Por-15 help...

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Has anyone ever used por-15 over bondoed area's??? Did it turnout ok or did the bondo and por-15 have a reaction????

[shifty]

Don't use POR-15. Use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. No primer or other BS necessary and it coats evenly every time. www.eastwoodco.com

Most people I know that restore classics swear by Eastwood's products over POR-15

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Ya but I already have por-15 and have used it on frames and chassis componets in the past just was not sure about the bondo??

[Longhorn Man]

You use primer under POR? POR... Paint Over Rust.
I have never tried it over filler, but I would think it'd do ok. It's only on the smooth surfaces that POR had problems sticking.

[Fred T]

It will stick to the bondo better than the bondo sticks to the metal.

[7T2]

Originally Posted by Fred T

It will stick to the bondo better than the bondo sticks to the metal.

LOL.


I have used both products, and I will say this:

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator is an excellent product. I applied it to a frame with a brush, and you would never know it was brushed on. It skins out to however good your prepared surface is.

POR-15 seems to work OK, I did a firewall and floorboards with it, but it really takes ALL the preparation that they recommend for it. Despite being very carful, I continue to have contamination problems with unused product, rendering it useless. Yes, I followed the numerous precautions.

POR-15 Engine Paint gives a nice, bright finish, but due to its high pigment content it takes FOREVER to dry. I don't have any experience yet as to how it holds up on a hot, possibly leaking engine.

Eastwood Chassis Black just plain sucks. I hope other people have more luck with it than I have had. Again, I followed their instructions, and even applied it over their rust encapsulator, and I am less than impressed with the results. ANY metal to metal contact has the Chassis Black flaking off in sheets. At least one good thing about POR-15 is you can pretty much hit it with a hammer and it's not going anywhere (on the other hand, you can't take it out in the sun - take your pick.)

Keep in mind, I'm not a professional body man, just an average joe trying to make something worthwhile in my garage. If you're a weekend warrior your results will probably be the same.

Something I haven't tried yet is POR-15 over top of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Barring any weird chemical reactions, I would think that would be an inpenetrable combo. The encapsulator would maybe eliminate some of the outrageous prep work required for POR-15.

[WRMZ71]

According to the instructions you are supposed to use filler over the top of the por 15
I layed some POR 15 on the floor of my cab this weekend and one spot had some fiberglass and I didn't have any coating problems. The only coating problems I have are with the darn topcoat. That stuff is so fidgety its rediculous. Can't say how scratch resistant it is yet cause i really haven't attempted to scratch it.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by WRMZ71

According to the instructions you are supposed to use filler over the top of the por 15
I layed some POR 15 on the floor of my cab this weekend and one spot had some fiberglass and I didn't have any coating problems. The only coating problems I have are with the darn topcoat. That stuff is so fidgety its rediculous. Can't say how scratch resistant it is yet cause i really haven't attempted to scratch it.

Longhorn: Yeah, it's not a primer - it's like a metal prep or something. One thing you'll note about me - I always seem to use the wrong words in print and come across the wrong way.

WRMZ71: I can't tell you how many examples I've seen of POR-15 bubbling and popping. It's hard to get the topcoat to lay flat and I've even seen the stuff warp with excessive heat (this is not in reference to the POR engine coat)

POR-15 is an inferior product for body work. I can't preach this enough.

[WRMZ71]

Shifty - They say in the directions the bubbling is caused by laying the topcoat on too soon. It is caused by the Carbon dioxide gases being released by the sealer (por 15) getting trapped by the topcoat. Thats the problem with the topcoat. They say 3 - 4 hrs wait time but try maybe 1/2 hr. Its supposed to be tacky yet won't leave paint when touched. I did that and it doesn't want to coat, but if you wait a scosh longer it goes on alright.

[shifty]

I've seen people wait 48 hours and still get bubbles....Here's what confuses me: Why should it take that many layers of product? Why should you even be able to GET bubbles? Why can't they just make a single product that you just spray in one coat and it gets the job done? Other people do.

Eastwood's rust encapsulator has been proven time and time again to work better, lay flat every time with no serious prep - best of all, it's a one-step process: Point and shoot. They sell it in shaker cans too for people who dont' have sprayers. Hell, it costs less also.

I guess I just don't understand why eople use POR-15. I was introduced to the product when I shaved everything on my '03 GMC Sierra SLE after someone told me POR-15 was the way to go w/my '70Impala. I wish someone had told me about Eastwood's products back then. They're a life and a timesaver.

That's not me trying to badmouth anyone using the product - but I'd rather use the product that works better, takes less effort to use and costs less money.

[shifty]

Hey - you want to see the difference? I just went to the Eastwood website.

Here is a really disturbing article that came out of Auto Restorer magazine from November 2003 where they did a complete, honest and fair comparison of both products:

http://eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemI...88&iSubCat=852

It's a good read. It talks about the problems of POR-15 versus Eastwood's rust encapsulator product that I've been using. It shows examples of both products, their fault, how they are applied, why they work, how they work, etc.

[WRMZ71]

I totally agree. For the price that the por 15 costs I"m not totally impressed by the product at all. I haven't had the bubbling problem but the coating problem raises concerns and the bottom of the cab I had already did and it doesn't seem to be much scratch resistant but I'm thinking thats because I didn't get it stirred not shaken properly

[4x4Poet]

POR15 doesn't work well over non-moisture curing paints/coatings that have not fully cured because the solvents will bleed thru the POR15 and ruin its application, to some degree.

I like POR15 for rusted areas and frames. I've used Eastwood's stuff too. I like both for different reasons and uses. I'm still learning what is best for each application. One thing I always like is when I can apply one or the other with a brush so I don't have to deal with overspray. That convenience often outweighs other considerations.

[7T2]

Just thought I would let everyone know, Someone from Eastwood read about my bad experience with their product above (Chassis Black), emailed me and is sending me some of their new "Extreme Chassis Black" to try out for free. I thought that was pretty cool of them, as the experience I wrote about was well over two years ago. I'll be sure and post my results with the new product as soon as I get time to experiment with it.

For the record, that was the only bad experience I have had with something from Eastwood, and would not hesitate to recommend them to others. Everything else I have gotten from them has been top notch and, like I said, the Encapsulator ("Corroless" when I bought it) is a fantastic product, in my opinion. Apparently they have upgraded that product too, and I just ordered some of that as well. It now comes in black (used to be a red oxide color) and I don't think it needs to be top-coated anymore.

[stllookn]

Very cool that some vendors are reading this site and trying to help out their customers. Thanks for sharing that with us! I am going to try their products as well.

[chevybill]

I have used por 15 on the frame and suspension of my 70 c 10 lwb.
In my opinion, it is best described as powercoating in a can you can brush on.

It works excellent on rusted metal seems to be very durable- even after reassembling front suspension with a coil spring compressor.

Stand up well to my floor jack and jackstands, from my understanding it should not be exposed to the sun for long periods of time or it will fade.

I have not established an opinion for durability yet, but I will.

[BubbaGreen]

Not to steal the thread, but has anyone tried the new product from eastwood, called the "Extreme Chassis Black" primer/top coat combo....seems like an awesome combination of a product. I am seriously considering applying this to a freshly sand-blasted frame and would like to hear from anyone with experience. THX

[7T2]

Originally Posted by BubbaGreen

Not to steal the thread, but has anyone tried the new product from eastwood, called the "Extreme Chassis Black" primer/top coat combo....seems like an awesome combination of a product. I am seriously considering applying this to a freshly sand-blasted frame and would like to hear from anyone with experience. THX

That's what Eastwood is sending me, but I'm moving at the end of the month so I'm not sure how soon I can offer up any opinions on application and durability.

[shifty]

Interesting, I got an email from Eastwood also.

Has anyone gotten an email from POR-15 people? Hmmm... heh.

Kinda says something about how much Eastwood cares about their customers if they actually hire a person to touch base with us "regular people" of the world who use it.

Pretty cool!