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05-05-2005, 08:49 PM | #1 |
C10 Junkie
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Hood, Texas
Posts: 194
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opinions on wood beds?
i'm getting ready to replace the wood in the bed of my truck. its pretty much gone so i ordered oak to replace it. my question for you guys is what kind of treatments would you recommend to better protect the new wood? i was wondering if any of you have ever seen wood beds laquered? curious what kind of coating is recommended and if laquer has been seen? if anyone has pictures of decent bed rebuilds, i'd like to check them out to get a better idea what works best. thanks in advance
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05-05-2005, 08:55 PM | #2 |
hmm...
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Culver, Indiana
Posts: 1,631
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if that's gone, you should see mine. NOTHING left. Anyway, I've seen a lot of them varnished, but what you have to do is varnish the wood, THEN put it in with the bedstrips, so you completely cover the board with the varnish.
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05-05-2005, 09:00 PM | #3 | |
C10 Junkie
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Location: Fort Hood, Texas
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05-05-2005, 09:16 PM | #4 |
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Location: Oklahoma
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on my truck I used some stuff made by valspar. It is made for use on wooden boats and is garateed for 50 years. It has been about 3 years and the bed still looks as good as the day I put it in.
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05-05-2005, 09:22 PM | #5 |
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Rhino or Line-x. Guaranteed not to rot out again
Seriously use a marine laquer like Valspar, They are made for water-repelling and durability. |
05-05-2005, 09:27 PM | #6 | |
C10 Junkie
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Hood, Texas
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Quote:
Last edited by armyavncowgirl; 05-05-2005 at 09:28 PM. Reason: forgot to quote |
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05-05-2005, 10:03 PM | #7 | |
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05-05-2005, 10:19 PM | #8 | |
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I agree, this meant I was being facetious. Last edited by screamin_c102; 05-05-2005 at 10:21 PM. |
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05-05-2005, 10:20 PM | #9 | |
C10 Junkie
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Hood, Texas
Posts: 194
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05-05-2005, 10:33 PM | #10 |
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At one time I had to throw scrap wood into the back of my truck to feed the starving termites.
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05-05-2005, 09:35 PM | #11 |
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Valspar is a major player in automotive paints as well. You could probably get it from your local paint supplier.
Good luck.............. |
05-05-2005, 09:40 PM | #12 | |
C10 Junkie
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Hood, Texas
Posts: 194
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thanks a bunch!
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05-05-2005, 09:49 PM | #13 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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make sure the varnish is UV safe, otherwise, it'll look like crap within a year. look into the boating industry, they should be able to give you some good long lasting ideas.
How long you been at Ft Hood? I just left there a few years ago. In case you don't know, there is an awsome junk yard about 30 miles from you....less if you are on west ft hood (being aviation...I figure you may well be west) I think it is called Harrolds...I can't remember the name of the town thoguh... I'll have to look it up. Out past cove and hang a left and go another 18 miles or so. Last time I was there, he had over a dozen 67 - 72 trucks out there. If you are interested, (and I highly recomend you check it out) I'll look it up on a map and let you know. |
05-05-2005, 09:56 PM | #14 | |
C10 Junkie
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Fort Hood, Texas
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05-05-2005, 10:33 PM | #15 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Take 190 through Cove, about 4 or 5 miles west, you come to a curve in the road, with a road on the left...Mid Tex junk yard is right there. Hang a left and follow that road. After what seems like forever (15 miles or so) you'll come up to a BFE town. They were bragging that they had just gotten a post office in '97 or so. Hang a left at the first stop sign. If you hit a state rout highway (no idea of the number) then you've gone too far. That road will curve to the right, and an highway will be right there. (same one as I must mentioned possably...never looked into it) There will be a small road....just a little bigger than one lane, on the left. Go down that road, and if you miss the yard (1/2 mile on the right) then you shouldn't be driving...the yard is FRIGGEN HUGE! The trucks are way in the back off to the right. It's about a 1/2 mile walk...maybe more.
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05-05-2005, 10:42 PM | #16 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,693
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Briggs!!!!!
That's the name of the town. Here is a yahoo map... http://maps.yahoo.com/dd_result?newa...Tx&tcountry=us And you gota love google... Their number is 512-489-2255 or 512-259-0525 A local yard I recomend...great guy, but he doesn't normally have much (althoguh, he has my old blue Longhorn) is Cam Point.... Pat is the owner, great guy. I worked for him for a summer when i wasn't out chaseing broken M-1 tanks. He is out on FM 2410 just south of Harker Heights. Take the 2410 exit from US 190 and go about 5 miles, it's on the right. You'll probably miss it the first time and hanve to make a u-turn in the trailer park on the left. If you get to a sharp bend to the left where you have to slow to about 45 or so, then you went way too far. I recomend him....he'll tell you that the part you want is worth a million dollars, but he'll tell you 5 bucks or what ever. Some of his stuff is gold in his eyes, but normally real good prices. Mid tex in cove was a joke for the best part. There was one out by the killeen raceway...I can't remember the name, and it wasn't in the phone book. But this place had a BUNCH of old 60's and 70's iron. I was stationed there from 94 - 98, then I spent 99 in korea...then right bacvk to hood from 200 untill i got out in 01. Right after the hail storm that you were probably still hearing about when you first got there. I lived in harker heights and moonlighted at Pizza Pro's. Good pizza in my opinion. You'll never catch me saying it...but I kinda miss that hell hole of a town. |
05-05-2005, 10:46 PM | #17 | ||
C10 Junkie
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Location: Fort Hood, Texas
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05-05-2005, 11:49 PM | #18 |
Excelsior, You Fathead.
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Location: Valparaiso, In
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I re did the Teak on my boat this winter. I sanded it with copper wool(real smooth finish and the particles left in the wood will not rust) and used Sikken Satin. You can get it at the local marine store. It holds up longer than any other marine varnish on the market according to Boaters Report. Looks beautifull. I'll give you the complete name of it if you want(I need to find the can).
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05-06-2005, 12:12 AM | #19 |
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Make sure you test fit the wood, predrill all the required holes before you apply any finish. Also make sure you seal everywhere, including all the holes that are drilled. Wood iwill "RUST" just like metal, except it turns black. Ill post a couple shots of bedwood for you. Good luck
Last edited by classicchev; 05-06-2005 at 12:54 AM. |
05-06-2005, 12:38 AM | #20 | |
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05-06-2005, 12:45 AM | #21 | |
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Man, that sure is pretty! |
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05-06-2005, 12:48 AM | #22 |
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i talked to Stacy David from trucks t.v at a show in edmonton and he said that after you varnish the wood spray a clear coat(automotive clear)on it.It will help protect it a bit and the shine will be greater.
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05-06-2005, 12:49 AM | #23 |
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Location: Calgary Alberta
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No, thats not one of mine, I dont want to post pics of Curtis' wood, Ill wait and let him post those. I have all the board stained, that Quater cut white oak is going to look unbeleivable in that shiny black beast.
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05-08-2005, 08:42 AM | #24 |
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Location: edna, texas
Posts: 24
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wood beds
Hey, you might consider Marine Epoxy Resin, it's clear or you can tint it to color of your choice, it's 2 part and tough as, well epoxy and for boats both above and below the water line. Just another option to confuse you.
I spent 4 summer camps at North Fort Hood in the 49th armor, when it was just tent city, but been all over Fort Hood. Good luck, Larry
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05-06-2005, 07:01 AM | #25 | |
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