Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
06-15-2005, 11:14 PM | #1 |
An American Soldier
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy
Posts: 503
|
Lil help with HOOD gap??
Okay, about the only thing original on my truck is the cab and cowl cover. I have a reproduction stepbed (thanks to Ed at mothertruckers). I also have repro doors. They are Tri-Plus and I think they fit great. The entire front clip is reproduction also. The fenders, inner fenders, and core support bolted together way too easy...no problems wahta so ever. Then< i put my repro cowl hood on. The gap on the passenger side is 5/8" at the front. It is onlt 1/4" on the driver's side (that's fine). I can not figure out how to narrow the 5/8" passenger side. I loosened up all the bolts where the frender meets the core support, but there just doesn'r seem to be any adjustment that way. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Passenger side gap: Passenger side view: Driver's side gap: Driver's side view: Thanks for any help!
__________________
Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil |
06-16-2005, 03:56 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Chattanooga TN
Posts: 115
|
I guess the first thing I would do is pull the hood and measure across the fender lips by the cowl and then agian by the core support. That will atleast let you know if its the truck or the hood. If the difference its in the truck you may have to modify the core support on the passanger side. If its in the hood ... I dont know.
|
06-16-2005, 04:57 PM | #3 |
Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
Posts: 2,473
|
Make sure Your hinges are in good shape.Get some body shims.With replacing everything up front,You are going to need to move things around to get the proper gaps.
__________________
70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires |
06-16-2005, 05:05 PM | #4 |
Just Don't Stop!
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Dallas
Posts: 1,239
|
I have a similar problem, would like to hear some more opinions... On my truck all the sheet metal is origional...
__________________
1968 C10 build in process TT LSA/6L90e/9" |
06-16-2005, 05:29 PM | #5 |
69 C-10 project
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Eastern, NC
Posts: 184
|
Try adjusting from the hood hinges, I don't have mine adjusted perfect, but that is where I adjusted it from. I never replaced any fenders but did have the hood off and it was a real pain to adjust. Trial and error was my method.
Good luck.
__________________
69 C-10 Work is complete |
06-16-2005, 06:45 PM | #6 |
State of Confusion!
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 47,216
|
Parts alwyas need tweaked when reinstalling/replacing, aftermarket or NOS. One this I would check /do first. If you put new mounts for your core support and still have the original mounts on your cab, I would make sure all the mounts are new first. Then loosenor completely remove the inner fenders. I had to tweak my core support some to allow the front on the fenders to slide in enough enoungh. While your are doing your alignments, I also recommend your have your gril in place also.
I also think your hood needs some adjustments too,, quite possibly new hinges. From what I see it is not sitting close to flush with your cowl cover. Reassembling and/or replacing body parts require a lot of patience. Don't get in a rush to get it all perfect on the first round. Adjucst a little here, then a little there. Eventually you'll get it even.
__________________
Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
06-16-2005, 06:46 PM | #7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
Posts: 3,371
|
Looks like just the right fender need to come in. The two bolts that hold fender to support may need to have holes in support elongated, Some edge core support may need to be filed/ground off to allow more movement. Triangle braces in corner may be out of adjustment ant need holes made oversize also. Battery box may be holding something also.
__________________
1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 |
06-16-2005, 07:52 PM | #8 |
#16876
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Auburn WA
Posts: 12,266
|
I agree that the fender needs to come in. The lines are good on one side, and look good along the cowl on the crooked side. Gap widens towards the front. I'd slip the outer grille on and see how much and where it is off.
__________________
Posted via Stationary Device '71 Custom Deluxe C-20 402. '67 Buick Special 455. '49 Plymouth Special Deluxe. "I love that old car smell" Some people are like Slinkies... not really good for anything, but they still bring a smile to your face when you push them down a flight of stairs. |
06-16-2005, 08:54 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: saskatoon, planet earth
Posts: 694
|
I'd think moving your drivers side hinge forward might push the passenger side front closer to the fender. Like said above don't tighten ANYTHING involved till you get your lines straight. ( that includes your core support ) I've taken apart several and re-assembled a couple and lots of shims is a good thing, they never seem to be in the same place on every truck either. And keep in mind sometimes a push here equals a pull somewhere else. Maybe pulling the bottoms of fenders will tighten up gaps at the top? Then again maybe not, it depnds if & where things pivot. Sometimes you have to split differnces to get your gaps.. And sometimes you have to go for a walk and calm down.( trust me on this ) Good luck to ya brother, I feel your frustration.
__________________
I got a bench seat baby, you don't have to sit over there. Last edited by purple gas; 06-16-2005 at 08:57 PM. |
06-16-2005, 09:49 PM | #10 |
Project Junkie! Fishing Poor!!
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Olympia,Wa. 98512
Posts: 10,766
|
A couple of questions need to be answered. Did you remove the cab from the chassis? If so are you sure it is sitting on the frame square? Are your hood hinges new? Are you sure the core support is centered on its mounts? Was it before? You can take your core supoort loose and move it toward the drivers side slightly and that will help it. Slotting the holes in the core support for the fender will help some also. WES www.ClassicHeartbeat.com
__________________
On-line catolog Classic Heartbeat Pickup Parts WEHEPP@comcast.net Call us Toll Free (888) 338-2502 Like Us on Facebook No appointment necessary. 72 BB Chevy Custom Deluxe / Custom Camper 67 I-6 (Soon to be 5.7 LS1) Panel 68 BB Chevy Short Bed 72 6.0 LQ9 Short Bed Chevy 4X4 Olympia's fastest growing truck parts supplier. Olympia's home for Wayward Chevys |
06-16-2005, 11:24 PM | #11 |
An American Soldier
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Grumolo D' Abadessee, Italy
Posts: 503
|
Hey Guys,
Thanks for all your input. I hope to get back out there and work on it some this weekend. The answer to some of your questions: No, I haven't removed the cab; the cab mounts are original. Yes, I do have new hinges and springs...they are aftermarket..they did not have original GM ones available when I bought everything, and of course I could not wait. The core support is new and has new mounts and hardware. I do have a brand new grill (with the CHEVROLET stamped in it). I started to put it on, but was by myself and almost dropped it a couple of times. I would have been so pissed if I dinged it. That aluminum is so fragile. I'll let ya'll know what I figure out. Purple Gas, you are so right about going for a walk and calming down. The BFH doesn't work so well with sheet metal...lol
__________________
Dan dan.brue@us.army.mil |
Bookmarks |
|
|