4" Lift Steering Correction??

[72longbed]

I'm installing a Tuff Country 4" EZ-Ride suspension on my 71 K20 and need some experienced answers. First of all, will I experience 'Bump Steer' with 4 inches of lift and a stock steering arm? Next, my factory drag link components are all a rusted 'lump' of metal, so they need to be replaced. I'm wondering if a 'Dropped' drag link would be an answer rather than try to wrestle that steering arm off of that 34 year old knuckle? I have read opinions that dropped drag links don't correct 'bump steer'? Does anyone know for sure with our 67-72 4x4's?

Thanks,
72longbed

[Mudder]

I do have a 77 frame but all I did was install a 4" raised arm and I have never had any bump steer.

[bodazpa]

I have about the same results a mudder. I only have a 4'' raised arm on my 71, and have never had a single problem. I put a steering stabilizer on, but I didn't notice any difference. John

[JIMs70GMC]

ditto, the steering arm gets the drag link level and minimizes bump steer. The dropped drag link cost almost 3 times as much, but the relationship between the pitman arm and steering arm still is at an angle and does nothing for bump steer only puts the drag link ends back in normal positioning.

[CHEVYJEFF]

on my 90 blazer w/ a 4" lift i had to use a drop pitman arm from skyjacker. I had bad bumpsteer w/ the raised steering arm. it all depends on the truck.

[Yukon Jack]

I had bump steer with my 4" lift prior to adding an adjustable drop drag link. It solved my problem on my 69 K20. A dropped steering arm is not available for the closed knuckle frontend - that is why I had to go the drag link route.

[72longbed]

YukonJack and Everybody else,
what brand dropped draglink did you buy?? I'm leaning more towards the draglink replacement because of the 'horror' stories that I have heard when trying to remove a 34 year old steering arm from the knuckle. The knuckles are off the axle tube right now waiting for new upper and lower ball joints.

Any info on ALL of the available dropped draglinks would be a great help. Websites, etc.........

Thanks alot,
72longbed

[Yukon Jack]

Mine is a Superlift that I bought through www.offroaddesign.com.

I believe there is one for sale in the parts section over at www.ck5.com right now that you ought to look in to - just looked, looks like a few in line for it - it was a bargain http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113464

[1972]

I would never use a dropped draglink. They tend to "twist" back and forth as you turn you steering wheel because of the drop in them. A dropped pitman arm (the one on your steering box) works well with a 4" lift, and is what I would recommend. Many trucks will have bumpsteer with a raised steering arm and a 4" lift. The trick is to have your draglink run parallel to your spring arch, not parallel to the ground.

Here is a pic of mine with about 7" of lift and a factory pitman arm and drag link with a raised steering arm. The draglink is at a large angle, but close to parallel with the spring, and I have ZERO bumpsteer.

[72longbed]

1972,
if I understand, you say, #1. that a dropped Draglink WILL NOT correct Bumpsteer, #2. that a dropped Pitman arm WILL correct Bumpsteer; but you didn't use the dropped Pitman arm, #3. you used the raised Steering arm instead??

You say you have NO Bumpsteer, but it's based on a raised Steering Arm, right??

Thanks for clearing this up for me please,
72longbed

[1972]

Originally Posted by 72longbed

1972,
if I understand, you say, #1. that a dropped Draglink WILL NOT correct Bumpsteer, #2. that a dropped Pitman arm WILL correct Bumpsteer; but you didn't use the dropped Pitman arm, #3. you used the raised Steering arm instead??

You say you have NO Bumpsteer, but it's based on a raised Steering Arm, right??

Thanks for clearing this up for me please,
72longbed

I'm not saying that a dropped drag will or will not cure or cause bump steer, but that it will twist when pressure is applied to it which will cause sloppy steering, which is why I would avoid them. The steering correction components used will vary depending on how much lift a truck has. A dropped pitman arm provides roughly 2" of correction and a raised steering arm provides around 4" to 5" of correction. Since you have a 4" lift I suggested a dropped pitman arm because typically it will give you a good drag link to leaf spring relationship required for no bumpsteer. My truck has around 7" of lift though, so that's why a raised steering arm works better for me. The thing to avoid is having your drag link parallel to the ground, and if you use a raised steering arm (or possibly a dropped drag link) it will be parallel to the ground. If you had factory springs the drag link would be parallel to the ground, as would be the leaf spring. You could try to use all of your factory steering stuff and see how it works. You will probably have to adjust your drag link out some to still be able to turn both left and right.

[Brewski*]

I have a 71 3/4 ton GMC. I had a 4" skyjerker lift. With the 4" raised arm it would way understeer and bumpsteer everywhere. I went back to stock arm and it drove fine. These things take lots of tweaking to get right when raised.

[72longbed]

As Brewski indicates, maybe I'll just put it back together with a factory draglink setup, factory steering arm thats on there already, factory pitman arm thats on the box, and see what happens. Worse things that could happen??
1. Angle of draglink at ride height might be severe.
2. Draglink ends wear out premature.
3. Bad Bumpsteer?
What else should I look for with the stock setup in place?

Thanks,
72longbed

[geunther]

without any sort of correction you create additinoal stress on the steering box, whcih eventually cracks the frame where the steering box attaches. There are renforcements for that though. Just be aware of the possible cracking.

[1972]

Originally Posted by geunther

without any sort of correction you create additinoal stress on the steering box, whcih eventually cracks the frame where the steering box attaches. There are renforcements for that though. Just be aware of the possible cracking.

This is a known problem for '73 - '87('91) trucks, but I don't think it's an issue on '67 to '72 trucks, and I don't think frame braces are available for them either.

[geunther]

It was an issue on my 72k5. though not to point of cracking but there was frame roll. I strngthened before any cracking could occur. And you're right, there were no commercial versions available, at least at that time.

[1FaastC10]

personally, i would run a raised steering arm, and call it good. i know tone of guys running raised arms alone, with 6" springs and no stabilizer. i was going to run this setup on my 86 before i found my Dana 60. that's what the new owner will be running (cuz that's what i put on it) until he upgrades to crossover. draglink angle looks fine.