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01-28-2005, 07:02 PM | #1 |
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axle info
i was just wondering what kind of rear axle is in my truck, it is a 70 chev 3/4 ton 4x4. the diff cover is round and smooth and i believe the center section can be unbolted. i'm not sure on the center section part because i haven't seen the truck for a couple of years. its at my parents, a couple states away. the reason i'm asking is because i am thinking about working on the truck this summer and was wondering if it is a good strong axle or if i should look for a replacement. i also think that it had drum brakes in the front and was wondering if it would be better to change them over to discs or just find a different axle that already has them. thanks for any help you might be able to give me.
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01-28-2005, 07:03 PM | #2 |
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SOUNDS LIKE A HO 52, I THINK THAT'S WHAT IT'S CALLED
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01-28-2005, 07:15 PM | #3 |
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Yep it is the HO52. There's nothing wrong with that rear end, they're damn hard to mess up. Drum brakes in the front are OK, but disc brakes help out a lot with stopping power. If you want to keep it original, there's nothing wrong with keeping the drum brakes.
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01-28-2005, 07:18 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
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01-28-2005, 07:18 PM | #5 |
its all about the +6 inches
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The HO52 (eaton diff in a corp axle) is a very good axle...however, anything you'd replace in it is getting pretty expensive.
Welcome to the board from central Ohio...where you located at? |
01-28-2005, 07:47 PM | #6 |
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what's the HO stand for. i was guessing parts would be expensive. do you guys think i should keep it, or do you think it would be more cost effective to go with something else. i'm planning on running at least a 35" tire. i'm from minnesota, twincities area but the truck is in michigan right now buried under about 4' of snow.
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01-28-2005, 09:40 PM | #7 |
its all about the +6 inches
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No idea what the HO is for.
The brakes on my rear axle cost me so much that I refuse to do another brake job on them. So that gives me 2 or 3 years to figure if I want to slip a later one ton suspention under there, or convert to a 5 lug 1/2 ton set up. |
01-28-2005, 10:29 PM | #8 |
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Rebuilding all the brakes on my truck was cheap. A set of HD 2 3/4" wide shoes was about $25 and the wheel cylinder rebuild kits were about $5 each. The front shoes were replaced right before my truck had been parked in '96 so they're still good. I should have replaced all the wheel cylinders because they're original and wore out but I couldn't afford that at the time so I just rebuilt 'em instead.
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01-29-2005, 03:10 AM | #9 |
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01-29-2005, 07:36 AM | #10 |
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Keep the Corporate rear.All parts cost too much for everything.Don`t let it get to where the drums are cut or kill the bearings and cost is digestible.Drums are cool.They`re good enough for big rigs.Ome thing is,when GM went to discs in`71,they also went to the modern"open-knuckle"design.Turns sharper and parts may be easier,not sure.All the GM solid-type front axles are very swappable.
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01-29-2005, 06:26 PM | #11 |
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The '70 front drums are hard to find because they are a one year only item. Ask Jims70GMC, he has dealt with this problem. My advice would be to swap in a disc braked dana 44.
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01-30-2005, 11:22 AM | #12 |
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thanks for the help. does anybody know of a site that has parts for the ho52 and some more info on them. just want to find out as much stuff as i can before i start working on the truck this spring. will a front axle out of a 73-87 be a direct bolt in on these trucks?
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01-30-2005, 11:31 AM | #13 |
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I ended up finding used drums for my 70. Going strong after 2 yrs and over 30000 miles. But when these are done, I'm going disc. You can swap in any GM solid front axle from 71 and up. Direct bolt in just need to remember what you put in for future reference. Will need to change brake lines also.
P.S. The 1970 front axles are open knuckle w/ drums, one year only. As far as info on the H052/H072, the best info I found has been on this site.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm Last edited by JIMs70GMC; 01-30-2005 at 11:45 AM. |
01-30-2005, 01:19 PM | #14 |
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there is some good info on pirate4x4 about the eaton as well, but the bad thing is that everyone calls it something different. Eaton, H072, H052, 10 bolt, corporate full floater, corporate drop out third. you just gotta sift through the crap.
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01-30-2005, 04:17 PM | #15 |
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H0 is just reference to the RPO ( regular production option) number... they all started with HO in this series of RPO'S...HO52, H072, H0110....the number go higher as you get into higher gvw ranges.
HO52 being 3/4 ton H072 being 1 ton typically H0110 being 11/2 ton etc. and upward
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01-30-2005, 09:49 PM | #16 |
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???
i thought that the 52 was 1/2 ton and the 72 was 3/4 ton. i have a ho72 in my 72 sub, you cant get any other gears for it, other than 4:10 or 4:56. that is why i'll be putting in a 14ff for the avail. of gears and the ease of a disc brake conversion.
Dwayne
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01-30-2005, 09:59 PM | #17 |
its all about the +6 inches
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A chevy 12 bolt was standard in the half ton trucks with a dana being avalible.
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01-31-2005, 12:29 AM | #18 |
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the 52 was the 3/4 ton version, and 72 the 1 ton model. you can also get 5.14 gears for your axle Duane.
the H110 was an optional axle in the 1 ton models that is considerably bigger than the 52 or 72. It has a 12.25" ring gear, and the diff cover is welded on vs bolted for the smaller models.
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