The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-09-2002, 12:53 PM   #1
nosto
Flamin' Bass
 
nosto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Galloway, NJ, US
Posts: 315
Post Cab corner replacement - how to hold 'em down?

Before welding 'em in.

I am looking for ideas for holding the cab corners in place so I can tack weld them in. Can't use the visegrip type clamps, especially on the back side, and could only use one of them at the front (in the door jamb, near where the rear of the rocker attaches).

I can hold it in place using 2 or 3 hands and it fits tight.

BTW: I am not using the full patch piece; I cut off the top 4" (just below the body line) partly because it didn't match up with the existing cab indents and partly because the corner was only rotted at the bottom 5".

Anyone use 'clecko-locs' with a backing piece of sheetmetal?

Thanks,
Rick


------------------
Absecon, NJ

1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto finally done!
1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable
1982 HD XLH-1000
1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, headers, Flowmasters, Edelbrock, 600 Holley, 3/4 drop - in a million pieces
See some pieces at:
www.freephoto-i.net
username nosto53
__________________
Rick Olson /nosto/
Galloway, NJ

Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53

1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed
1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable
1982 HD XLH-1000
1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!
nosto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2002, 01:14 PM   #2
JimKshortstep4x4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Muskegon,MI,USA
Posts: 6,026
Post

In addition to clamps, vise grips, etc. we use self tapping screws, (small 1/4" hex head
3/4" long). The system works well and we weld up the screw holes which gives more
stiffness. Obviously this will not work if you want to butt weld.

Jim
__________________
1971 Shortbox step side 4x4, 350 sbc, 3:07 rear end
1965 Impala SS 400 sbc, Muncie rock crusher
1966 Impala SS 396 bbc, TH 400
1969 El Camino, 350 sbc, TH 350
1971 Snowplow built on a Blazer frame
1972 GMC Short bed, stepside, TH 400, 427 BBC
JimKshortstep4x4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2002, 01:18 PM   #3
bobs409
1969 Custom 30 wrecker
 
bobs409's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Pottsville, Pa
Posts: 2,611
Post

It's a bit odd but I've already held the part in place with my left hand and did a quick tack weld with the right. A few of them will do the job.

I don't even bother with the welding helmet. I just close my eyes for that job. LOL

I've already used masking tape to help hold a part in place until I tacked it but probably wouldn't work well on the cab corner.

They sell magnets to help hold the part too. That might work.

------------------
63 Impala*66 Chevelle SS*69 Chevelle*69 C10 Stepside*71 Cheyenne 20*72 Chevelle

Parts for sale:
http://www.angelfire.com/trek/mr409/items4sale.html

__________________
Bob

63 Impala 283/PG/3.36 (under restoration)
66 Impala 327/PG/3.36
66 Chevelle SS 409/M22/3.55
69 Chevelle 307/PG/3.08 (future restoration)
69 C10 short stepside 454/TH350/3.73
69 Custom 30 tow truck 350/4 spd/4.10 (resto done, CRUISIN TIME!)
71 Cheyenne 20 fleetside 350/4 spd/4.10
71 Chevelle 6/PG/3.08
72 Chevelle 454/M21/4.10
bobs409 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2002, 01:22 PM   #4
ebfabman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 2,488
Post

clecos with 2 washers works good(one on the inside, one on the outside)this works good if you are going to butt weld too. There is also a screw type of cleco that you can use more pressure if needed.
ebfabman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2002, 01:34 PM   #5
NSANE68!!!
SLICER AND DICIER
 
NSANE68!!!'s Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Quuen Creek
Posts: 1,383
Post

I use the magnet method. Works pretty good.
__________________
01 Tahoe 22's 2/4 drop and tv's
68 chevy money pit
51 chevy belair
95 Honda 900RR
05 GMC Siearra (company truck)
NSANE68!!! is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2002, 01:39 PM   #6
tom hand
CCRider
 
tom hand's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Olive Branch,MS,USA
Posts: 2,232
Post

When I did mine I only used part of the patch like you are talking about. I started at the door jam with one small tack weld then lined it up. Then did another tack an inch away. Every time I would do another tack weld I would line up the part that was an inch away while it was still hot. Once you start going around the curve it gets harder, but then you hammer it in place while it is still hot. If you go with this method the prettiest part that requires the least amount of finishing body work will be showing, and the part that requires most[the part you had to hammer]will be hidden by bed.
Unless you are some kind of artist it will require some bodyfiller when you are thru. The main thing is to make a strong repair.

------------------
72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail
Olive Branch MS

__________________
72 GMC Sierra SWB almost finished---- 84 Softail
Olive Branch MS
tom hand is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2002, 06:19 PM   #7
nosto
Flamin' Bass
 
nosto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Galloway, NJ, US
Posts: 315
Post

Thanks for the ideas! There's sure no lack of good info here.

My magnets weren't able to hold the whole thing in place. The tack, hold, tack, hold sounds like it might work here.

Rick
__________________
Rick Olson /nosto/
Galloway, NJ

Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53

1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed
1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable
1982 HD XLH-1000
1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!
nosto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2002, 08:04 PM   #8
Cheyenne Super
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Efland, NC
Posts: 303
Post

what is a cleco lock?
__________________
1971 Cheyenne Super
Soon to be converted to '68 front clip.
Efland, NC
Cheyenne Super is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2002, 12:29 AM   #9
stllookn
Saving 1 truck at a time!
 
stllookn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 6,465
Post

I love these magnets...they are cheap ($2.00 on sale) quick and reusable! Just my 0.02!

------------------
If it weren't for all the mistakes I made...this would be a part time job!


__________________
'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400
'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets
'72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip)
'69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary)
stllookn is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2002, 08:06 AM   #10
ebfabman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 2,488
Post

these are clecos (sorry for the bad pics)


ebfabman is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com