Best Rattle Can Paint? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

SWINGSAX68 · 06-13-2002, 09:20 AM

I posted about painting my interior before...I just wanted to keep it fresh...

I was wondering what the best type of Spray paint from a can is the best brand, the only ones I know of are Krylon, Rust-Oleum, and this SUV, Truck and Van ( thats all I remember from the can) are these recommended? Let me know.
Also BODY TAPE?????? Metal tape for body work? let me know!!!

johnnyp · 06-13-2002, 09:31 AM

Krylon and Rustoleum are both good brands and I've had good look with both. I like the spray nozzle on Krylon better than Rustoleum - don't get "finger fatique" as bad.

**Desert Rat** · 06-13-2002, 11:06 AM

Depends on what,brackets and pulleys get Krylon,Frame and suspensions get Rustoleum,motors get Duplicolor.I 100% stay away from the 99 cent special crap,2.50 a can for Krylon at WalMart

Mudder · 06-13-2002, 11:36 AM

plastic-kote (cant spell it) seems to last good.

Low69CST · 06-13-2002, 01:27 PM

use 3M body tape. Other brands are cheaper, but you pay for it when it comes time to remove it. Also, cheap tape is bad about falling off right in the middle of painting.

CoryM · 06-13-2002, 03:52 PM

Im with mudder, plasti-cote or whatever they call it is best. I use the engine paint for everything and it works very well. They also have the best clearcoat I have seen, very easy to apply with no drips. If you want a really neat paint check out "last blast" LB-1 cast iron paint. Add a little clearcoat over top and it looks just awesome. Think I am going to do some rims like that. The alumiblast by same co is great too.
CoryM

lukecp · 06-13-2002, 04:20 PM

I have had bad luck with Krylon, it seems to pell off pretty easy when i spray it on something, or maybe i'm just not doing a very good job of cleaning it.....
Plasti-Kote is pretty good paint too. I used some Red Devil spray paint once, and i liked it alot, i just can't seem to find it anymore

.

**Desert Rat** · 06-13-2002, 05:09 PM

You know how many times i rattle restored inside a truck.Im convinced after the last one strip its guts and sand,degrease,sand,prime,and lay it on with a gun,even a $50 cheapy gun.Might take a bit longer but looks better longer,and sanding Rustoleum off your dash in future will suck.

Stano · 06-13-2002, 10:15 PM

Ditto Rat!

**Tim Christian** · 06-13-2002, 10:41 PM

A good automotive paint store can put regular automotive paint in a can but it is like 10 bucks a can.

Longhorn Man · 06-13-2002, 10:51 PM

I think the best paint for small items like motor mounts, brackets, and the like, has to be the little tiny cans of Testors found in the model sections at Wall Mart. This stuff is awsome. The black is beutiful, very durable, and easy to use. The other colors are not quite as easy, but still well worth the effort.

SWINGSAX68 · 06-14-2002, 10:40 AM

You Think I could get away with using engine enamel.....I painted my hand brake with engine enamel cause I had nothing else....it looks good...and seems to hold well....hmmmmm....maybe.

dubie · 06-14-2002, 11:10 AM

I just posted a topic about this on the paint and body board. I was looking for interior rattle can paint suggestions for the 72. I like the way the engine enamel from plastic-kote sprays and looks, so i thought i might do the interior with that. But wanted to know if it will hold up.

**MikeB** · 06-14-2002, 12:07 PM

I use the Rust-o-leum for underhood brackets, etc., but it takes FOREVER to dry. If my wife's not home, I put the peices in the oven at 300 degrees for an hour, which usually gets the job done. Years ago, I painted an aftermarket A/C bracket with the stuff, and it still looks like new. I hear the Eastwood "chassis black" paint is very good. It's somewhere between gloss and flat and has a high solids content (means it goes a long way).

**MikeB** · 06-14-2002, 12:12 PM

One more thing -- I always use PPG DX330 wax and grease remover before sanding and then again before painting. Using it before sanding ensures you don't sand wax or grease into the paint. Just make sure you wipe off the residue with a clean rag. Similar stuff is made by Mar-hyde and 3M.

PanelDeland · 06-14-2002, 12:21 PM

Just did mine in Testors Black and Krylon grey.I like the fact that the Krylon dries fast.I had better luck with the real stuff on tape,I don't remember the brand.I used steel wool to clean the dash and door panels then a degreaser and clean water.I had to do that the second time because I tried to skate the first time and just gloss over with the steel wool.I also used the degreaser and windex on the rubber parts so the tape would adhere better.
The steel wool worked better than sandpapaer because it didn't leave any marks to cover with the paint.Strip the dash because it will look better than if you try to tape it.I also used a light coat of primer on most of it so the peeling wouldn't be such a problem.I did not get pro results but then I have a driver not a show truck.
I hope to do a frame offr at some point and really do it right but it looks tons better than it did.Also don't forget to tape up the holes in the dash.That will help make it look more professional than when it has overspray on the wiring ect. under the dash.
Every minute you spend taping accurately will pay big dividends when you're finished because it will look much better.Paint can only look as good as the prep work.

70 Jimmy · 06-14-2002, 04:06 PM

Just a note: Plastic-kote is made by the same company that makes House of Color, Valspar (SP). Valspar epoxy primer is great stuff to work with.

06-13-2002, 09:20 AM	#1
SWINGSAX68 Now the others dig........ Join Date: May 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,520	Best Rattle Can Paint? I posted about painting my interior before...I just wanted to keep it fresh... I was wondering what the best type of Spray paint from a can is the best brand, the only ones I know of are Krylon, Rust-Oleum, and this SUV, Truck and Van ( thats all I remember from the can) are these recommended? Let me know. Also BODY TAPE?????? Metal tape for body work? let me know!!! __________________ 68 Chevy C10 Stepside Black Primer 78 GMC Longbed White 09 Chevy Silverado Shortbed Granite Blue *LOOKING FOR A 67 4 DOOR IMPALA!!!Just like Sam and Dean Winchester!! 'Cause Mustangs are for p^#$ and you can fit a body in the trunk of a 67 Impala* MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Bachelor of Music in Jazz Studies Texas State University-San Marcos, TX Certified Music Educator I hope Mom is up there watching and being my Guardian Angel "I've got a fever.....and the only prescription.....IS MORE COW BELL" -The Legendary: Bruce Dickenson "F#$@ 'em up!!!!!!" -The Legendary: Rogelio Escobar TRUCKY LINKS** http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457750 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461184 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472848 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417541 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=477788

06-13-2002, 09:31 AM	#2
johnnyp Keepin' It Stock Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Grand Island, Nebraska, USA Posts: 554	Krylon and Rustoleum are both good brands and I've had good look with both. I like the spray nozzle on Krylon better than Rustoleum - don't get "finger fatique" as bad. __________________ 72 Sierra Grande - Maych Forget about "do it right the first time". Do it wrong the first time to learn how, then do it right the second time.

06-13-2002, 11:36 AM	#4
Mudder Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: East Central, MO Posts: 11,336	I like plastic-kote (cant spell it) seems to last good.

06-13-2002, 01:27 PM	#5
Low69CST Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Frankfort, Kentucky, USA Posts: 2,163	use 3M body tape. Other brands are cheaper, but you pay for it when it comes time to remove it. Also, cheap tape is bad about falling off right in the middle of painting. __________________ '69 CST Short fleetside Lowered, 400 small block, 700R4, 4 wheel disc brakes, front sway bar & rear camaro sway bar (in progress) '87 V10 4x4 Short Fleetside Quad Suspension and Dual Tanks

06-13-2002, 03:52 PM	#6
CoryM Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Surrey, B.C. , Canada Posts: 874	Im with mudder, plasti-cote or whatever they call it is best. I use the engine paint for everything and it works very well. They also have the best clearcoat I have seen, very easy to apply with no drips. If you want a really neat paint check out "last blast" LB-1 cast iron paint. Add a little clearcoat over top and it looks just awesome. Think I am going to do some rims like that. The alumiblast by same co is great too. CoryM __________________ 1970 heavy duty C-10 fleetside sport truck. Vancouver B.C. Canada http://www.geocities.com/chevroletc1070 "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw The torch; be yours to hold it high." Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae, Canadian Army

06-13-2002, 11:06 AM	#3
Desert Rat Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Darrington, Washington Posts: 3,963	Depends on what,brackets and pulleys get Krylon,Frame and suspensions get Rustoleum,motors get Duplicolor.I 100% stay away from the 99 cent special crap,2.50 a can for Krylon at WalMart

06-13-2002, 04:20 PM	#7
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	I have had bad luck with Krylon, it seems to pell off pretty easy when i spray it on something, or maybe i'm just not doing a very good job of cleaning it..... Plasti-Kote is pretty good paint too. I used some Red Devil spray paint once, and i liked it alot, i just can't seem to find it anymore . __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

06-13-2002, 05:09 PM	#8
Desert Rat Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Darrington, Washington Posts: 3,963	You know how many times i rattle restored inside a truck.Im convinced after the last one strip its guts and sand,degrease,sand,prime,and lay it on with a gun,even a $50 cheapy gun.Might take a bit longer but looks better longer,and sanding Rustoleum off your dash in future will suck.

06-13-2002, 10:15 PM	#9
Stano Registered User Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: Mo Posts: 963	Ditto Rat! __________________ New daily driver 96 Chevy K3500 crew cab dually 53,000 miles 350 Vortec 4L80 Nice ride 67 Chevy C-10 LWB Built 350 TH-400 Wifes ride and family rig: 2001 Furd Expedition 5.4 Liter Kickin back in Rolla,Mo. USA "Do the thing you fear most and the death of fear is certain" Mark Twain

06-13-2002, 10:41 PM	#10
Tim Christian Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: TN/VA Posts: 6,388	A good automotive paint store can put regular automotive paint in a can but it is like 10 bucks a can.

06-13-2002, 10:51 PM	#11
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	I think the best paint for small items like motor mounts, brackets, and the like, has to be the little tiny cans of Testors found in the model sections at Wall Mart. This stuff is awsome. The black is beutiful, very durable, and easy to use. The other colors are not quite as easy, but still well worth the effort.

06-14-2002, 10:40 AM	#12
SWINGSAX68 Now the others dig........ Join Date: May 2002 Location: San Antonio, TX Posts: 1,520	So... You Think I could get away with using engine enamel.....I painted my hand brake with engine enamel cause I had nothing else....it looks good...and seems to hold well....hmmmmm....maybe. __________________ 68 Chevy C10 Stepside Black Primer 78 GMC Longbed White 09 Chevy Silverado Shortbed Granite Blue *LOOKING FOR A 67 4 DOOR IMPALA!!!Just like Sam and Dean Winchester!! 'Cause Mustangs are for p^#$ and you can fit a body in the trunk of a 67 Impala* MEMBER OF THE DRUM BRAKE CLUB Bachelor of Music in Jazz Studies Texas State University-San Marcos, TX Certified Music Educator I hope Mom is up there watching and being my Guardian Angel "I've got a fever.....and the only prescription.....IS MORE COW BELL" -The Legendary: Bruce Dickenson "F#$@ 'em up!!!!!!" -The Legendary: Rogelio Escobar TRUCKY LINKS** http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=457750 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=461184 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=472848 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=417541 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=477788

06-14-2002, 11:10 AM	#13
dubie Registered User Join Date: May 2000 Location: Flin Flon, Manitoba, Canada Posts: 8,853	I just posted a topic about this on the paint and body board. I was looking for interior rattle can paint suggestions for the 72. I like the way the engine enamel from plastic-kote sprays and looks, so i thought i might do the interior with that. But wanted to know if it will hold up. __________________ My name's Tim and I'm a truckaholic My 56 Chevy shop truck build http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=562795

06-14-2002, 12:07 PM	#14
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,597	I use the Rust-o-leum for underhood brackets, etc., but it takes FOREVER to dry. If my wife's not home, I put the peices in the oven at 300 degrees for an hour, which usually gets the job done. Years ago, I painted an aftermarket A/C bracket with the stuff, and it still looks like new. I hear the Eastwood "chassis black" paint is very good. It's somewhere between gloss and flat and has a high solids content (means it goes a long way). __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!

06-14-2002, 12:12 PM	#15
MikeB Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2000 Location: North Texas Posts: 3,597	One more thing -- I always use PPG DX330 wax and grease remover before sanding and then again before painting. Using it before sanding ensures you don't sand wax or grease into the paint. Just make sure you wipe off the residue with a clean rag. Similar stuff is made by Mar-hyde and 3M. __________________ Mike 1969 C10 LWB -- owned for 35 years. 350/TH350, 3.08 posi, 1st Gen Vintage Air, recent AAW wiring harness, 5-lug conversion, 1985 spindles and brakes. 1982 C10 SWB -- sold 1981 C10 Silverado LWB -- sold, but wish I still had it! 1969 C10 (not the current one) that I bought in the early 1980s. Paid $1200; sold for $1500 a few years later. Just a hint at the appreciation that was coming. Retired as a factory automation products salesman. Worked part-time over the years for an engine builder and a classic car repair shop. Member here for 24 years! This is the very first car/truck Internet forum I joined. I still used a dial-up modem back then!



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06-14-2002, 12:21 PM	#16
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Just did mine in Testors Black and Krylon grey.I like the fact that the Krylon dries fast.I had better luck with the real stuff on tape,I don't remember the brand.I used steel wool to clean the dash and door panels then a degreaser and clean water.I had to do that the second time because I tried to skate the first time and just gloss over with the steel wool.I also used the degreaser and windex on the rubber parts so the tape would adhere better. The steel wool worked better than sandpapaer because it didn't leave any marks to cover with the paint.Strip the dash because it will look better than if you try to tape it.I also used a light coat of primer on most of it so the peeling wouldn't be such a problem.I did not get pro results but then I have a driver not a show truck. I hope to do a frame offr at some point and really do it right but it looks tons better than it did.Also don't forget to tape up the holes in the dash.That will help make it look more professional than when it has overspray on the wiring ect. under the dash. Every minute you spend taping accurately will pay big dividends when you're finished because it will look much better.Paint can only look as good as the prep work. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

06-14-2002, 04:06 PM	#17
70 Jimmy aka Crusher, Crushergmc Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Oregon Posts: 1,834	Just a note: Plastic-kote is made by the same company that makes House of Color, Valspar (SP). Valspar epoxy primer is great stuff to work with. __________________ "KEEP IT DOWN!" 70 Jimmy 454 2wd 56 GMC Big Window "It's funny till someone gets hurt, then it's freakin' hilarious"

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