The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Squarebody Pickups Message Board > The 1973 - 1991 Blazers, Jimmys, and Suburbans Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-03-2005, 03:04 AM   #1
passthebuck
Sisyphus was my mentor!
 
passthebuck's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Carleton Place, Ontario CANADA
Posts: 984
Question jimmy rear window problems

I'm a 67-72 guy BUT my buddy has an 87 jimmy. I'm tryin hard to get him to join this board but he's too "busy". His rear window wont roll down. You press the switch to UP & you can hear it try to go up, but it obviously cant go any further (its up all the way all ready) BUT it will not make a sound when you hit the down button. It's a brand new switch in the dash. Do these motors go bad often? or is it the wiring ir a poor connection? I just thought you guys whould see this type of thing often & mabe have an ez answer. I'm going to help him out when its a bit warmer & get 'er goin. Thanx for your help.

__________________
passthebuck
#5642
-TWO 1967 GMC 910's. One with L6/3-on-the tree and the other with 355 w/435hp & a 700r4.
-a 2013 Honda Civic as my "sensible" car
passthebuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2005, 02:25 AM   #2
jays68yak
Registered User
 
jays68yak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Gilroy, CA
Posts: 1,453
i kinda have the same prob, but mine is stuck down. The motor turns only one way, and only if it is unpluged from the window assembly. And the key thingy on the door itself wont work.
__________________
1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



"I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "
jays68yak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2005, 03:41 AM   #3
longhorn71
Senior Member
 
longhorn71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: CANADA
Posts: 1,681
Quote:
Originally Posted by jays68yak
i kinda have the same prob, but mine is stuck down. The motor turns only one way, and only if it is unpluged from the window assembly. And the key thingy on the door itself wont work.
mine does the same thing
longhorn71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2005, 03:54 AM   #4
jays68yak
Registered User
 
jays68yak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Gilroy, CA
Posts: 1,453
ok so now we just need to know why....then we can fix it.
__________________
1969 Chevy Project SWB Fleet, 20s, 5.3, t56, in the weeds.
1970 Chevy Truck cab on a 1979 Jimmy frame-8.1 liter 496 bbc/sm465/np203-jeds doubler-np205/d60/14bff Welded/42 tsls on recentered H1s
1998 Chevy Crew Cab K3500 SAS'd with hpd60, links and swayaway coilovers. 8.1l vortec DD/towrig



"I like long walks, especially when they are taken by people who annoy me. "
jays68yak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2005, 12:17 PM   #5
Gregsmx
Registered User
 
Gregsmx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: San Antonio Tx
Posts: 338
I know this may sound like a minor suggestion, but I found that good grounds are really important for the motor operation. The motor inside the gate has a ground wire, and the switch also is grounded.

And be sure the motor is not just grounded to the gate itself, but to the body. In otherwords, there should be a ground wire that goes past the gate hinges and is securely mounted to the body.

Minor, but also easy to check and improve if necessary. I'd be interested in hearing back ya'll if this helped anyone?
Greg.
__________________
'75 Blazer RAT 4X4 "BLAZIN" - Custom frame off

Here's the website I'm uploading pics to: Greg's frame off project

Last edited by Gregsmx; 01-09-2005 at 12:20 PM. Reason: add text
Gregsmx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2005, 07:49 PM   #6
1976K5CHALET
Senior Member
 
1976K5CHALET's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Grand Junction, Colorado
Posts: 610
Come to think of it i need to build a new rear harness for mine...
Anyways start with the basics...unplug the round connector at the firewall....with a good dvom and a buddy...have said buddy measure volts as the switch is depressed...3 wires...one is ground and the other two are up and down...if you have good vlotage there repeat the test at the rear of your K5...generally under the body near the left tail light is a another round plug with those same three wires...just follow the harness out of tail gate to find the connector...try again..if you still have good volt (12VDC) or better....you will have to open the tailgate to investigate further....on the left latch assm is a deadman switch....blue wire if i remember right...bypass this switch and recheck....and yes i realize it won't go down....so if there happens to be no voltage ava at the rear jumper it via the battery to get it to come down if thats your problem. Next question is whats up with the rear key switch...does it work...

DW
__________________
Doug Wright aka K5NUTT over @coloradok5.com
Owner of http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ChevyK5BlazerChalets
Certified K5 Nut
1976K5CHALET is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com