The little engine that could...maybe. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

R@nger · 05-25-2005, 11:08 PM

Well tomorrow I will hopefully be able to put my engine troubles behind me...hopefully.

Some of you have been followin my engine trouble so you know what has been going on. Others may have no clue what I'm talking about so I'll give a quick recap. Heres the post if your interested http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=153909 I had my truck runnin excellent then all of a sudden in 24 hours my truck went from running to not running. My tach stopped working, the engine started running bad, then missfiring, and then dead. I found out my HEI coil had blown so I replaced it and I also had to replace my module. I bought an Accel brute thunder coil which was defective so under warranty I was able to get it replaced. The coil is arriving at my house tomorrow and HOPEFULLY I can drop this thing in there and start my truck right up!

I do have a question though...is there anything I should do to help this engine fire right up, other than crossin my fingers and toes? It has been sittin for...geesh almost a month I think with many attempts at getting it to start. I just want to have all my bases covered so this thing will fire right up. Anything that you can possibly think of that would effect the startup I would love to hear about so I can address them all.

Thanks and I'll post here tomorrow to let you guys know if it started up or not.

krue · 05-25-2005, 11:50 PM

You should be good to go. Check your fluids and fire that baby up.

R@nger · 05-26-2005, 05:50 PM

For the love of everything good and decent what the !#%&...whats the deal. I got the new coil, I put in the new brush and spring, applied the dielectric grease liberally to the rubber washer and placed it in the distributor cap, I installed the ground clip, then inserted the new coil being sure to insert the wire terminals into the correct slots in the dirstibutor cap, I placed the coil ground under one of the screws and then proceeded to tighen the coil in a diagonal pattern, with everything tightened I placed the coil cover on the distributor cap and tightened it up. I then put it on my truck being sure to put the spark plugs on in the correct firing order. I then tried starting the truck and nothing. I looked in my carb as I had someone depress the throttle and fuel squirted nicely into the carb. I then pulled a plug and reattached it to the plug wire and had an assistant crank the truck, NO spark. I did this to another spark plug...no spark. I feel like I'm taking crazy pills here

. Again this is a brand new coil and I followed the directions perfectly(not that its difficult to do anyways

).

Guys is it just me or is this totally insane....

.

I don't get it...I really don't get it. Thoughts of taking my 20 gauge out there and ending this are really starting to sound incredibly good.

smokekiki · 05-26-2005, 05:55 PM

This happened to me last Thursday.The brand new modual was bad out of the box.Took the GM modual out of my other truck,and it fired right up.This was after trying a new coil after it didn't start when I put the new modual in.

R@nger · 05-26-2005, 05:58 PM

I will definately try that man...I JUST bought a new module so I ruled that out but hey...I got a bad coil before why not a module right.

Russell · 05-26-2005, 06:35 PM

Chances are if you burnt your coil out, it will have taken your module out with it. I've seen it happen many times before!

jhow66 · 05-26-2005, 06:54 PM

One question--have you checked your pickup coil-your problem has to be there with everything else you have done. (only thing left that has to do with spark.)

R@nger · 05-26-2005, 07:13 PM

I checked it when I replaced the module last time...I believe its supposed to be between 500 and 1000 resistance while wiggling the vacuum advance hose and it was right around 700 and changed back and forth when I wiggled the vacuum advance.

R@nger · 05-26-2005, 08:33 PM

Just got back from autozone...I had my module and coil tested. Both were perfectly fine. Is there any possible way that the wires going from the distributor cap to the base of the distributor(ones that go to the module, condenser, ground) are bad? I think I'm literally out of options. And this is easily THE most frustrating thing I've ever done in my entire life. Theres now way on this earth that this should be so complicated...its not supposed to be this complicated. I'm gonna have to find outside help as I'm about this (_) close to shooting the %$^# distributor.

UPDATE: Ok I charged up the battery a bit because it was getting a bit low. After the charge it was at about 12.55-65V, and it was 12.33 at the distributor. I even tested the red lead from the coil with it hooked up to the battery and it still read 12.33V so that means its getting power. But somehow I'm just not getting spark.

I was thinking. With the new Brute thunder coil do I need a better module? I didn't know if modules had a limit, or anything.

jhow66 · 05-26-2005, 10:25 PM

Change you pickup and it will start.

knsmodels · 05-26-2005, 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhow66

Change you pickup and it will start.

Magnetic pick up would be my next guess also.....do you have an extra dist. you can throw in there?? Bet it would fire right up....Good luck..Paul

R@nger · 05-26-2005, 10:41 PM

Ok a new update. I put my timing light on each of the spark plugs 1 at a time then tried crankin up the truck. The timing light fires at a steady beat on each of the wires. However I pulled the spark plugs out one at a time and none of them had any spark when I cranked the truck. Does this mean that theres spark but theres not enough? Could this be a symptom of a faulty pickup?

Thanks so much for all the suggestions guys. You are the only thing between me the shotgun and the distributor. My distributor thanks you too.

I just need a responce to the question I just asked. If you still think I should replace the pickup coil I will do that. I just don't want to take out the distributor if I don't have to

.

jhow66 · 05-26-2005, 11:01 PM

Did you ground the plug when checking for spark? If so your plugs are gas fouled from all the cranking. Try a new set of plugs. (before installing new plugs try a known good plug to see if it will fire went grounded and with all plugs out crank engine over to expell any raw gas that may be in cylinders)

R@nger · 05-26-2005, 11:30 PM

Doh, I didn't think about that, I just layed the plug on the header had someone crank it and then looked for spark to jump between the spark plug. Thats the way I always did it to check the spark plug on mowers so I thought it would work. I guess what I really should do is hold the spark plug wire a little bit away from a ground and see if theres spark. The plugs are brand new, I just bought them. Let me go hold the wire away from a ground...I'll be back.

I was just in the middle of taken out the distributor when I noticed something. When I put the #1 cylinder at top dead center is that where the #1 spark plug in the distributor cap is, is not where the rotor lines up when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Its about an inch away, counterclock wise. Isn't the rotor supposed to be facing directly at the number one spark plug in the distributor cap when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center? I was doing this cause i figured I'd just go ahead and replace the pickup coil.

R@nger · 05-26-2005, 11:46 PM

Ok I went out there and pulled the wires off the plug and held it 1/4 in. away from my chassis ground that attaches to the wheel well(I tested the ground before and it works great) I had my brother crank the truck and nothing no spark. I then tested another one this way and nothing. To me that says its getting spark but its really weak. I read in my Haynes manual that the testing the spark this way should result in a big blue arch from the spark plug wire to the ground. Am I wrong here?

I'm still a little boggled by my question in my last post..about the rotor not lining up with the #1 post on the distributor cap...and yes it was TDC on the compression stroke.

**53burb** · 05-27-2005, 12:14 AM

If you don't think the rotor is aligned correctly, leave the holdown clamp loose, have somebody turn the engine over and you rotate the distributor at the same time until it starts, assuming your distributor is ok. As far as the spark, pull a plug, connect it to the spark plug wire, hold the wire while the plug anode (Ithink that is what it is called) is touching the engine or exhaust manifold for a ground. You will get shocked, but its no big deal. Hope this helps.

krue · 05-27-2005, 12:07 AM

Sounds like you may be a tooth off on your dizzy (not the spark problem but the lining up problem).

R@nger · 05-27-2005, 12:49 AM

Ok so heres a question I have...what exactly is the pickup coils job? I ask that because I'm trying to figure out why when I connect the timing light up to each wire it makes the light blink at a steady beat yet there is no spark when I hold the wire up to a ground. I guess I'm really wondering if the pickup coil is getting bad or is bad if that will allow a spark but not enough of a spark to make anything happen.

I've said it already but I'll say it again you guys are really helpin me. Sorry if all these question are getting bloody annoying but I just don't have the knownledge yet to fix this stuff myself...I'm totally stumped right now.

R@nger · 05-27-2005, 01:22 AM

UPDATE: this doesn't have to do with the spark but heres what I just learned about TDC. I pulled the plug and stuck a screwdriver in the plug hole. I turned the crank while pulling up on the screwdriver until I felt the piston pushing the screwdriver up. Now I kept cranking until the piston reached its highest point and not only was the crank at 0degrees BTDC but the rotor was in the same place as before...1in. counterclockwise of the #1 post in the distributor cap.

**53burb** · 05-27-2005, 01:38 AM

You can always restab your distributor to the correct spot if you don't want to rotate it while it is being cranked. I would think rotating it would be easier just to get it started, and then restab it later if you want to.

**53burb** · 05-27-2005, 01:46 AM

Forgot to say, it won't start with it that far off.

R@nger · 05-27-2005, 02:03 AM

Ok and to get the rotor to line up do I take out the distributor and turn the little gear at the bottom until the rotor is where it needs to be, and then reinsert the distributor?

**53burb** · 05-27-2005, 02:13 AM

Yup, that's what you have to do. It will rotate a little bit until you get the oil pump lined up to. Line the rotor up, the distributor will probably be sitting about 1/4 to 3/8" inches up. You can then rotate the distributor housing, not the rotor, until it falls into place, or press firmly down on it while the engine is being cranked. The rotor will rotate, but it should be ok. Recheck your timing, and you should be good to go.

R@nger · 05-27-2005, 03:04 AM

Could that be why I have to set my timing at the 8 mark on my timing tab..which I believe translates to 16degress BTDC? I think its supposed to be set at between 10-12...I think thats stock.

**53burb** · 05-27-2005, 03:17 AM

Mine is set at 8 degrees BTDC. I would line the rotor up the best you can, and then rotate the distributor while you are cranking it until it starts. Then after it starts, set the timing to what you wish. If you don't have somebody to help you, you can use a remote starter if you have one, or wait until somebody is available to crank it for you.

05-25-2005, 11:50 PM	#2
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	You should be good to go. Check your fluids and fire that baby up. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

05-26-2005, 05:50 PM	#3
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	For the love of everything good and decent what the !#%&...whats the deal. I got the new coil, I put in the new brush and spring, applied the dielectric grease liberally to the rubber washer and placed it in the distributor cap, I installed the ground clip, then inserted the new coil being sure to insert the wire terminals into the correct slots in the dirstibutor cap, I placed the coil ground under one of the screws and then proceeded to tighen the coil in a diagonal pattern, with everything tightened I placed the coil cover on the distributor cap and tightened it up. I then put it on my truck being sure to put the spark plugs on in the correct firing order. I then tried starting the truck and nothing. I looked in my carb as I had someone depress the throttle and fuel squirted nicely into the carb. I then pulled a plug and reattached it to the plug wire and had an assistant crank the truck, NO spark. I did this to another spark plug...no spark. I feel like I'm taking crazy pills here . Again this is a brand new coil and I followed the directions perfectly(not that its difficult to do anyways ). Guys is it just me or is this totally insane.... . I don't get it...I really don't get it. Thoughts of taking my 20 gauge out there and ending this are really starting to sound incredibly good. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-26-2005 at 05:55 PM.

05-26-2005, 05:55 PM	#4
smokekiki Mike Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: west chester pa Posts: 2,474	This happened to me last Thursday.The brand new modual was bad out of the box.Took the GM modual out of my other truck,and it fired right up.This was after trying a new coil after it didn't start when I put the new modual in. __________________ 70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires

05-26-2005, 05:58 PM	#5
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	I will definately try that man...I JUST bought a new module so I ruled that out but hey...I got a bad coil before why not a module right. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-26-2005 at 06:39 PM.

05-26-2005, 06:35 PM	#6
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Chances are if you burnt your coil out, it will have taken your module out with it. I've seen it happen many times before! __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

05-25-2005, 11:08 PM	#1
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	The little engine that could...maybe. Well tomorrow I will hopefully be able to put my engine troubles behind me...hopefully. Some of you have been followin my engine trouble so you know what has been going on. Others may have no clue what I'm talking about so I'll give a quick recap. Heres the post if your interested http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=153909 I had my truck runnin excellent then all of a sudden in 24 hours my truck went from running to not running. My tach stopped working, the engine started running bad, then missfiring, and then dead. I found out my HEI coil had blown so I replaced it and I also had to replace my module. I bought an Accel brute thunder coil which was defective so under warranty I was able to get it replaced. The coil is arriving at my house tomorrow and HOPEFULLY I can drop this thing in there and start my truck right up! I do have a question though...is there anything I should do to help this engine fire right up, other than crossin my fingers and toes? It has been sittin for...geesh almost a month I think with many attempts at getting it to start. I just want to have all my bases covered so this thing will fire right up. Anything that you can possibly think of that would effect the startup I would love to hear about so I can address them all. Thanks and I'll post here tomorrow to let you guys know if it started up or not. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-25-2005 at 11:12 PM.

05-26-2005, 06:54 PM	#7
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	One question--have you checked your pickup coil-your problem has to be there with everything else you have done. (only thing left that has to do with spark.) __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

05-26-2005, 07:13 PM	#8
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	I checked it when I replaced the module last time...I believe its supposed to be between 500 and 1000 resistance while wiggling the vacuum advance hose and it was right around 700 and changed back and forth when I wiggled the vacuum advance. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy

05-26-2005, 08:33 PM	#9
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	Just got back from autozone...I had my module and coil tested. Both were perfectly fine. Is there any possible way that the wires going from the distributor cap to the base of the distributor(ones that go to the module, condenser, ground) are bad? I think I'm literally out of options. And this is easily THE most frustrating thing I've ever done in my entire life. Theres now way on this earth that this should be so complicated...its not supposed to be this complicated. I'm gonna have to find outside help as I'm about this (_) close to shooting the %$^# distributor. UPDATE: Ok I charged up the battery a bit because it was getting a bit low. After the charge it was at about 12.55-65V, and it was 12.33 at the distributor. I even tested the red lead from the coil with it hooked up to the battery and it still read 12.33V so that means its getting power. But somehow I'm just not getting spark. I was thinking. With the new Brute thunder coil do I need a better module? I didn't know if modules had a limit, or anything. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-26-2005 at 10:17 PM.

05-26-2005, 10:25 PM	#10
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Change you pickup and it will start. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

05-26-2005, 10:41 PM	#12
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	Ok a new update. I put my timing light on each of the spark plugs 1 at a time then tried crankin up the truck. The timing light fires at a steady beat on each of the wires. However I pulled the spark plugs out one at a time and none of them had any spark when I cranked the truck. Does this mean that theres spark but theres not enough? Could this be a symptom of a faulty pickup? Thanks so much for all the suggestions guys. You are the only thing between me the shotgun and the distributor. My distributor thanks you too. I just need a responce to the question I just asked. If you still think I should replace the pickup coil I will do that. I just don't want to take out the distributor if I don't have to . __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-26-2005 at 10:44 PM.

05-26-2005, 11:01 PM	#13
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	Did you ground the plug when checking for spark? If so your plugs are gas fouled from all the cranking. Try a new set of plugs. (before installing new plugs try a known good plug to see if it will fire went grounded and with all plugs out crank engine over to expell any raw gas that may be in cylinders) __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer Last edited by jhow66; 05-26-2005 at 11:02 PM.

05-26-2005, 11:30 PM	#14
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	Doh, I didn't think about that, I just layed the plug on the header had someone crank it and then looked for spark to jump between the spark plug. Thats the way I always did it to check the spark plug on mowers so I thought it would work. I guess what I really should do is hold the spark plug wire a little bit away from a ground and see if theres spark. The plugs are brand new, I just bought them. Let me go hold the wire away from a ground...I'll be back. I was just in the middle of taken out the distributor when I noticed something. When I put the #1 cylinder at top dead center is that where the #1 spark plug in the distributor cap is, is not where the rotor lines up when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Its about an inch away, counterclock wise. Isn't the rotor supposed to be facing directly at the number one spark plug in the distributor cap when the #1 cylinder is at top dead center? I was doing this cause i figured I'd just go ahead and replace the pickup coil. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-26-2005 at 11:46 PM.

05-26-2005, 11:46 PM	#15
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	Ok I went out there and pulled the wires off the plug and held it 1/4 in. away from my chassis ground that attaches to the wheel well(I tested the ground before and it works great) I had my brother crank the truck and nothing no spark. I then tested another one this way and nothing. To me that says its getting spark but its really weak. I read in my Haynes manual that the testing the spark this way should result in a big blue arch from the spark plug wire to the ground. Am I wrong here? I'm still a little boggled by my question in my last post..about the rotor not lining up with the #1 post on the distributor cap...and yes it was TDC on the compression stroke. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-26-2005 at 11:57 PM.

05-27-2005, 12:14 AM	#16
53burb Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Queen Creek, AZ Posts: 1,004	If you don't think the rotor is aligned correctly, leave the holdown clamp loose, have somebody turn the engine over and you rotate the distributor at the same time until it starts, assuming your distributor is ok. As far as the spark, pull a plug, connect it to the spark plug wire, hold the wire while the plug anode (Ithink that is what it is called) is touching the engine or exhaust manifold for a ground. You will get shocked, but its no big deal. Hope this helps.



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05-27-2005, 12:07 AM	#17
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	Sounds like you may be a tooth off on your dizzy (not the spark problem but the lining up problem). __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

05-27-2005, 12:49 AM	#18
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	Ok so heres a question I have...what exactly is the pickup coils job? I ask that because I'm trying to figure out why when I connect the timing light up to each wire it makes the light blink at a steady beat yet there is no spark when I hold the wire up to a ground. I guess I'm really wondering if the pickup coil is getting bad or is bad if that will allow a spark but not enough of a spark to make anything happen. I've said it already but I'll say it again you guys are really helpin me. Sorry if all these question are getting bloody annoying but I just don't have the knownledge yet to fix this stuff myself...I'm totally stumped right now. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy

05-27-2005, 01:22 AM	#19
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	UPDATE: this doesn't have to do with the spark but heres what I just learned about TDC. I pulled the plug and stuck a screwdriver in the plug hole. I turned the crank while pulling up on the screwdriver until I felt the piston pushing the screwdriver up. Now I kept cranking until the piston reached its highest point and not only was the crank at 0degrees BTDC but the rotor was in the same place as before...1in. counterclockwise of the #1 post in the distributor cap. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-27-2005 at 01:23 AM.

05-27-2005, 01:38 AM	#20
53burb Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Queen Creek, AZ Posts: 1,004	You can always restab your distributor to the correct spot if you don't want to rotate it while it is being cranked. I would think rotating it would be easier just to get it started, and then restab it later if you want to.

05-27-2005, 01:46 AM	#21
53burb Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Queen Creek, AZ Posts: 1,004	Forgot to say, it won't start with it that far off.

05-27-2005, 02:03 AM	#22
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	Ok and to get the rotor to line up do I take out the distributor and turn the little gear at the bottom until the rotor is where it needs to be, and then reinsert the distributor? __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy Last edited by R@nger; 05-27-2005 at 02:06 AM.

05-27-2005, 02:13 AM	#23
53burb Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Queen Creek, AZ Posts: 1,004	Yup, that's what you have to do. It will rotate a little bit until you get the oil pump lined up to. Line the rotor up, the distributor will probably be sitting about 1/4 to 3/8" inches up. You can then rotate the distributor housing, not the rotor, until it falls into place, or press firmly down on it while the engine is being cranked. The rotor will rotate, but it should be ok. Recheck your timing, and you should be good to go.

05-27-2005, 03:04 AM	#24
R@nger Psalm 23 Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Utah Posts: 360	Could that be why I have to set my timing at the 8 mark on my timing tab..which I believe translates to 16degress BTDC? I think its supposed to be set at between 10-12...I think thats stock. __________________ 71 GMC Fleetside C15(cab), 3/4 ton, 350, Holley Street Avenger 570cfm carb, TH350 trans, Leaf-springs, 2WD. "Peter are you sleeping on the job? No I have a bug in my eye and I'm trying to suffocate him." - Family Guy

05-27-2005, 03:17 AM	#25
53burb Registered User Join Date: May 2004 Location: Queen Creek, AZ Posts: 1,004	Mine is set at 8 degrees BTDC. I would line the rotor up the best you can, and then rotate the distributor while you are cranking it until it starts. Then after it starts, set the timing to what you wish. If you don't have somebody to help you, you can use a remote starter if you have one, or wait until somebody is available to crank it for you.

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