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02-27-2005, 02:32 AM | #1 |
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Frame Cleanup
I was thinking about starting on the frame cleanup once the cab is off and at the blasters. I snapped some pics. What do yo guys think? It doesnt look too bad and it appears to all be surface rust if that.
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02-27-2005, 02:34 AM | #2 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
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i got a red x on this side
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
02-27-2005, 02:38 AM | #3 |
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Its fixed now.
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02-27-2005, 02:40 AM | #4 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
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yes it is. it should clean up
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
02-27-2005, 02:43 AM | #5 |
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Looks like it would. I took my cordless drill out with a small wirewheel and cleaned up a 2 inch spot in about a minute. Grinder with a sanding disk should make short work out of it. Or I can get it blasted as well. Thats something to think about. But if I do that then that means I would have to powder coat it. heheh
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02-27-2005, 02:47 AM | #6 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
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you could have the whole thing blasted, it would be faster, but then sand is in every joint. just something to think about
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
02-27-2005, 02:50 AM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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02-27-2005, 02:52 AM | #8 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
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Location: Newberg, OR
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dont forget your PPE (safty glasses, gloves, and some muffs...............for your ears) and dont go too crazy and buy plenty of wheels
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
02-27-2005, 02:53 AM | #9 |
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Will do. Whats ppe?
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02-27-2005, 02:59 AM | #10 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
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personal protection equipment. sorry 'bout the abbv. in my aperenticeship we spent 16 hours on it. not fun, but it sticks with ya
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
02-27-2005, 03:00 AM | #11 |
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personel protective equipment
VV
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02-27-2005, 03:00 AM | #12 |
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No problem. Now I know. Btw how do you remove the bed? Is it 6 bolts or 4?
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02-27-2005, 03:01 AM | #13 |
Got Light Emitting Diode?
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4 and the wiring harness
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1968 1/2 ton 2wd lwb 6 lug disc and bags up front. Next c notch and rear bags '02 Chevy Silverado LT ext cab short bed 2WD 5/7 drop on 22's(the family car) 1993 Cherokee work ride/weekend wheeler |
02-27-2005, 08:19 AM | #14 |
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I believe it's 6 bolts at least. I know my shortbeds have 6.
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02-27-2005, 04:31 PM | #15 |
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my longbed was four bolts.You'll use some degreaser on the oily spots I assume?The blaster that is doing my frame warned me about greasy spots.He said if it wasn't cleaned up,there was a chance that the blasting could force the sludge into the metal and affect the finish.This sound like a real concern or was he blowin smoke up my wazzoo?
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02-27-2005, 05:14 PM | #16 | |
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02-27-2005, 05:20 PM | #17 |
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well, from my experience.. you may want to estimate the amount of time it will take you to sand the frame (long time) and multiply this times what you earn per hour at your job. This will give you idea how much it's worth for you to do. Then call a blaster and find out that it is really cheap to have them do it, and save you the hassle. I found the price out and could've died, when I realized how freaking long it took me to do it by hand! As I get older, I try to conserve my limited energy for the more kewl (and more expensive) tasks. JMHO though.
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02-27-2005, 05:40 PM | #18 |
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I agree with saxmo
You are gonna get plenty tired of grinding and wire wheeling by hand . I am doing that on my vette and the only reason is I don't want to do a frame off
restoration. Unless you have infinite patience you will never get the frame as good as the sandblaster can. We had a cabinet blaster at work and they wouldn't touch anything with any grease or oil on it because it gummed up the media and the vacumming system. There might be something in what Rollie said about it affecting the paint finish, but I think it's just the blasters way of making sure it's clean. Vettevet
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02-27-2005, 05:59 PM | #19 |
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the frame needs to be degreased, before blasting.....the sand doesnt work well with grease! for the amount of time with a wire wheel(been there, & done that), i would opt for the blaster! as far as the bolts in the box.....my longhorn had 10 from the factory......its been a while since i did an 8' bed truck, but i am pretty sure you will be dealing with 8 bolts , to remove the box.......69L
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02-27-2005, 05:54 PM | #20 |
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Thanks for the great info. I think I will do this. Once I have the cab at the blasters I will take off the bed and pic a spot and see how longs it takes me. The guy who does the media blasting for me does a lot of older cars and he may let me use some space in his building while he does the cab so I can take off the bed so he can get to the frame. That brings up a question. The engine is in the truck. Can you mask off a engine and blast around it?
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RIP to my son Dylan. 5/17/2002 - 8/18/2018 If you want to know more about rare forms of pediatric cancer or if you want to help fund pediatric cancer research, please check out the website for the non-profit I started. https://slothforpedcancer.org 68 build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=223234 |
02-27-2005, 06:26 PM | #21 |
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it appears that every "been there done that" guy says take it to the Blaster...
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02-27-2005, 06:36 PM | #22 | |
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03-01-2005, 01:31 PM | #23 |
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Blast it! I went with a 10 gal pressurized blaster, frame probably took me 8 hours to do right, not counting setup and reloading sand. In that ten hours I probably refiled the blaster at least 20 times! Cost for the blaster and sand was about the same as the going rate for hiring it done around here, but now I own the blaster and have 60 gallons of sand to blast other parts of the truck, suspension parts etc. I found the blasting really fun, taking a rusty crappy part and making it clean again. Like others said, get the grease buildup areas clean before blasting. Note you do need good air supply to run even a small blaster, I worked the hell out of the 80gal 12hp 2 stage compressor at my shop while blasting.
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02-27-2005, 09:23 PM | #24 |
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I blasted the bed on mine. Just can't see spending all that time with a grinder over my head. My neck and back were sore enough just from blasting it. For the curious ones I made a jig out of 4X4s and lots of bracing. Lifted the bed about 6 feet up and stood under it to do all the blasting. Those beds really aren't all that heavy.
As an aside note, the long bed should have 8 bolts holding it to the frame. |
02-27-2005, 11:37 PM | #25 |
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I'm one " been there, done that" guy who doesn't have a problem with wire wheel stripping. I did both my frame and Cab with a wire wheel. I have to admit if I could have had either done for the prices I hear mentioned on the board I would have had them sandblasted.
The way I look at it is four hours hauling it to the blasters and back even if the trips only 15 minutes ( just the frame or cab) and probably at least $750 CDN. Basically a Grand for the Cab or frame in time and cost. I make good money but I think sandblasters in my neck of the woods make more, and I'd rather be messing with my truck than working to pay him. I calculated approx eight hours work to strip my cab to metal and I only wore out one wire wheel, the frame was less time. I don't deny sandblasting is the ultimate but I think it's overpriced in my area and I have more money than time right now, but I still wire wheel.
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