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Old 11-15-2004, 11:06 PM   #1
OG lil E
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Question Airbaggers! Share your Knowledge Please!

I've been driving my '79 Chevy around town for the last few weeks and it is great! But, I have come to the conclusion that if I plan on driving it on these terrible Denver streets I'm going to have to install airbags. I had planned to put them in the rear all along, but now I've decided to put them in the front as well. My front A-arms are just a few inches off the ground and I'm hitting on everything! I've had lowered vehicles before, but the truck's suspension really rides low and drags alot, way more than other cars I've had. I've read stories on here in the past about guys destroying A-arms on big bumps and dips, and I think I'm going to get bagged before it happens to me.

I've installed hydraulics before, but I want the ride that airbags give. Also, cleaning up hydraulic leaks gets to be a drag after awhile. I've been reading about installs in magazines, but most of the articles are pretty vague. Does anybody know of any good articles in magazines with install stories with lots of pictures and helpful tips? Also, what do I need to look out for? What problems did you have? Who is the best company to buy from? How many valves do I need for a front and back set up--no side to side? What size airline is the best to run? Sorry about all the questions, but I want to do alot of research and then get the bags installed without alot of re-working and part upgrade purchases. Thanks for any help--I appreciate it! Layta......E
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Old 11-15-2004, 11:40 PM   #2
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Hey man I cant help on the bags but I saw you were from Denver and thought I would say hey. Not a lot of denver people here, any pics of your truck?
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Old 11-16-2004, 12:19 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG lil E
Also, what do I need to look out for? What problems did you have? Who is the best company to buy from? How many valves do I need for a front and back set up--no side to side? What size airline is the best to run?


1. Look out for Chassis Tech/AIM Industries products. Never purchase from this company.....!!!

2. I've had zero problems w/ my truck but I have only driven it 200-miles since owning it. Assuming the installation is done right, the suspension should provide many years of trouble-free service. Make sure the air springs don't make contact w/ anything, the air line is not prone to chaifing, and all fittings are secure/taped.

3. www.***************** and www.RideTech.com

3. Technically, you only NEED 4-valves but air transfer from side-to-side will cause the truck to handle poorly. I wouldn't think twice about installing a 4-way setup! The adjustment and handling advantage is worth every penny.

4. Air line and valve size depends on what you desire of your compressor system. Personally, I think anything less than 1/2" is too slow. I don't hit the switches very often or care about speed but I wouldn't want a slower system. My setup is very controllable and user friendly.

Personally, here's what I would do:

Front suspension:

SD.com upper plates.

Firestone 224c or Slam Specialties RS72 air springs.

ART upper and lower tubular control arms.

Belltech or DJM 3" spindles.

If you want to retain the factory control arms, purchase lower cups from SD.com!

Rear Suspension:

ART parallel 4-link w/ F9000's located behind the axle.

SD.com or custom 8" step notch.

Or

KP Components 4-link w/ cantilever attatchment. 100% bolt-on and it includes everything you need, including a frame notch.

Compressor system:

Piece together your own system using two Viar 400 compressors, two 5-gallon air tanks, 8 SMC valves, and DOT approved air line/fittings.

Or you could purchase the ARC4800 BIGRed Max compressor system from ART.
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Last edited by BaggedC10; 11-16-2004 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 11-16-2004, 06:27 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info BC10. I already have Bell Tech lowered spindles and Summit lowered springs, so I'm already low. We also sectioned the A-arms so the alignment would be better. The a-arms have been powder coated as well, but I'm sure I'll have to get those re-done after the I weld in the bag brackets. I'm pretty sure that I'll get the air bag brackets and the bridge for the rear from Suicide doors. I've heard nothing but good things about them and their prices are great! I'm mostly concerned about the install and all the weird things that always seem to come up. I hope it goes smoothly.

Cochino12, I do have a few pictures of my truck. It's not much to look at right now, but I'm working on it. I'll try to put them up, but I'm not sure if I can figure out how to post them. Seems like there is never much to do here in Denver, but it's kool to see there is another Mile High trucker here!
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Old 11-16-2004, 09:08 AM   #5
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Here is a simple bag lay out for you to look at. This is a two way system. On these trucks you really need a four way system to prevent air tranfer from side to side....
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Old 11-16-2004, 09:11 AM   #6
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You mention welding in your bag plates. The upper plates can't be welded in, because you wouldn't have any way to un-bolt the bags later. The lower cups "do not" weld or even bolt in. They have to float to prevent to bag from over extending....
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Old 11-16-2004, 09:38 AM   #7
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The biggest cause of failure is line or bag blow-out. Your bags "CAN NOT" touch anything. If they touch, they will wear through. The rear bags must be set where they don't over extend. (see pic).

Your air lines should be routed way away from your exhaust if you use plastic line. It will blow out if it's anywhere near the exhaust.....
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Old 11-21-2004, 08:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaggedC10
2. I've had zero problems w/ my truck but I have only driven it 200-miles since owning it. Assuming the installation is done right, the suspension should provide many years of trouble-free service. Make sure the air springs don't make contact w/ anything, the air line is not prone to chaifing, and all fittings are secure/taped.
I've been using the same 4 bags on my '69 for >5 years. I've popped a couple of the 1/8" gauge lines, but only in the last few months... and my truck can be driven when the front is dumped, so it wasn't bad nursing it home and fixing the broken line. After I get my new cab in place, I'm going to use digital gauges so I won't have to deal with the 1/8" lines any more.
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Old 11-22-2004, 10:25 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXL
I've been using the same 4 bags on my '69 for >5 years. I've popped a couple of the 1/8" gauge lines, but only in the last few months... and my truck can be driven when the front is dumped, so it wasn't bad nursing it home and fixing the broken line. After I get my new cab in place, I'm going to use digital gauges so I won't have to deal with the 1/8" lines any more.
I just recieved my ART catalogue this weekend and i was wondering about the digital controller..... it seems like a GREAT deal for $399. Looking in the catalogue 2 things came to mind #1 it is very well done and #2 most the stuff is over priced but the digital controller seemed pretty reasonable considering. Am i mistaken in thinking that it acts as both switches and gagues and would be the only peice of equipment aside from the bags, lines, compressor and tank? I would think that if you totaled up all the switches and gauges you would be spending pretty close to the same. Am i missing something here?
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Old 11-22-2004, 10:37 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreyHoundSteve
..... Am i mistaken in thinking that it acts as both switches and gagues and would be the only peice of equipment aside from the bags, lines, compressor and tank? I would think that if you totaled up all the switches and gauges you would be spending pretty close to the same. Am i missing something here?
That is an add on unit. You still have to have the valves...
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Old 11-22-2004, 11:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XXL
.....After I get my new cab in place, I'm going to use digital gauges so I won't have to deal with the 1/8" lines any more.
No doubt that this is the way to go. It eliminates on more air line that can cause problems.

On my 77 we monuted the gauge in the ashtray...

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Old 11-22-2004, 05:56 PM   #12
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N2TRUX,

how do you control the pressure with that gauge?
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Old 11-22-2004, 06:33 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlaird
N2TRUX,

how do you control the pressure with that gauge?
It's just a digital gauge. You control the pressure w/remote switches (air in/air out). N2TRUX has his switches mounted to a custom 'box' (for lack of a better term) mounted low & close to the center of his bench seat. It's very cool indeed.
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Old 11-16-2004, 10:35 AM   #14
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N2Trux, thanks, this is exactly the kind of information I've been looking for! Could you please explain a "four-way" system?
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Old 11-16-2004, 11:52 AM   #15
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It uses twice the amount of valves pictured in the diagram above. A 2-way system has 4 valves. The front bags are paired together, and the rear bags are paired together. It has two valves for each "pair" of bags. The problem with this style of stystem is it allows air to transfer between the pairs of bags. On smaller, lighter vehicles it's not a big issue, but on our trucks it makes thew sway, or lean when cornering.

A 4 way system has 8 valves total. It uses two valves to control control each bag seperately. This eliminates air transfer between bags and allows you to adjust each corner by itself.

As far as line/valve size goes, 3/8" will do what you want just fine. A lot of guys are going to 1/2" ( or bigger) but it's not really needed. If you want a system that will clown, then that's a whole different story. If you want one that gets the job done then 3/8" valves and line are plenty fast....



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Old 11-16-2004, 11:59 AM   #16
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good thread i didnt realize you could get the front brackets that cheap im gonna do mine one day hopefully
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Old 11-16-2004, 07:06 PM   #17
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hmmm....tempting, very very tempting...
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Old 11-17-2004, 02:27 PM   #18
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id like to jump in here and throw another questrion in. how bad is it to weld in the lower cups? cause mine are welded in and have been that way for months now. should i cut them out ? i havent had any problems yet but i dont want any either so am i asking for trouble by keeping them welded in?
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Old 11-17-2004, 06:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerMonkeY
id like to jump in here and throw another questrion in. how bad is it to weld in the lower cups? cause mine are welded in and have been that way for months now....
I don't think it will become an issue unless you try hopping with it. They are supposed to be floating to prevent over extension. Under normal driving I don't think you would ever do that with the fronts because the bump stops and shocks shouldn't let that happen.....
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Old 11-18-2004, 10:36 AM   #20
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I'm still not sure why you would need that many valves. With 8 valves would it be wired with 8 separate switches? Would double outlet bags be necessary? This is still a little vague. It seems like you could get away with 3 valves for the front, and 3 more for the rear. Anybody happen to have a wiring/plumbing diagram for a set up like this? Thanks to everyone who has helped out on this post--and to everyone that will add on as well. E
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:55 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OG lil E
With 8 valves would it be wired with 8 separate switches?
You would have 4 rocker switches, one for each wheel. Each switch has 3 positions, inflate, off, and deflate.

Hang in there, you'll get it.
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Old 11-18-2004, 08:01 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2TRUX
I don't think it will become an issue unless you try hopping with it. They are supposed to be floating to prevent over extension. Under normal driving I don't think you would ever do that with the fronts because the bump stops and shocks shouldn't let that happen.....

my shocks do act as limiters for lift. but i dont have any bumpstops. and i dont plan on trying to hop it with firestones si when im ready to hop and change bags ill just cut loose the cup. thanks , iwas a little worried id be running into problems
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:03 AM   #23
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It's confusing because you of the amount of valves used. You have to have one valve to control air going in the bag(s), and one valve to let air out of the bag(s).

In other words the 2 way system pictured above has one valve to send air from the storage tank to the front bags, and one valve to let it out of the front bags. The same goes for the rear bags for a "total" of 4 valves.

On the 4 way system it uses two valves per each bag. One to let air in from storage and one to let air out of the bag for a "total" of eight valves.

Does that make sense....
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:33 AM   #24
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8 valve plumbing
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How I installed my air bags...
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Old 11-18-2004, 02:04 PM   #25
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This tread should be a STICKY!
good stuff!
I like the 4 way bags with 4 stems all at the back in or around the gas filer.
I'm broke so I can go down easy, but going up needs the gas station!
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