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#1 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Okay, so this turned into the weekend from hell.
The HEI swap in the truck today was a failure. To make matters worse, the driver's side door was wide open and pinned my girlfriend's arm against a 4"x4" support for my back deck when the truck rolled backwards a bit b/c the e-brake wasn't set all the way. We're not sure if it's broken, but it bruised really badly within a few minutes. Now the door won't shut correctly. The truck won't start. Need help with both. Door: I need to understand what the problem is. There is no clear sign of damage to the cab...so I guess maybe the hinge is bent? I'm not sure. Kinda pissed about the door, but at least it didn't get ripped off completely. Basically, the 'block' that the latch catches is sitting too far towards the front of the truck. HEI swap: Man, I'm lost. I'm getting both spark and gas, so I guess the timing is off. I swear I'm doing everything right ![]() If you know what happens when you open your door too far or if you have suggestions about the timing or what happened to the door, I would like to hear it. Should I take the door off by the hinges to see if there is damage to the cab? ![]() I hoped this weekend would produce better results. This sucks.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#2 |
The LuvShack Garage
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Maple Grove, TN (West Side)
Posts: 30,477
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Man That Sucks, I Wish I Could Help But I'm No Expert By Anymeans
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Owner/Op: "TN Classic Transport Carriers" The Toy: "Square Vette" 72 Hybrid Blazer Toy Barn: "LuvShack" 40 x 60 x 20 Shop Tow Piggy:"Maddy" 88 Silverado 3500 Hauler: "Feathers" 14 Aluma 8218T |
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#3 |
All Go, No Show
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Creighton SK
Posts: 286
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Just a shot in the dark but did you know that #1 on points type dist. and #1 on HEI are in different locations? You probably checked that. As for the door, no friggin clue.
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69 LWB Rebuilt 283, aluminum intake, edelbrock carb, Mild Melling Cam, HEI. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Plymouth, MA
Posts: 891
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Also, make sure you are not 180 degrees out on the distributor. If you are, it will turnover like mad, sound normal, but not start.
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1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Bay Area, California
Posts: 995
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take care of the girl first, she will help you through the rest.
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1971 Chevy C10 Shortbed Stepside, 307v8 3-on-the-tree |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Knoxville Tenn.
Posts: 3,058
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When you say "#1 cylinder" are refering to the cylinder it's self or #1 terminal on dist. cap?
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56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer |
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#7 | ||
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Quote:
Quote:
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#8 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field
Posts: 5,597
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To H3ll with the truck, is you lady friend okay?
Do you have power to the new dizzy? I ran a jumper from the battery to the HEI in my 250/6, just to be sure I was getting power to it. The door? it may have bent the door hinges. |
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#9 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Yes, for everyone that asked, she is ok (we think). She just got back from Vancouver - she had to manage making a commercial for Cingular. She came back with either Bronchitis or Pneumonia. Got a doctor friend (never thought I'd say that!) coming over tomorrow to check her out for the sickness. We'll have her arm looked at also.
DT: I gotta have power to the dizzy. No power == No spark. I'm definitely getting a spark. I will try to do the battery thing tomorrow. I thought about that tonight, but ... I had to cook dinner for the woman (homemade creamy tomato soup + grilled cheese + beer...great way to fight a cold!) I can give it a try tomorrow, but I wanted to post here and get some thoughts. I'm totally lost ![]()
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#10 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Colfax-California
Posts: 8,552
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Power to the dizzy while cranking, and just the key on right? Want to make sure the wiring from the inside is correct. Double check the timing, if you haven't already could be off 1 tooth.
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#11 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field
Posts: 5,597
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So you have spark and fuel, but it's not firing off? Even if you are 180 degrees off, you should get a spit and spudder. Makes me wonder about the carb.
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#12 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Only power to the dizzy when key is turned forward, yes. Not constant power. Double check the timing how?
__________________
If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#13 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Brand new carb. It worked previously.
Something I left out: every dozen or so turnovers of the starter I hear a ginel spitting sound, sounds almost like air forcing out of something. I haven't been able to locate it yet.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#14 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field
Posts: 5,597
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Are you sure you have spark coming out of the plugs?
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#15 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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I stuck a screwdriver in the plug wire for #4. I held the screwdriver shaft near a ground source and it sparked, then it knocked the living crap out of me when I moved it away. If it's not sparking, then I have a very active imagination
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#16 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Shadow of Lambeau Field
Posts: 5,597
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LOL, I use a jumper wire that I stick in to the end of the plug wire that is long enough for me to hold and crank the truck at the same time. I got usd to feeling the heartbeat of a Chevy!!! LOL
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#17 | |
fixer of 72 GMC LWB
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Newnan GA
Posts: 111
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Quote:
The HEI, it sounds like its not in the right position... it doesn't take much as @ 800 rpm thats 13 up and down motions a second... it is a pain but in the end it'll be worth the effort as long as you don't hurt or break anything else... |
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 17
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Sorry to here about your girlfriend, I hope that she is alright.
Did your install new plug wires, or are using old used ones that came with your HEI? If they are a used set check them with a ohm meter, to make sure that they are good. While trying to start your truck try rotating the dizzy (advancing and retartding) and see if the truck fires. I hope that this helps. |
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#19 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Yoncalla Oregon
Posts: 775
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OK first you need to pull the cap on the dizzy and set it aside.
Rotate the engine with your finger in the #1 plug hole. The pressure at top dead center will push out your finger and let out a hiss. Look at your balancer and verify that your timing mark is at 0 degrees. If it isnt then back your engine up by hand using the fan or a bar. Now see where your rotor is pointing and mark the outside of distributor at the spot where the rotor is pointing. Install the cap and verify that one of your plug towers is lined up with the mark you just made(you can turn the dizzy slightly if needed). This is now you #1 post, start your firing order from that point, working your way around the distributor. Remember you want the compression to push your finger out hard. You can be 180 out (exhaust stroke) and still feel a push, but it will be weak. Good Luck with this and your lady..... Last edited by screamin_c102; 03-27-2005 at 01:36 AM. |
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#20 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Will do, skii. It's raining outside here in ATL right now, so I can't go out and check (everyone is asleep too
![]() screamin - I did exactly that when starting up. I turned the cooling fan until my finger wasn't getting sucked in anymore. I rotated the fan just a hair more until it barely pushed my finger, then noticed the line on the HB was near the 0 mark. So, I finished lining it up to zero and went from there.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 03-27-2005 at 01:37 AM. |
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#21 | |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Yoncalla Oregon
Posts: 775
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Quote:
You could be on the exhaust stroke (180 out) the piston is still moving up during this stroke but the exhaust valve will be opening. It will still push your finger just not as much. Remember tht the cranks spins twice to the cam spinning once, thats why you can have the pointer lined up with 0TDC on the marker and still be 180 degrees (1/2 a revolution) out of time. |
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#22 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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It's possible I could be out by 180, I guess. Would it just be easier to take the valve cover off and look at it this way? It would only take an extra 10 minutes to do this. I have a spare cork one-piece felpro gasket to replace the existing one.
I hope I haven't messed anything in the engine up from my attempts.
__________________
If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#23 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Yoncalla Oregon
Posts: 775
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Na those sixes are bulletproof. If you pull the valve cover make sure to watch the #1 intake and exhaust valves. Once both valves are closed and the pointer is on 0 there is no room for argument, thats TDC.
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#24 |
Designated A-hole!
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: South Mississippi
Posts: 36,450
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Quickest way to check for 180 out is to put the #1 wire on the post opposite the one it's on now and wire the dizzy with that as the starting point. If you were 180 out, now your dead on!
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"If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. ![]() We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck" |
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#25 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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so ... you're saying ... with my current 153624 setup, swap it to be a 624153?
![]() someone told me a perverse way to remember the firing order on my engine tonight. 15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right. ![]()
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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