New guy here with a 49 chevrolet. With two questions

[indianmotocycle2001]

I would like to change out the frame. I would like to have all the newer suspension, and brakes. Also would like to change the bed for a newer step side with the rounded look. Im going for a street rod with a taste of old with the touch of new. Besides the s-10 frame is there anything else that would work, and has anybody done a bed swap that matched the old style front fenders.

[cdowns]

welcome to the board from daytona beach

as far as the frame is concerned i believe art morrison offers a modern frame with all up to date options includeing independant rear suspension pricey aroung 10k when alls said and done/ there's many companies that have kits for the pinto front suspension for your original frame

[Tx Firefighter]

My 50 model is on an S-10 frame. It's a good swap, you might consider looking into it.

[inline6Bill]

RB's here in Glendale, AZ makes frames for that year truck.
www.rbsauto.com

[chevytruckfan]

I kept my frame because I didn't want to mess with relocating the body mounts. I used a 71 chevy complete truck suspention (front with disk brakes, motor mounts, and steering components and rear a 12 bolt posi) that will bolt right to the original frame. All for $150 Unless your frame is damaged beyond repair this is the cheapest and easiest (no welding required). If you find a donor truck you can get everything you need. Mine didn't so all I got was suspension and steering.

[indianmotocycle2001]

Hey chevtruckfan Did u have to drill holes to bolt in the new front end and motormounts?. And did u reused the old rear leaf springs. Also mine is a 3600 or 3/4 ton will that make a different? thanks for any help

[chevytruckfan]

Yes you have to drill new holes once you have everything lined up. I marked the frame where the centerline of the old front axle crossed as a reference then mocked it up to the frame to make sure the wheels where centered in the fenders. I also made a cardboard pattern from the frame of the donor truck so the holes would be in the correct distance from each other. Once you are satisfied that everything lines up, fits right, and is square then drill 7-8 holes for your crossmember. From here is a bolt in installation. As for the rear, 3/4ton should be the same as long as you have leaf springs. I unbolted the U-bolts or however your original axle is mounted to get the torque tube rear from the springs. I left the springs attached to the frame, but it can be done either way (leave the rear attached to the springs, unbolt the springs and remove from the truck as a unit). But since I reused my rear springs I left them in. On the new axle you will have to remove the spring pads with a torch or cutoff tool. For the coil rear end they are mounted at an angle not perpendicular. You will have to get new spring to axle mounts but are only about $20. Once you are ready to mount the new rear, set the rear on the springs with the mount in between, and use NEW u-bolts and plate (I got a kit from a local rod shop for about $65 that had bolts, plates, and spring to axle pads) to tighten down. Don't worry about welding the spring pads until you have your pinion angle set just leave it with the u-bolts holding it down for now. Any more questions let me know.

[chevytruckfan]

Here is an article to help with your swap.

Here is the article for the rear end swap.