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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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Changed alt. (another new one) and it has the same voltage as my battery 12.2 volts I have gone through absolutley everything I can think of........ One other thing I should mention is my idiot lights in the (brake & Battery) will not light up (bulbs are OK I'm going out to check voltage right now), my gas gauge is intermittant and my backup lights dont work.
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#2 |
get up! stand up!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: austin,tx
Posts: 345
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jusy my 2cents--make sure to check ALL GRDS. also i had a real nightmare locating an electrical problem w/my 67 c-10 and i finally (after months of frustration as the problem was intermitten) traced it to the grd block inside the engine compartment on the inner passenger side fender directly next to the battery. the connections there i was tightening but the nut would always back off and become just loose enough to cause some strange things to happen. i replaced the nut, reterminated the connections and have had zero problems since. also you should try replacing the pickup wire from the battery to this connection block as this is simple & cheap and if that wire is wrong guage or has a "high" open in it it will cause wierd stuff as well. just my 2cents. hope maybe that can help. ps check ALL GRDS.
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9FT STEPSIDE CLUB 40 1-1/2 ton stake 67 c30 disassembled & for sale 70 gmc 3500 canadian 9 foot "fenderside" pickup 06 silverado 71 vet enjoyed by my retired father ![]() wtb-67 chevy 1 ton 9ft stepside-in perfect condition |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brookings, SD
Posts: 10,497
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Start all over with the wiring. Don't remove it all and replace it but check every wire. Run an ohmmeter on them to be sure that you don't have a broken wire. Make sure they are all hooked up correctly. Basically start with the basics again and go slow.
When it something causing you this many problems it's probably something cheap to fix but hard to find.
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Some people are like slinkies, they aren't good for anything, but you can't help but smile when you see one tumble down the stairs. |
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#4 |
i love summertime
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Kelowna BC
Posts: 4,303
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doug, stick with it ! i had some wiring nightmares with my truck too, but we finally did get it, also--sorry i didnt stop by this past weekend, it was pretty hectic right from friday when i got off to last night when i hit the hay...ill come by one of these days to say hi,
Derek
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1967 shortbox stepside Chevy, 365 hp 327, th400. GLOVE BOX LIGHTS FORSALE, click link for info http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=273724 |
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#5 |
get up! stand up!
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: austin,tx
Posts: 345
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71swb is right on..your problem is most likely very simple and very hard to find. stick with it and remind yourself that you love your truck. take it one step at a time and quit or take a long break if you get frustrated.
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9FT STEPSIDE CLUB 40 1-1/2 ton stake 67 c30 disassembled & for sale 70 gmc 3500 canadian 9 foot "fenderside" pickup 06 silverado 71 vet enjoyed by my retired father ![]() wtb-67 chevy 1 ton 9ft stepside-in perfect condition |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Orange County Cali
Posts: 258
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In my days of electrical trouble, polarizing is the most commonly overlooked task! also the voltage regulator going bad will do the same thing, only your battery will get really hot. mine almost melted!
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64 caravelle camper 58 Vert bug 64 SS nova for sale 14k http://www.stevesnovasite.com/forums...ad.php?t=46362 Wanted: any early V.Ws any condition! |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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Thanks for all the encouragement guys! I ABSOLUTLEY REFUSE to loose this battle or pay someone to fix it for me (LOL) I'm startin fresh again tommorow, Regards Doug
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#8 |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, Mississippi
Posts: 1,937
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I would pull all the fuses and run an ammeter across the terminals to determine wich circuit was pulling amps with the key off. If there is no draw at the fuse block at least this narrows it down to the voltage regulator, alternator or starter. You can even run the ammeter between the pos bat cable and battery terminal to deternine amount of current flowing, or between any suspect component. Make sure your ammeter can handle the expected amperage draw. Probably will. Slow leak.
Hope this helps. Rich
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The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!! |
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#9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: central pa
Posts: 1,525
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It really sounds like your grounds are screwed up. With the red wire off the alternator engine running measure the voltage output of the alternator from the case to the terminal the red wire came off, then measure from the frame, Then measure from the rad support if there is any difference it is a grounding issue. Did you replace the voltage reg with a solid state unit of OEM relay unit? just my $.02
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72 longhorn c30 502BB/th400/fact air/4.11rear/ custom camper 72 bug(the better half's) under reconstruction 2009 HHR aqua blue 71 GMC k20 350/sm465 2009 Chevy hd3500 6.6 Victory Red crew cab dually Dave & Jeanne |
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#10 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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-chickenwing, I already tried checking each and every fuse terminal location (with the fuse pulled) and found no voltage (key in off position), also I have a new external voltage regulator and I even tried it with the old one (I'm sure its good as I took the cover off and both coils look fine and the contacts look fine as well).
-Dave, I will try what you mentioned, I also installed a 10 ga. ground wire from the rad support to the frame and have checked continuity on all grounds and checked all wiring circuts for continuity. You guys are probably right though, its simple.... just hard to find. Doug |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
Posts: 2,410
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I seem to remember the horn relay was a common culprit that caused a lot of grounding problems with these trucks. Did you search the archives for previous posts on battery charging problems? You should be reading at least 13.8 V across the battery when running. I went thru the same problems years ago. A friend (mechanic) and I did all the troubleshooting and still couldn't find the loss of charging voltage. Replaced battery, voltage regulator and rebuilt alternator and was still only getting negative voltage (~11 volts) across the battery when running. The quick and dirty solution was to bypass all the systems that might have ground faults by running a heavy wire from the back of the alternator directly to the positive battery post. Everything worked fine after that.
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1970 GMC 1500 Custom Original 350/TH350 Victoria, BC, Canada You can wish in one hand and crap in the other. See which one gets filled first. Last edited by Southpa; 08-04-2004 at 08:22 AM. |
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#12 | |
Lovin' Life in Miss.!
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Puckett, Mississippi
Posts: 1,937
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Quote:
If you pull the fuse and hook an ammeter across both sides (help me with this guys,been awhile, in series?) you can see if there is current draw throught the fuse. If you find a fuse terminal with current running through it: you then isolate each component in that circuit pull, its power wire and hook up your ammeter between the power wire and the component and look for the current draw. Doing it this way you can quickly isolate if it is a fused circuit or before the fuse block. Hope this helps. Rich
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The truck... you hear that? No really, you did hear that?!!! |
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 80
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They're a little hard to follow, too technical, but if you read closely you can understand the term of "remote voltage sensing".
I have some experience with Industrial and residental electronics and I have struggled with it also, just this past week in fact! My problem stemmed from grounding out the low pressure switch on the back of my new Vintage Air unit to the firewall. I had wired the unit for switched supply voltage from the fuseblock and when it shorted it burned the brown wire leading to the back of the ignition switch in two. ![]() ![]() Hang in there it will come to you just try to take it slow and methodical. ![]() http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml http://www.powermastermotorsports.co...ternators.html This site has very anoying pop-ups so I list it last! http://63novass.tripod.com/diagrams.htm
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1967 C10 Short,Step 283\1460 Holley HEI Ign. Borg Warner T56 6 Speed! A-1 Electric life pwr windows PS,PB,Tilt 275\60R'S on Alum Mags all around Vintage Air A\C Grey cloth Buckets ![]() |
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Gainesville, Fl
Posts: 382
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WOW!!!! yes I love doing this!! I just had this same problem (like this morning) my charging system was all messed up, three new alternators, 2 new batteries, a new starter, and still the same thing no charge. VOLTAGE REGULATOR get a new one and all problems solved.
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Man I need another 67-72!!! ![]() |
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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OoooooKkkkkkk: I think I'm understanding now, I was measuring DC voltage between the fuse terminals at the fusebox when I should be measuring DC amperage (current) at the same location to determine which leg of my elec sys. is the trouble maker, is that correct? Also I checked the charging sys with my battery charged up (13.2 volts) and it still is not working so I'm going to look into it somemore right now, Thanks VERY much for all your helps guys, Doug
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Salem , Oregon 97301
Posts: 1,796
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Did you check your voltage regulator ?
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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jose, I bought a new one hooked it up and nothing (alt is putting out 0 I am getting slightly less DC voltage than my battery) My battery has 13.20 DCV engine off and I'm getting 12.80 DCV at the battery & Alt. with engine running, I then reinstalled the old one (pulled the cover off and the primary & secondary coils look fine as well as the contact arms and contacts) and tried the old one and it still won't work. The one odd thing is my brake light and battery light (idiot lights) in the dash do not work, the bulbs are ok but I'm going to check if for voltage to them tommorow. Also what grounds the instrument cluster? I want to check that out as well. This has now turned into a week long headache and by far the hardest thing I've ever had to fix in my life! Regards Doug
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,086
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Hang on here a cottin pickin minute!!! It just hit me like a ton of bricks... I noticed my horn relay connector was diconnected and there is a large red wire (8 or 10 Ga.) that goes into it and a green wire (same gauge) going out of it. These wires look way too large to be horn related, could it be that the main elec. splice for the truck elec. runs through the horn relay?????? I just reconnected the thing but its too late to flash up the truck tonight, I'll be checking this out first thing tommorow, this could explain a lot of things, regards Doug
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