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09-30-2004, 12:17 PM | #1 |
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700R4 swap
What parts do I need to swap a 700R4 transmission in place of a 69 TH350 on a 69 small block? As I understand it, the 700R4 will bolt in place of the th350 and use the same yoke, I just may need to move the crossmember a little. I guess the 700R4 is only 1/16 or 1/8 inch longer than a th350 with a long tailshaft, so I won't need a different drive shaft? Do I need different shifter linkage? What years had the mechanical speedometer cable? I've been told 700r4's from 4x4's are stronger than other 700r4's but they are the same dimensions, is that true? Should I only look for fullsize truck transmissions or are camaro/firebird/s10 tranmissions ok too? How much should I expect to pay for a working 700r4? I know that's a lot of questions, but it seems like a lot of people do this swap, I just wonder how difficult it is.
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09-30-2004, 01:40 PM | #2 |
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I am pretty sure the 700r4 is 1 3/4 inches longer and you will have to shorten the driveshaft. I have a 700r4 from an 86 IROC and it has a mechanical speedo. Not sure what years have it after that though.
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09-30-2004, 02:03 PM | #3 |
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The 9 inch Turbo 350 is the same length as the 700r4 is . I've swapped a bunch of them around. Yoke and driveshaft will reuse directly
On my old trucks, I reuse the stock linkage. Only difference is that it won't pull all the way down into 1st gear with the shift lever. I use van 700r4s usually, because they kept the mechanical cable speedometer much later than pickups did. Be sure and get the TV cable geometry and adjustment dialed in properly so you don't melt your overdrive tranny down.
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09-30-2004, 02:10 PM | #4 |
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Thanks Tx, what other parts will I need if any? Isn't there a wiring plug for controlling torque converter lockup? Also, what kind of bracket(s) do I need for the tv cable. My kickdown cable is currently unhooked because the PO put on an edelbrock intake but didn't get the kickdown bracket.
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-Guff 1969 C10 LWB, 350, 700R4, 3.73 gears |
09-30-2004, 02:19 PM | #5 |
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Great topic! I will be approaching this obstacle here soon too.
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09-30-2004, 02:40 PM | #6 |
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http://207.44.196.117/vboard/showthread.php3?t=33266 Here's something from the FAQ's. I used the tv cable kit from www.700r4.com , but it is not necessary. I've got the install done but need to play some more with the tv cable....it hunts real bad between 3rd and 4th on part throttle.
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09-30-2004, 03:53 PM | #7 |
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Forget the Cameros and Firebirds unless you want to change the tail shaft.
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10-10-2004, 10:56 AM | #8 |
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How about late 80's-early 90's Caprice's?
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10-10-2004, 01:12 PM | #9 |
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I was thinking that you need to stay below '86 or so to avoid computers. BTW, I have to change my yoke in switching from a 3speed to the 700r4. New tranny has 30 teeth, old had 8. The drive shaft will have to be shortened 1.5 inches or so, and that's with my engine in the forward position.
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10-10-2004, 01:22 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Look in Vans and Suburbans for your new trans. They used cable type speedometers much later than pickup trucks did. No computer controlled 700R4 transmissions until 1992 or 93, depending on application. Then, it was called a 4L60E and has a huge wiring harness that plugs into the transmission.
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10-10-2004, 07:07 PM | #11 |
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You will need the metric bolts for such items as the torque converter, trans mount to tail housing and nut for linkage stud.
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10-10-2004, 07:24 PM | #12 |
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Great topic. Even if you have a trans with the elect speedo you can swap out the parts from an older 700R4 with a mechanical speedo and make it work. I saw a thread on here or somewhere about it. To enable shifting into all of the gears all you have to do is check where the rod coming from the column attaches into the cross shaft and drill another hole about a 1/2" closer to the selector shaft and attach your rod into it. This changes the geometry (the angle of the dangle) and will give you more swing with your shifter and you can get all the gears. If you have an older 700R4 with the rear mount cast into the tailshaft housing you can use the turbo 400 position to mount your rear crossmember. Most of the later 700's have the mount in the trans case directly behind the pan and you will have to drill new holes in the frame using this mount.Hope this helps.
Mike
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10-10-2004, 08:33 PM | #13 |
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hold the phone on not hooking up the tv cable, it controls the amount of pressure to the plates and clutches- not hooking it up or not getting it right will cause a really early departure of trans. also there is the matter of the lockup torque converter if not wired up it will not lockup in od which also kills it because it will not cool enough! thats a quote from my trans expert friend! you can get the parts to make it lockup cheaply or buy the kit for around $70
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10-10-2004, 09:41 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
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10-10-2004, 10:43 PM | #15 |
its all about the +6 inches
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There is quite a bit written in the FAQ on this topic...more in detail than listed on this thread...and some links with real good reading. Enough to keep you ocupied for the rest of the evening.
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10-11-2004, 08:51 AM | #16 |
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GSFMECH,
Good one on drilling the hole for the selector 1/2" up from the original spot to allow shifting down into 1st gear. I've been reading for weeks, but I've not heard a solution for that yet.
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10-11-2004, 11:37 AM | #17 |
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Just wondering if anyone has had any trouble with the 700r4 tranny hitting the flange at the bottom of the cab firewall? I did a test fit, and my cab was sitting on the tranny. Looked to be about 1/2 inch too high.
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10-11-2004, 05:09 PM | #18 |
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I have heard about someone else having that problem with the firewall hittting the tranny. Is you Motor in the 6 CYL position ? I think that's where you run into the problem or mabye just the odd cab was built a little bit diffirent.
How is your truck coming along ? Later , Mario
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10-11-2004, 05:34 PM | #19 |
its all about the +6 inches
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is it a big block engine in a small block truck? How are the cab mounts?
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10-11-2004, 06:04 PM | #20 |
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I but a BB and a 700R4 in a low hump cab and have lots of room.
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10-11-2004, 06:10 PM | #21 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Which towers did you use, the 67 - 71, or the 72 towers...did you use the tranny mount spacer that keeps the drive shaft geomitry in line, or did you mount it directly to the cross member. Was it a 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive, or something else?
Lots of variables in the big block fitting in a low hump cab. |
10-11-2004, 06:14 PM | #22 | |
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Quote:
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10-11-2004, 06:16 PM | #23 |
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Its a 1/2 ton LWB with coils. Used 72 mounts. And useda turbo 350 trans mount I think. No real problems. Used original cross member just muved it a little and drilled new holes. As fare as im concerned its a streight bolt in.
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10-11-2004, 06:41 PM | #24 | ||
its all about the +6 inches
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Quote:
Quote:
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10-11-2004, 07:14 PM | #25 |
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I've used 67-71 mounts on mine with plenty of room. Every truck I've ever owned has been a small hump truck. There is plenty of room even with a 700R4.
If it's hitting, you need to look at replacing your cab mounts. When I first put my 454 into my low hump truck I have now, it hit the bottom of the cab. New cab mounts raised it right up. Now, I can slide my hand between the trans and cab in all spots. Yes, I run the trans mount spacer too.
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