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Old 10-18-2004, 11:52 PM   #1
skokie
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Brake question

I added a booster to my 68 1/2 ton. Its got drums in the front and back. I noticed tonight that when I push the brake pedal down the brakes dont start to work until about 2/3rds the way down. Is this normal or do I need to adjust the rod or brakes themselves?

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Old 10-19-2004, 12:05 AM   #2
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Forgot to put this in. I have checked the fluid and it is fine.
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Old 10-19-2004, 12:19 AM   #3
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I pulled the master off of the booster and noticed the black rupper piece was kinda crumpled up. It fell off when I pulled the master out. How is this piece supposed to go back on?

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Old 10-19-2004, 06:56 AM   #4
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You don't need the rubber piece anymore. It's used for when you are bolting the master cylinder directly to the firewall without a booster.
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Old 10-19-2004, 07:45 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skokie
I added a booster to my 68 1/2 ton. Its got drums in the front and back. I noticed tonight that when I push the brake pedal down the brakes dont start to work until about 2/3rds the way down. Is this normal or do I need to adjust the rod or brakes themselves?

Thanks
It sounds like your brake shoes could use an adjustment. You can get a better pedal than that by cranking the shoes out closer to the drums.

I like drum brakes but an occasional adjustment is something that needs to be done with these. I'd get a can of brake cleaner and clean 'em up while your in there too.
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Old 10-19-2004, 11:25 AM   #6
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Tx Firefighter I will remove that tonight.
Bobs 409 I know that its a star bolt that you have to adjust do you turn it to the left or right to tighten the brakes. Never done this before.

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Old 10-19-2004, 02:34 PM   #7
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That's it but it turns upward or downward. To move the shoes closer to the drum, turn the wheel downward. (when looking at it from the front)

There should be a slot in the brake drum so you can put a screwdriver in and turn it. Spin drum to check. I usually stop when there is some contact. You don't want too much contact though, just light.
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Old 10-19-2004, 02:39 PM   #8
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Bobs409,
Thanks for the info. Truck is going to the tranny shop tonight for the 400 turbo rebuild so I will do this wen I get the truck back.
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Old 10-19-2004, 03:28 PM   #9
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Can you use the same master cylinder when adding a booster? I heard the a different MC was needed.....
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Old 10-19-2004, 04:20 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdazb
Can you use the same master cylinder when adding a booster? I heard the a different MC was needed.....
On most vehicles, you do indeed need a new master cylinder. however, the P/N for manual and power master cylinders are the same for these trucks.

I'm willing to bet that when you adjust your deums, you'll still have freeplay in the pedal. If so, you'll need to adjust the pushrod.
Did you hook the rod on the pedal to the other hole?
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Old 10-19-2004, 03:54 PM   #11
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I am planning on doing this to a '69 Burb. Is it really beneficial w/o converting to front drums first?? Any suggestions before I do this??
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Old 10-19-2004, 04:55 PM   #12
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Longhorn Man
What other hole are you referring to?
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Old 10-19-2004, 05:14 PM   #13
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From what I have read on here (never done a power conversion myself) there are two holes on the arm for the brake pedal. Moving from one to the other chainges the amount of leverage you are using to apply the piston movement in the master cylinder.
I'm 99% positive you are supposed to move the rod from one hole to the other when adding a booster.
Anyone else...am I remembering this correctly?
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Old 10-19-2004, 05:20 PM   #14
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Yea I think you are correct Longhorn Man, sounds just like the problems I had when converting to disc brakes, I had to move the linkage at the brake pedal.
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Old 10-19-2004, 05:57 PM   #15
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Nope didnt do that. Ok where is this hole located on the brake pedal? Anyone got a pic?

Thanks
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Old 10-20-2004, 12:02 AM   #16
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Well I started digging through the factory assembly manual and it looks like there is two holes. Heres the page from the assembly manual.
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