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03-17-2005, 10:53 PM | #1 |
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Kill Switch
Sorry if this one's been done over but- you know- no search button...
What wire on the ignition should I splice into for a kill switch? There's been a rash of auto thefts around here lately. Thanks.
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69 C-10 LWB, 350, 700r4, 3.73 posi-traction, front disc brakes. Built for the desert- She can take the heat! Vivat Rex Chevus! |
03-18-2005, 12:38 AM | #2 |
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Pink wire off of switch will kill the dist. power or the purple wire off switch will kill the starter power.
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03-18-2005, 11:06 AM | #3 |
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I would kill the dizzy. That way you might HEAR the guy trying to steal your truck....turning it over..and over....and over....
He would be less likely to suspect (and look for) a kill switch if the truck is "trying" to start. If he jumps the wire and nothing happens, he would start looking for the kill switch. If you are cutting it in the cab, cut it as far AWAY from the ignition switch as possible and make it blend into the harness if you can. I mean, make it hard to locate if he is in a hurry. (I will also suggest the "in-cab" hood release....I know a guy who can help you with that..*hint*hint*)
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03-20-2005, 02:02 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
Thanks JC
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03-18-2005, 02:31 PM | #5 |
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Insurance company said a kill switch and in cab hood release would lower my insurance. Just my .02
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'72 C-10 w/ '68 Large Journal 327cu.in. "It's o.k. to dream about what you want to do, until you start doing what you are meant to do." Line from "The Rookie" |
03-18-2005, 02:48 PM | #6 |
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What are you going to use for the switch? Something custom or a kit? Just something that would be neato on my truck too
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1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree |
03-18-2005, 03:37 PM | #7 |
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i just put a simple toggle switch in-line with my 12 volt hei power lead and hid it under the dash. not fool proof but should slow them down long enough for me to grab the benelli.
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03-18-2005, 04:38 PM | #8 |
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I remember reading an article a long time ago, that described an interesting kill switch setup.
All the wiring was left original, but they cut the power lead INSIDE the HEI that goes to the coil, and ran a lead off of each of those. They drilled a hole in the back of the coil cover and ran those two leads thru that into the cab. They were hidden from view if you looked at the dizzy. They then connected those two wires inside the cab with a fuse, and then off of that, ran a wire with a switch to ground AFTER the fuse. What happens is that if you flick the switch on, you ground the power, and blow the fuse, so even if they find the switch, they still cannot start the truck until they find the blown fuse and replace it. The owner just has to flick the switch on before getting out of the truck, and remember to flick it off before starting it (or replce the fuse) The neat thing about this idea was, that even if someone runs a hot lead to the HEI from the battery to steal it, the fuse will still blow, and the truck will not start, and they will not know why it has no spark. I know, I know, grounding straight to power is not a good idea, but if it is done right, and the owner remembers to use the switch, the only time that wire will get hot is when someone tries to steal it, and the fuse will blow. JB |
03-20-2005, 01:06 PM | #9 |
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Thanks for all the input. How about this: I tap into the distributer wire but instead of a switch I use a couple of fuses. Blown fuses in place of a good ones. One that's real easy to find and one that's not This way the low life scum splices around the easy fuse, thinks he's got it and gets screwed again- Maybe starts thinking about how much time this is taking?
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69 C-10 LWB, 350, 700r4, 3.73 posi-traction, front disc brakes. Built for the desert- She can take the heat! Vivat Rex Chevus! Last edited by Zonaman; 03-20-2005 at 01:36 PM. |
03-20-2005, 01:38 PM | #10 |
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I've designed an electronic unit that will kill the starter and distributor seperately and give you alternating flashing LEDs. I designed it to fit into small spaces and be very discrete. I have it on the test bench at home but I'm waiting for spring break to get over so I can test it some more at school. As soon as I have a woking prototype I'll install it into Screamin and test it fully
Last edited by screamin_c102; 03-20-2005 at 02:10 PM. |
03-20-2005, 02:10 PM | #11 |
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hood release is in the FAQ page. just my .02, I'd kill the starter, not the dizz. If you forget to flip the switch and turn it over long enough the engine/exhaust will load with fuel. THen you go "oh, I forgot to hit the kill switch" and blow your mufflers off.
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03-21-2005, 01:59 AM | #12 |
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I still like the idea of the 3 way switch and a second coil that is connected to the ignition, shifter, steering column etc. Theif trys to start the truck, theif gets zapped.
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03-21-2005, 02:21 AM | #13 |
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my uncle told me that he once had a vehicle that he put 3 or 4 three way toggle switches in it and you had to know which way to put each one or you could not start it, i think he was telling me that was on his old 53 chevy
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03-21-2005, 02:25 AM | #14 |
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LOL Imagine the look on some car theif's face....Turn the key and BAM! 12 volts! Would be really nice if you could run that through a few capacitors so the discharge could be enough to knock out or potentially hurt the theif. Anything to incapacitate them so you can ... uh ... take appropriate measures, be that shooting them (As many here have voiced interest in doing in other threads) or calling the cops. I personally like the idea of macing them from head to toe
I bumped into a local restaurant owner a few blocks from my house while having a meal with my girl on friday. He just had his '72 Orange/White LWB Super Cheyenne stolen from his front yard. He spent $12,000 restoring almost every part of the truck to the point that the only original VIN was on the frame or something. (Anyone seen something similar on eBay recently?) I felt really bad for the guy and it's really driving it home that I need to get off my ass and thief-proof my truck. I think my only saving grace right now is I've still got 3spd on the column. MT vehicles are stolen less because theifs don't know how to drive anything but automatics these days. I really, really like that idea muddpile
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03-22-2005, 01:21 AM | #15 |
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I'd do it in a second if I could be sure that I could do it and not send a bunch of power into my grounds and either start a fire or fry some of the wiring. The column shifter would be the obvious place in my opinion, but if I recall correctly it is a ground, and that would pose a problem. It has to be something the theif is going to touch when they attempt to steal it. The screams of pain would act as a good alarm too!
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03-22-2005, 10:48 AM | #16 | |
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Quote:
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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03-22-2005, 11:14 AM | #17 |
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One of my auto tech instructors suggested routing the kill switch through the bottom of the ash tray. Leave it open with a wad of really nasty looking kleenex stuffed over it. Another fellow suggested that since some crooks reach under the ignition switch without looking for the wires, it might be a nice touch to secure several razor blades around them. Probably get sued for violating the "civil rights" of an auto thief though.
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69 C-10 LWB, 350, 700r4, 3.73 posi-traction, front disc brakes. Built for the desert- She can take the heat! Vivat Rex Chevus! Last edited by Zonaman; 03-22-2005 at 11:17 AM. |
03-22-2005, 11:38 AM | #18 |
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I live in a area with very little auto theft but it does still happen. On my 67 I took a heavy duty momentary contact switch and mounted it behind my ashtray. I ran the HEI wire to it, and now it will only start with the ashtray all the way in. Also, securing the hood and a locking gas cap are GOOD ideas
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03-22-2005, 03:10 PM | #19 |
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Has anybody used the hoodlock/starter disable that JC Whitney sells. I haven't bought/used it, but I thought I might try it later.
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