Powdercoating Chassis... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Trifelynn · 10-07-2004, 11:18 AM

I don't know if this is the right board to post on, if not, please lead me to the right board...

Everywhere I have seen people completely restoring cars, I see that they ussually powdercoat the frame...how important is this? I was planning on having it done. I got a price quote from a powdercoating shop from $800-$1200 depending on color, and how much sandblasting time it will take...the price includes sandblasting and powdercoating the frame and any other pieces I brought in, like front suspension parts...etc.

A few people are saying that it is paying an "x" amount of dollars to protect your frame...just curious if it is worth the extra money and time to disassemble to get this step done?

Lenny

Joe67 · 10-07-2004, 12:26 PM

The prep should be the same for powdercoating or painting a frame I would think.

If you have the $$, go powdercoat. If not, painting can work great provided the prep work is done correctly and you use the right product.

MrShelley · 10-07-2004, 03:18 PM

Check around on prices. I had my frame, trailing arms, front A-arms, sway bars, lots of brackets, and tons of other small parts sandblasted and coated for around $450.

BaggedC10 · 10-07-2004, 10:49 PM

I had my entire chassis, minus the rear-end housing and 4-link, PC'ed for roughly $2,000. The frame is black and all bolt-on's are done in Sparkle Silver and clear coated.

If you have the money or are patient enough to save up like me, I would recommend it. The results will be well worth it, especially when everything comes together.

Trifelynn · 10-07-2004, 11:41 PM

Thanks guys...

that is what I thought...

I didn't even think about doing different colors though...

I was thinking of doing Yellow, but they didn't have any bright yellows...they
were all kind of dull. I want the finished product(the color of the whole blazer) to be Canary Yellow, with black goodies....but I wanted the frame to match...but I didn't even think about doing different colors like that...

thanks

*chevytruckfan* · 10-15-2004, 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BaggedC10

The frame is black and all bolt-on's are done in Sparkle Silver and clear coated.

Can you post some pics of your silver/clear PC pieces. I am thinking of going a 2-tone silver paint on the body so I also thought about doing a silver vein PC on my frame and just wanted to see what it looks like especially cleared.

4x4Poet · 12-02-2004, 06:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BaggedC10

I had my entire chassis, minus the rear-end housing and 4-link, PC'ed for roughly $2,000....

Four times the cost other board members reported for a full frame PC? Must be some serious overhead in Kalifornia!

cysko9, you are one serious thread hijacker!

cysko9 · 10-11-2004, 08:11 PM

how far should i take the stuff on the frame appart before taking it in to be blasted and PC'd? Obviously all the suspension parts but how bout cross members and drive pillar or other mounts such as cab and bed....??

cysko9 · 10-11-2004, 08:19 PM

oops, one more thing....

im assuming that PC'd black is the cheapest color.... am i correct?

phantom dually · 10-11-2004, 09:24 PM

Colors did not matter where I had mine done. The price was $450 for just the frame and the members. Also every nut and bolt that will come out needs to be taken off.

BaggedC10 · 10-11-2004, 09:33 PM

Black is the most affordable color. Other colors can be a 3-step process.....Two layers of PC and one of clear coat. Anything and everything that can be un-bolted from the frame needs to be removed, as phantom dually said.

cysko9 · 10-11-2004, 09:50 PM

should i remove the parts that are riveted to the frame also? if so, will bolting them back on when finished be sufficient or should i get the re-riveted?

Joe67 · 10-12-2004, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cysko9

should i remove the parts that are riveted to the frame also? if so, will bolting them back on when finished be sufficient or should i get the re-riveted?

No need for that IMO.

As has been stated, unbolt everything you can

roj2323 · 10-11-2004, 10:20 PM

Don't remove rivits unless you need to replace something or remove something. the rivets are what make your frame strong. i'll repeat dont remove them unless you have too.

as far as powder coating remove everything that is bolted on. you will end up with a better looking frame and will give you a chance to replace the rusted bolts with new.

my frame is going to cost me $450 to powder coat and the guy offered to have it sand blasted for another $200. i figure i'll let him have it blasted that way he is responsable for any rust that may appear later on.

hope this helps,
ondrew

cysko9 · 10-13-2004, 01:41 PM

great, i'll get right on it now that i know for sure what im trying to do!

cysko9 · 10-15-2004, 09:27 PM

am i the only one who can't seet he pictures baggedc10 posted? cuz im gettin the little boxes with red x's in them...... just wondering.

BaggedC10 · 10-15-2004, 09:34 PM

The pictures should appear for you now.

cysko9 · 10-15-2004, 09:37 PM

hm.... well things are appearing but i highly doubt they are the intended images.....
some logo about how i can't see them b/c im outside of ImageStation.com....

BaggedC10 · 10-15-2004, 09:39 PM

Try this link.

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=3014845093

BTW, enlarge the pictures to see how the chassis actually looks.

cysko9 · 10-15-2004, 09:47 PM

ahhh, gotta love technology!

cysko9 · 10-15-2004, 09:58 PM

nice pictures, what are those parts towards the back? they don't seem like anything ive got on mine.....

ChevyCruizer · 10-15-2004, 11:17 PM

baggedc10-in picture 3 there is a rod or something going into your spring pocket. what is that?

ChevyCruizer · 10-15-2004, 11:24 PM

baggedC10-air line i think now that i stare at it. too bad you had to make 2 holes. the frame still looks great. after i cut my holes i took a piece of small vacume hose and sliced it down the middle then glued it around the perimeter of my holes. it looks just like a grommet, but it conforms to add shapes. plus it keeps the lines from rubbing on sharp metal.

BaggedC10 · 10-16-2004, 03:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChevyCruizer

baggedC10-air line i think now that i stare at it. too bad you had to make 2 holes. the frame still looks great. after i cut my holes i took a piece of small vacume hose and sliced it down the middle then glued it around the perimeter of my holes. it looks just like a grommet, but it conforms to add shapes. plus it keeps the lines from rubbing on sharp metal.

I drilled the first hole too high in the X-member. Oh well, live and learn right? I sanded the openings smooth and as you can see, installed seeth(sp?) to protect the air line from header heat and general wear.

cysko9---My truck has a custom backhalf. The front kit is Air Ride Technologies' Cool-Ride kit and out back I have their polished stainless steel parallel 4-link. I have their ARC4800 BIGRed Max compressor system to adjust the ride height.

I'll have updated pictures posted soon.

cysko9 · 10-15-2004, 11:28 PM

bagged - where did u purchase ur air system from?

10-07-2004, 11:18 AM	#1
Trifelynn Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Williston, North Dakota Posts: 469	Powdercoating Chassis... I don't know if this is the right board to post on, if not, please lead me to the right board... Everywhere I have seen people completely restoring cars, I see that they ussually powdercoat the frame...how important is this? I was planning on having it done. I got a price quote from a powdercoating shop from $800-$1200 depending on color, and how much sandblasting time it will take...the price includes sandblasting and powdercoating the frame and any other pieces I brought in, like front suspension parts...etc. A few people are saying that it is paying an "x" amount of dollars to protect your frame...just curious if it is worth the extra money and time to disassemble to get this step done? Lenny __________________ Always looking for a 2wd blazer

10-07-2004, 12:26 PM	#2
Joe67 67 is sold Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Troy, Michigan Posts: 6,733	The prep should be the same for powdercoating or painting a frame I would think. If you have the $$, go powdercoat. If not, painting can work great provided the prep work is done correctly and you use the right product. __________________ Joe - Formerly 67c10step ------------------------------- 1967 Chevy Stepside - ECE 4/6, fuelcell, 5lug - SOLD gr8lakes - My ebay auctions Click here to order forum apparel :: Click here to become a subscribing member

10-07-2004, 03:18 PM	#3
MrShelley Too Many Clubs Club Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Kilgore, Texas Posts: 443	Check around on prices. I had my frame, trailing arms, front A-arms, sway bars, lots of brackets, and tons of other small parts sandblasted and coated for around $450. __________________ How I installed my air bags...

10-07-2004, 10:49 PM	#4
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	I had my entire chassis, minus the rear-end housing and 4-link, PC'ed for roughly $2,000. The frame is black and all bolt-on's are done in Sparkle Silver and clear coated. If you have the money or are patient enough to save up like me, I would recommend it. The results will be well worth it, especially when everything comes together. __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

10-07-2004, 11:41 PM	#5
Trifelynn Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Williston, North Dakota Posts: 469	Thanks guys... that is what I thought... I didn't even think about doing different colors though... I was thinking of doing Yellow, but they didn't have any bright yellows...they were all kind of dull. I want the finished product(the color of the whole blazer) to be Canary Yellow, with black goodies....but I wanted the frame to match...but I didn't even think about doing different colors like that... thanks __________________ Always looking for a 2wd blazer

10-11-2004, 08:11 PM	#8
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	how far should i take the stuff on the frame appart before taking it in to be blasted and PC'd? Obviously all the suspension parts but how bout cross members and drive pillar or other mounts such as cab and bed....?? __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer

10-11-2004, 08:19 PM	#9
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	oops, one more thing.... im assuming that PC'd black is the cheapest color.... am i correct? __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer

10-11-2004, 09:24 PM	#10
phantom dually Project92 SWB stepside Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Louisville KY Posts: 4,792	Colors did not matter where I had mine done. The price was $450 for just the frame and the members. Also every nut and bolt that will come out needs to be taken off. __________________ 92 C1500 stepside 496 Stroker Competiton Engineering Ladder bars/QA1 coilovers. Dana 60 rear with 4.10 gear and posi. Bonspeed Palisade 20x12 in rear w/335/30/20 and 20x8.5 front w/245/40/20. 5/8 drop with Belltech springs/DJM spindles/drop shocks. WWS Progress thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=140448

10-11-2004, 09:33 PM	#11
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	Black is the most affordable color. Other colors can be a 3-step process.....Two layers of PC and one of clear coat. Anything and everything that can be un-bolted from the frame needs to be removed, as phantom dually said. __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

10-11-2004, 09:50 PM	#12
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	should i remove the parts that are riveted to the frame also? if so, will bolting them back on when finished be sufficient or should i get the re-riveted? __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer

10-11-2004, 10:20 PM	#14
roj2323 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Somewhere Posts: 985	Don't remove rivits unless you need to replace something or remove something. the rivets are what make your frame strong. i'll repeat dont remove them unless you have too. as far as powder coating remove everything that is bolted on. you will end up with a better looking frame and will give you a chance to replace the rusted bolts with new. my frame is going to cost me $450 to powder coat and the guy offered to have it sand blasted for another $200. i figure i'll let him have it blasted that way he is responsable for any rust that may appear later on. hope this helps, ondrew

10-13-2004, 01:41 PM	#15
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	great, i'll get right on it now that i know for sure what im trying to do! __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer

10-15-2004, 09:27 PM	#16
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	am i the only one who can't seet he pictures baggedc10 posted? cuz im gettin the little boxes with red x's in them...... just wondering. __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer

10-15-2004, 09:34 PM	#17
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	The pictures should appear for you now. __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold

10-15-2004, 09:37 PM	#18
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	hm.... well things are appearing but i highly doubt they are the intended images..... some logo about how i can't see them b/c im outside of ImageStation.com.... __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer



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10-15-2004, 09:39 PM	#19
BaggedC10 Under construction! Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: NorCal Posts: 1,065	Try this link. http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=3014845093 BTW, enlarge the pictures to see how the chassis actually looks. __________________ 2001 Silverado bagged on 22's. Sold Last edited by BaggedC10; 10-15-2004 at 09:41 PM.

10-15-2004, 09:47 PM	#20
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	ahhh, gotta love technology! __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer

10-15-2004, 09:58 PM	#21
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	nice pictures, what are those parts towards the back? they don't seem like anything ive got on mine..... __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer

10-15-2004, 11:17 PM	#22
ChevyCruizer 17's too small Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 335	baggedc10-in picture 3 there is a rod or something going into your spring pocket. what is that? __________________ 68 C10 SWB SS 5 lug power disc brake conversion 2.5 inch drop spindles van tilt column Air Ride Technologies Cool Ride air bag kits Performance Online tubular upper control arms and shock relocator kits ECE super track panhard bar 1 piece side windows

10-15-2004, 11:24 PM	#23
ChevyCruizer 17's too small Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 335	baggedC10-air line i think now that i stare at it. too bad you had to make 2 holes. the frame still looks great. after i cut my holes i took a piece of small vacume hose and sliced it down the middle then glued it around the perimeter of my holes. it looks just like a grommet, but it conforms to add shapes. plus it keeps the lines from rubbing on sharp metal. __________________ 68 C10 SWB SS 5 lug power disc brake conversion 2.5 inch drop spindles van tilt column Air Ride Technologies Cool Ride air bag kits Performance Online tubular upper control arms and shock relocator kits ECE super track panhard bar 1 piece side windows

10-15-2004, 11:28 PM	#25
cysko9 MI '69 Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Michigan Posts: 314	bagged - where did u purchase ur air system from? __________________ 1967 Chevy (Project Frankenstein) 1973 K5 Blazer

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