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#1 |
Fetzer Valve Technician
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 205
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Brake kits for 72-73 4x4
I found some brake kits at SS brake, But they are for a 1973 model truck. Is there any reason why a front or rear brake kit for a 73 4x4 wouldnt work on a 72 4x4? The brake kits list the bolt pattern as a 6x5.5 so the pattern would be the same. As far as the rest of the stuff, it is all the same isnt it?
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1972 Chevy K10 SWB |
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#2 |
Fetzer Valve Technician
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 205
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Anybody?
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1972 Chevy K10 SWB |
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#3 |
The LuvShack Garage
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
Posts: 30,474
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Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T |
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#4 |
Fetzer Valve Technician
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Stillwater, OK
Posts: 205
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Sorry about that, I should have been more specific. I am looking for rotors and calipers, preferrably bigger than stock, since I am going to be running 35s.
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1972 Chevy K10 SWB |
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#5 |
The LuvShack Garage
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
Posts: 30,474
|
__________________
Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T |
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#6 |
user # 2756
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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I know on the 3/4 ton dana44 axles the rotors and calipers are the same 71-78ish. But I believe the calipers from 1/2 to 3/4 are the same ones. Have you upgraded the rear to disc? That would be a performance increase. I seen somewhere that slotted rotors are available, need to remember where. Do not know of any performance calipers, except maybe to buy from a quality manufacturer. Also, replacing stock rubber lines w/ braided stainless usually helps though you probably could not feel the difference.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm ![]() |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Broomfield, Colorado
Posts: 14
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I replaced both of my differentials out of a 78 blazer and I used the brake parts as well with no problems. If you are going to increase your rotors, BECAREFUL! You could very well scrap the inside of the wheel or mostly not be able to get you wheels on period- if you have 15" wheels. 16.5" wheels will clear for sure, but the tires are more expensive. I had 16.5" wheels on mine when I first got mine, it had 3/4 ton front calipers, they cleared fine, until I got my 15" wheels, I had to grind the tops of the calipers inorder to get my wheels on. That sucked. So I ended up changing everything out with that '78 blazer and I had no Problems.
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'72 K-10 Longbed, 4" Lift, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Trailmaster Springs(soon to be replaced), 35" Procomp Tires, Freshly Rebuilt 350, TH350, NP205, and More To Come ![]() |
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: oregon city, or
Posts: 164
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you can get more friction material by simply replacing your #52 brake pads with #153 1 ton pads. lots more pad and fits right in your 1/2 or 3/4 ton calipers.
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yeah, but how's it wheel? |
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