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Old 09-30-2004, 12:17 PM   #1
Guff
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700R4 swap

What parts do I need to swap a 700R4 transmission in place of a 69 TH350 on a 69 small block? As I understand it, the 700R4 will bolt in place of the th350 and use the same yoke, I just may need to move the crossmember a little. I guess the 700R4 is only 1/16 or 1/8 inch longer than a th350 with a long tailshaft, so I won't need a different drive shaft? Do I need different shifter linkage? What years had the mechanical speedometer cable? I've been told 700r4's from 4x4's are stronger than other 700r4's but they are the same dimensions, is that true? Should I only look for fullsize truck transmissions or are camaro/firebird/s10 tranmissions ok too? How much should I expect to pay for a working 700r4? I know that's a lot of questions, but it seems like a lot of people do this swap, I just wonder how difficult it is.
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Old 09-30-2004, 01:40 PM   #2
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I am pretty sure the 700r4 is 1 3/4 inches longer and you will have to shorten the driveshaft. I have a 700r4 from an 86 IROC and it has a mechanical speedo. Not sure what years have it after that though.
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Old 09-30-2004, 02:03 PM   #3
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The 9 inch Turbo 350 is the same length as the 700r4 is . I've swapped a bunch of them around. Yoke and driveshaft will reuse directly

On my old trucks, I reuse the stock linkage. Only difference is that it won't pull all the way down into 1st gear with the shift lever.

I use van 700r4s usually, because they kept the mechanical cable speedometer much later than pickups did.

Be sure and get the TV cable geometry and adjustment dialed in properly so you don't melt your overdrive tranny down.
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Old 09-30-2004, 02:10 PM   #4
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Thanks Tx, what other parts will I need if any? Isn't there a wiring plug for controlling torque converter lockup? Also, what kind of bracket(s) do I need for the tv cable. My kickdown cable is currently unhooked because the PO put on an edelbrock intake but didn't get the kickdown bracket.
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Old 09-30-2004, 02:19 PM   #5
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Great topic! I will be approaching this obstacle here soon too.
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Old 09-30-2004, 02:40 PM   #6
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http://207.44.196.117/vboard/showthread.php3?t=33266 Here's something from the FAQ's. I used the tv cable kit from www.700r4.com , but it is not necessary. I've got the install done but need to play some more with the tv cable....it hunts real bad between 3rd and 4th on part throttle.
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Old 09-30-2004, 03:53 PM   #7
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Forget the Cameros and Firebirds unless you want to change the tail shaft.
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Old 10-10-2004, 10:56 AM   #8
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How about late 80's-early 90's Caprice's?
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Old 10-10-2004, 01:12 PM   #9
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I was thinking that you need to stay below '86 or so to avoid computers. BTW, I have to change my yoke in switching from a 3speed to the 700r4. New tranny has 30 teeth, old had 8. The drive shaft will have to be shortened 1.5 inches or so, and that's with my engine in the forward position.
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Old 10-10-2004, 01:22 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guyryan100
I was thinking that you need to stay below '86 or so to avoid computers. BTW, I have to change my yoke in switching from a 3speed to the 700r4. New tranny has 30 teeth, old had 8. The drive shaft will have to be shortened 1.5 inches or so, and that's with my engine in the forward position.
If you have a Turbo 350 now and are swapping to a 700R4, the yokes are the same. Who ever told you different is wrong. I've done the swap way too many times personally.

Look in Vans and Suburbans for your new trans. They used cable type speedometers much later than pickup trucks did. No computer controlled 700R4 transmissions until 1992 or 93, depending on application. Then, it was called a 4L60E and has a huge wiring harness that plugs into the transmission.
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Old 10-10-2004, 07:07 PM   #11
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You will need the metric bolts for such items as the torque converter, trans mount to tail housing and nut for linkage stud.
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Old 10-10-2004, 07:24 PM   #12
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Great topic. Even if you have a trans with the elect speedo you can swap out the parts from an older 700R4 with a mechanical speedo and make it work. I saw a thread on here or somewhere about it. To enable shifting into all of the gears all you have to do is check where the rod coming from the column attaches into the cross shaft and drill another hole about a 1/2" closer to the selector shaft and attach your rod into it. This changes the geometry (the angle of the dangle) and will give you more swing with your shifter and you can get all the gears. If you have an older 700R4 with the rear mount cast into the tailshaft housing you can use the turbo 400 position to mount your rear crossmember. Most of the later 700's have the mount in the trans case directly behind the pan and you will have to drill new holes in the frame using this mount.Hope this helps.
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Old 10-10-2004, 08:33 PM   #13
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hold the phone on not hooking up the tv cable, it controls the amount of pressure to the plates and clutches- not hooking it up or not getting it right will cause a really early departure of trans. also there is the matter of the lockup torque converter if not wired up it will not lockup in od which also kills it because it will not cool enough! thats a quote from my trans expert friend! you can get the parts to make it lockup cheaply or buy the kit for around $70
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Old 10-10-2004, 09:41 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter
If you have a Turbo 350 now and are swapping to a 700R4, the yokes are the same. Who ever told you different is wrong. I've done the swap way too many times personally.
I'm sure that's true. Going form the 3spd manual, though, required a yoke transplant in my truck.
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Old 10-10-2004, 10:43 PM   #15
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There is quite a bit written in the FAQ on this topic...more in detail than listed on this thread...and some links with real good reading. Enough to keep you ocupied for the rest of the evening.
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Old 10-11-2004, 08:51 AM   #16
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GSFMECH,

Good one on drilling the hole for the selector 1/2" up from the original spot to allow shifting down into 1st gear. I've been reading for weeks, but I've not heard a solution for that yet.
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Old 10-11-2004, 11:37 AM   #17
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Just wondering if anyone has had any trouble with the 700r4 tranny hitting the flange at the bottom of the cab firewall? I did a test fit, and my cab was sitting on the tranny. Looked to be about 1/2 inch too high.
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Old 10-11-2004, 05:09 PM   #18
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I have heard about someone else having that problem with the firewall hittting the tranny. Is you Motor in the 6 CYL position ? I think that's where you run into the problem or mabye just the odd cab was built a little bit diffirent.

How is your truck coming along ?

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Old 10-11-2004, 05:34 PM   #19
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is it a big block engine in a small block truck? How are the cab mounts?
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Old 10-11-2004, 06:04 PM   #20
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I but a BB and a 700R4 in a low hump cab and have lots of room.
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Old 10-11-2004, 06:10 PM   #21
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Which towers did you use, the 67 - 71, or the 72 towers...did you use the tranny mount spacer that keeps the drive shaft geomitry in line, or did you mount it directly to the cross member. Was it a 1/2 ton 2 wheel drive, or something else?

Lots of variables in the big block fitting in a low hump cab.
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Old 10-11-2004, 06:14 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Longhorn Man
...did you use the tranny mount spacer that keeps the drive shaft geomitry in line, or did you mount it directly to the cross member...
Lots of variables in the big block fitting in a low hump cab.
I have a 72 c20, 350cu, had a turbo 350. I left the spacer out. Don't feel anything wrong, was that the wrong thing to do?
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Old 10-11-2004, 06:16 PM   #23
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Its a 1/2 ton LWB with coils. Used 72 mounts. And useda turbo 350 trans mount I think. No real problems. Used original cross member just muved it a little and drilled new holes. As fare as im concerned its a streight bolt in.
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Old 10-11-2004, 06:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chickenwing
I have a 72 c20, 350cu, had a turbo 350. I left the spacer out. Don't feel anything wrong, was that the wrong thing to do?
A small block truck doesn't have the spacer I am refering to...I was refering to 1-PU70's respomce of havng plenty of room.



Quote:
Originally Posted by 1-PU70
Its a 1/2 ton LWB with coils. Used 72 mounts. And useda turbo 350 trans mount I think. No real problems. Used original cross member just muved it a little and drilled new holes. As fare as im concerned its a streight bolt in.
The 72 mounts hold the engine a little lower IIRC, plus, if you don't have the big block spacer inder your tranny mount, then there is another inch or so clearance.
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Old 10-11-2004, 07:14 PM   #25
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I've used 67-71 mounts on mine with plenty of room. Every truck I've ever owned has been a small hump truck. There is plenty of room even with a 700R4.

If it's hitting, you need to look at replacing your cab mounts. When I first put my 454 into my low hump truck I have now, it hit the bottom of the cab. New cab mounts raised it right up. Now, I can slide my hand between the trans and cab in all spots.

Yes, I run the trans mount spacer too.
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