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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 802
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Considering '73+ Master Cylinder
Hey all. I'm picking away at converting my '69 C20 from manual drums to power disks/drums and eventually 4 wheel discs. In the process, I've been poking around under the hoods of '73 and up pickups and it looks to me like they use larger diameter tubing than the older ones. Also they have slightly different routing for the lines (not sure why?).
Is the tubing actually a different size? Many thanks Greg
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No such thing as a stupid question, right? |
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#2 |
F.A.S.T. president
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,883
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The rear lines are bigger then the front. Why don’t you just use a 71,72 setup. I don’t know about the c20, but the c10 is an easier swap if you use the 71,72.
The 4 wheel disks are nice, but in my opinion it won’t give much stopping advantage with out antilock. Because you will end up balancing the proportioning valve to get the same affect as with disk/drum. You cant just add more effective stopping power to the rear on trucks because of the weight distribution with out antilock. Especially in poor traction conditions where you really need it. But a lot of guys run them, they seem to be happy with them and it cant do any harm. ohhps almost forgot. The disks will have alot less brake "fade" under hard condition, if that is a concern then its worth the investment.
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F.A.S.T. President and Founder Fabricators for the Advancement of Sawsall Technology "A fear of the Sawsall is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." ~Sigmund Freud, "General Introduction to Psychoanalysis" Last edited by jamis; 06-05-2005 at 06:01 PM. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 802
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Thanks for the reply.
I thought that disk brake setups use a higher volume of brake fluid than drums? I may be wrong but if that is the case, wouldn't larger diameter tubing work better at supplying fluid for that? I should've stated in the first place that I'm using a frontend from a '72 longhorn and it included the M/C and prop valve. Part of my question stems from a fear that in my hunt for parts for the truck (the calipers are a little rough and the rotors are shot) I'm going to swap in a part that's close but needs one thing after another to make it work. Also, since this is a 35 year old truck, I wonder if I can get the rebuilt parts I need for it. They aren't big concerns, I just think that with a little planning now, I can save myself some headaches later. Many thanks Greg
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No such thing as a stupid question, right? |
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#4 |
'Burban Legend
![]() Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Mingo Junction OH
Posts: 918
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The Only Stupid Question...
...Is The One You Don't Ask. You will be surprised how much stuff you will be able to get at your normal parts store. You need to get into the FAQ section and read up on all the info on this very subject. Pretty amazing, the knowledge that is stored up here. Good luck, Mike
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'67 Chevy Iron City Beer Truck (9ft step) '67 Chevy Panel Truck 467 '68 Short Fleet 305v6 '68 McLaren Ramp Truck '68/'68/'70/'71 Burbs 292/366/402/454 '69 C-30 dump '71 C-50 dump and church bus '71 4x4 454 '72 Blazer (w/pop-up camper) $15 x-hooks '66 Chevy II 194/Weber '68 El Camino" 305v6 '69 Skylark 455 Buick '70 Chevelle 427 '71 Cutlass W-31 '71 GTO 400 2x2 "The 51" Chopped '51 Chevy (409) my first car OK Toad, we'll take 'em all... John Milner |
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