last two statements, Bosh alt never seem to work. (NAPA ones are just as bad...brobably the same maker)
I would swap over to a later model int reg unit, more amps even with the smaller 64 amp unit, better charging, and less headache.
Personally, i say stay away from the one wire units, they have some draw backs that most ppl don't talk about including cost, parts avalability, and pully ratio/rev issues.

[stllookn]

You have it right on the bad alternator if you are not getting 14.5 on the battery after start. It could be the excite wire to the alternator that is bad. I bought a truck (that had been vandalized) that had the same problem...battery dying after a short period of time. The price was really low and I could not figure out why until the second time the battery died without provocation. I traced the problem to the loose wire on the ignition switch that provides 12v. to the alternator excite field. Solved the problem without and expense and then realized why the price was so low...he could not figure it out and never mentioned it when I bought the vehicle. I think he thought it had demons or something. I wished I had run into him again just so I could tell him what a great deal he gave me...full disclosure is usually best!

[69 Short Fleet]

racedvl - Interesting about Bosch, I thought they made decent stuff, my bro used to have a few Porsches and they had Bosch componets (it sounds like the company has gone downhill) back in the 70's, 80"s

chevyman-67 - I'm not concerned about keeping my truck stock as it is not a factory restortation. I will be adding a couple of stereo amps (Pioneer) later on so I'm thinking I should have at least a 100 amp anyway.

- Andy, your Back!!! AWESOME!!! What year of truck is the alt. your talking about and should I maybe look at a Delco...

- stllookin, Yes I know what you mean about some people not coming clean when there selling ... I bought a dragbike once that loved to eat camshafts and the owner "forgot" to mention it. (bonehead) What color is the exciter wire that goes to the ignition (just so I'm clear on it)

Thanks for all your input this helps!!! Doug

[Robert1970C20rstbukt]

I'm running the original Delco Remy alternator on mine and the only problem I've had was the voltage regulator going bad, might replace that if yours is an external regulated alternator.

[srosa707]

IM havin the same damn problem, i cant fuigure it out either... let me know how you end up solving this one...

[69 Short Fleet]

This problem will just not go away! I go back to the parts store and return the new alternator for another new alt. and the 2nd alt. is not putting out either!!! So I triple check the voltage and it is 12.15 volts at the battery and at the alternator, should be enough voltage you would think right? WRONG, WRONG, WRONG!!!!! I just brought my battery back to where I bought it and 12.15 volts is @ 40 % of the battery's capacity!!! This is how DC voltage on the battery works

12.60 DCV = 100 % Charge
12.40 DCV = 75 % Charge
12.20 DCV = 50 % Charge
12.00 DCV = 25 % Charge

What I think is going on is the charging system is working fine it is just that the BATTERY VOLTAGE (at 12.15 volts) is too low for the charging system. So I will pick up my battery tommorow afternoon (charged up to 12.6 volts) and install it and post how I made out. Another thing I've learned about Optima is they like to be in a cold enviroment (I pulled mine and stored it inside the house for the winter). Doug

[kbs71]

Alright guys I had this same problem and it's usually the external voltage regulator. The "buzzer" points system is really antiquated and it seems that everyone making them now days is junk. It senses low voltage from a "buss" location (4 red wires and a brown one soldered together at the left front fender area in the harness), and has the altenator put out 14.7 volts to charge the battery. Sometimes the points stick or weld themselves together and the altenator won't charge. If you replaced your altenator and still having the same problems open up the regulator and check the points. You'll probably find them welded together with a little ball of metal. you can file this off and it will start working again, BUT I guarentee that it will happen again. I bought a internally regulated CS12 altenator (96amp from auto zone $69.00) and a mod kit from www.madelectrical.com for @ $24.00. The guy Mike really knows his stuff. His web site is full of some really informative articals about the charging systems on older GM cars/trucks.
After installing his kit, which took me @ 2 hrs. to fab up and another 4 hrs to install (I'm kinda a perfectionist). I have not had a single problem with my charging system. Where before I was constantly getting stranded.

Anyway check it out his prices are reasonable and he has a lot of neat parts, and he will be glad to discuss anything over the phone and he gives expert advise.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

69 Short Fleet,

I know you said that everything is grounded but I would still check to make sure the external regulator has good ground, (check the regulator case to the negative battery post). Should read less than .5 ohms. Also, check the voltage of the exciter wire with the engine off and the engine running to make sure you have voltage there.

Jim

[72CheyenneRY]

I burned through four sets of alternators/regulators/batteries until I changed over to an internal regulator. I also had an arc in the power lead to the starter that was slapping the block/header (while moving - no problems sitting still!) and shorting out the regulator. I completely feel your pain!!

[Blue68]

Remember guys, don't hook a new alternator up to a dead battery. It'll kill the alternator. They can't charge a dead battery. Charge the battery with a charger first. If it won't hold that charge then obviously the battery is dead.