tape or lock?

[el curioso]

Which is better teflon tape or loctite for air bag fittings? do i need to add a seprate relay for each switch or valve?

Thanks In advance.

p.s: Does any one know how to wire the windows so that they automaticaly go up when the vehicles alarm goes on because i was thinking that maybe it can be rigged so that it defaltes the air bags when the vehicle's alarm turns on. there for deactivating them till the alarm is deactivated . Good idea, bad idea, or am i just a dumb A$$ open for all coments and suggestions.

[Fat Tom]

I would think teflon tape would be better, its meant as a seal, where as loctite is a glue.

[Shev]

Everybody has an opinion on this one...the reason they say use locitite instead of tape is that there is a good chance of overtightening with tape...another reason is little piece of tape can come off and get stuck in a valve. I like to use the red silicon stuff personally and have never had a leak. Many have used tape or loctite without any problems. Many use teflon paste without problems. Which is best? Hard to say...

If you get the correct type of switch you shouldn't need a relay for each valve. As far as the alarm thing, I know some have the capabitility of doing certain things when the alarm is armed...I have a couple of buddies that have theirs lay their trucks out when they arm their alarm.

[fastbagged68]

Do not use tape or teflon paste. You will get leaks. Use gaskets sealer or locktite "anerobic sealer" I have not had a leak when using these. You can get the anerobic stuff from any chevy dealer ship i think. My last tube costed $28.00 for a small tube. But it will last a while!

[XXL]

Originally Posted by fastbagged68

Do not use tape or teflon paste. You will get leaks. Use gaskets sealer or locktite "anerobic sealer" I have not had a leak when using these. You can get the anerobic stuff from any chevy dealer ship i think. My last tube costed $28.00 for a small tube. But it will last a while!

I don't use either and have no leaks. Regular pipe thread compound is < $3 for a "lifetime" supply.

[grnddwn]

Originally Posted by fastbagged68

Do not use tape or teflon paste. You will get leaks. Use gaskets sealer or locktite "anerobic sealer" I have not had a leak when using these. You can get the anerobic stuff from any chevy dealer ship i think. My last tube costed $28.00 for a small tube. But it will last a while!

I'll only use tape 10 years in instrumentation never had a leak, & years baggin cars and trucks no leaking problems for threads.

[hotrodhomi]

Originally Posted by grnddwn

I'll only use tape 10 years in instrumentation never had a leak, & years baggin cars and trucks no leaking problems for threads.

I'm an instrument tech too! I want to make sure that everyone knows that nothing should be used on compression fittings. But as far as the pipe fittings, I use tape as well.

[grnddwn]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

I'm an instrument tech too! I want to make sure that everyone knows that nothing should be used on compression fittings. But as far as the pipe fittings, I use tape as well.

Good call

[bagged74]

most alarm systems have a ground when armed output that you could use to trigger the relay to dump the valves. Sometimes there is not an extra ground when armed wire, but you can tap into it at the starter kill relay. This would simplify things and you would not have to worry about all of the problems scenarios that came up earlier. work smarter not harder guys!

[jamis]

Originally Posted by el curioso

Does any one know how to wire the windows so that they automaticaly go up when the vehicles alarm goes on because i was thinking that maybe it can be rigged so that it defaltes the air bags when the vehicle's alarm turns on. there for deactivating them till the alarm is deactivated . Good idea, bad idea, or am i just a dumb A$$ open for all coments and suggestions.

Sounds like a cool idea?

Do you mean for the vehicle to lower when the alarm is triggerd?

BUT...think about a little kid going after his ball that rolled under your truck.....and the alram goes off and the truck lowers itself on him

[Slammed67]

I 've used both teflon tape and paste. I had leaks with the paste, but very good results with the tape.

BUT...think about a little kid going after his ball that rolled under your truck.....and the alram goes off and the truck lowers itself on him

Good point. Why not just lower the truck all the way when you park it? Then have a hidden toggle switch that cuts off power to your air ride switches when you park the truck.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by jamis

Sounds like a cool idea?

Do you mean for the vehicle to lower when the alarm is triggerd?

BUT...think about a little kid going after his ball that rolled under your truck.....and the alram goes off and the truck lowers itself on him

Standard Bosch-type "cube" 30a SPDT relay...

85 = alarm siren output (will not work on "speaker" alarms where siren driver is built into alarm brain)
86 = ground
30 = B+
87 = output to B+ requirements of whatever you want to operate when siren goes off (as in window up switch or bag down switch or whatever).
87a = not used

Depending on the "tolerance" of the device you're controlling, you might also need something to turn off the B+ going to it (windows, whatever) since the above relay will be live the entire time the siren cycles. If so, you can create a simple "unlatching" device with a second Bosch relay. The second relay would be as follows...

85 = input item that tells the first relay to stop (switch that tells you your window is all the way up, etc.)
86 = ground (or B+ if switch on 85 is a ground switch... this is actually my preferred method, either way... 85 and 86 require opposite polarities-- so if one gets B+, the other needs ground to trigger the relay).
30 and 87 = connected inline between B+ and 30 on the first relay
87a = again not used.

I'm busy right now... but I think you can do this with a single relay using 87a to tell it to stop. I'll think about it and get back to you.

[Fat Tom]

I got the impressions that he wanted the truck to lower when he armed the system, not when the alarm went off. That would solve the little boy getting stuck problem, but like Slammed67 said, you could just lower it yourself and cut off the power. But I guess thats not as trick as walking away and hearing chirp chirp pssssssssssssss.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by Fat Tom

I got the impressions that he wanted the truck to lower when he armed the system, not when the alarm went off. That would solve the little boy getting stuck problem, but like Slammed67 said, you could just lower it yourself and cut off the power. But I guess thats not as trick as walking away and hearing chirp chirp pssssssssssssss.

Note to self... read thread more closely next time. Re my previous post, this is much easier (and a more logical action). Just use the first relay to dump the air by using the door lock output to trigger the relay. Caveat-- make sure your alarm doesn't have an auto-lock feature when you start the car and/or put it in drive... or you'll go psssssssssssss when that happens too. (If that is the case, you can use a second relay to disable the first relay functionality any time the ignition is on.)

[53 Chevy]

Teflon tape was designed to go on stainless pipe to lubricate the threads and prevent galling. Also, it will get in valves and things if you are not very careful. Hope this helps.

[Shev]

The destructions on my Slam bags say this:
"Install air fitting with Loctite 565, or a similar liquid sealant only. Over tightening of the air fitting will result in damage to the air port and/or cause leaks.
Do not use Teflon tape, it will cause you to over tighten the air fitting"

Best bet is to follow recommendations...

[lofly'a]

let's correct something, teflon tape comes in two varieties, one for stainless pipe fittings, and one for all other metals. the standard variety can be used with stainless but is not as thick and more likely to cause galling. i too am in instrumentation and fitting air operated instruments for the last 17 years and have been to quite a few schools and seminars about proper fitment of sensitive components that operate as high as 500 psi. thread lockers (i.e. loctite) was developed for bolts, and although some may have reapplied it for other usages that is not the intent of this product. it also comes in different varieties for different applcations so "if" you use it know that there is more than one.

[Shev]

For the record Loctite 565 is a thread sealer...not a thread locker. Loctite makes alot of stuff besides thread locking stuff...

[TIMSPEED]

When in doubt. J.B. Weld it!

[lofly'a]

point taken shev, guess i need to stop using trade names so much. it is a bane of our society to use names (ie...want a "coke") and i hope everyone got the clarity of my post.

[Slammed67]

So from all the above replies, it appears that the best way to prevent leaks is to use Loctite565, teflon tape, teflon paste, pipe thread compound, or silicone....... and in extreme cases, JB Weld

[grnddwn]

That 3M fuser body glue should do it