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06-27-2005, 01:48 AM | #1 |
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What should I do?!
I am in a serious dilemma here. Everyone is telling me to sell my truck before I put more money into it. By everyone, I mean my mom, dad, and even my family mechanic! But here's the thing...it was my first vehicle...my grandfather gave it to me. I don't want to sell it for this reason. And...I just LOVE the body style of the '73-'87's Chevy's!
As for the reason why they want me to sell it...well...there's many. Lets start out with the major things. I need to get a whole new exhaust system including cat, tires, heater core, power windows don't work, needs new shocks, and it needs a new windshield. Oh, and the whole entire chassis consists of rust. Sure...it looks good on the outside... Lets take a look under the body though... Now, I know this is no where close to how bad of stuff you guys have seen, but for an 18 yo with a part time job, is it worth it to keep it and continue fixing it up? I am seriously thinking about keeping it now that I think about it. |
06-27-2005, 03:53 AM | #2 | |
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I'm 19, BTW... Last edited by ZmOz; 06-27-2005 at 04:49 AM. |
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06-27-2005, 04:14 AM | #3 |
Chevys Kick A$$
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I would keep it and seriously think about getting a little beater truck or car to drive so that you can park it and start to save $$ money and work on it. I know how it is, I almost was going to sell my first vechicle if I did not get some steady income but luckily I got a full time job so I got to keep it.
-Later
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*HOODS is what I answer too* -'79, '77, '88 Pickup Sold, '85 Camaro, '83 T/A, '81,'83,'90 K5 Blazer All Sold -'79 3/4 ton "Big Yellow Bananna" Lifted 4spd. 39.5 TSL Swampers, The money Pit -'86 K5 Blazer Silverado 6.2 4" lift 35"s -'95 Ext. Cab Shorty 4" Tuff Country rolling 35" M/T's -'83 Monte Carlo T-Tops. 126,500 Original Miles -LATER I would rather push a Chevy then drive a ford!!
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06-27-2005, 07:49 AM | #4 |
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sell it!...sell it....sell it to me
unless you do a total strip down, and take that cab, bed and front off and blast that frame and undercoat it....the way that frame looks now...it could be very bad by a year or so, if you drive it in the winter i've had a few that the frames looked like that....if you keep it, you really need to do some extensive work on that undercarriage
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1987 350 TBI lowered 5/7 Last edited by bigarmzz; 06-27-2005 at 07:51 AM. |
06-27-2005, 11:17 AM | #5 | |
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My vote is keep it - - it's a great looking machine. And like has been said, the rest of the stuff is not that bad. Keep in mind that trying to do the work yourself on these older vehicles becomes quite important. Since they are older, they do need a fair amount of TLC, and if you're paying a mechanic for every little thing, it soon adds up. Have fun |
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06-27-2005, 11:49 AM | #6 | |
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but to make it a really nice piece, i'd take it all down....it will only get worse, trust me ...in the pic with the muffler...the frame dont look too great there.....do it now while its together and not completely shot...yet...rust will eat the crap out of these frames
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1987 350 TBI lowered 5/7 Last edited by bigarmzz; 06-27-2005 at 11:52 AM. |
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06-27-2005, 12:26 PM | #7 |
Mudslides 'r my specialty
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The frame looks to only have surface rust in the pics...nothing horrible.
The frame and body looks thousands of times better than mine, does that mean mine is a lost cause?
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06-27-2005, 08:13 AM | #8 |
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It all depends on how much of the work you do yourself. I mean, you can get a windshield for $50 at the junkyard, reman window motors for $40 a piece max, I would think no more than $30 a piece for shocks. Theres no easy way around getting tires, but maybe you could find some decent used ones.
As for the exhaust, whatever a shop tells you-the price can almost be cut in half. An exhaust shop wanted $150 to do mine. I said i want somthing cheap like a glasspack, and just have it come out in front of the rear wheel. Then they said $100. I said I would just go to a place that told me $75 instead. Then they agreed to $75! The chassis looks like surface rust from the picture, but I could be wrong. Just take it one thing at a time if you really do wanna keep the truck. Everyone is here to help when you have questions. -Jeremy |
06-27-2005, 08:22 AM | #9 |
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Looks good.
Most of what you listed are normal consumable items. Who's to say your new/used vehicle won't need all that. Shock $20ea. exhaust $250 +/- Tires used only 10ea locally. Winshield used cheap/ Mesko like $150/200 installed. bob
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1986 C10 Scottsdale 5.3, TH400 |
06-27-2005, 09:46 AM | #10 |
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Man Dont Sell! Thats A Good Looking Truck The Undercarriage Is Rusty But Not A Big Problem I Am Assuming You Are Just Out Of H.s. And Eager To Have Everything In The World Well Slow Down Get A Full Time Job And Work On The Truck When You Can Its Not That Bad Or Hard To Do And You Will Never Learn If You Dont Start Trying Right Now These Trucks Are Really Simple To Deal With They Are On Every Corner Also.
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06-27-2005, 09:59 AM | #11 |
my gas saver
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i wouldn't sell it either, get a beater dude.
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85' SWB, 4.3/TH350, getting ready for paint 84`SWB, 462ci./TH400, cowl hood, 15" billet spec., flows, blazer buckets/console, flat black 71`SWB, project ebay feedback Last edited by CHEVYE; 06-27-2005 at 09:59 AM. |
06-27-2005, 12:32 PM | #12 |
yeller
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Everyone has hit the nail on the head thus far...I would definately keep it!
I agree with getting a cheap driver, for the winter. Not only will you get better mileage (if you go that route), but your truck will not rust too much more if at all (depending on how it is stored during the winter months), and it will give you 4-5 months to save for parts you need that can be put on in the spring.
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Jeff 73-87.com 73-87.com Facebook page 73-87 cab corner 6x9 speaker brackets for sale 67-72 cab corner speaker brackets for sale 47-54 cab corner speaker brackets for sale |
06-27-2005, 12:45 PM | #13 |
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Thank you for all your help guys. I wish I had a garage to store this in for the winter. I might call up a friend and ask him if I can store it in his garage.
As for a winter driver...I'll ask my dad if I can drive his truck. He's a truck driver so he's only home maybe 3 times a month. I'll pay for gas and maybe partial insurance so he doesn't start complaining. LOL Last edited by Wertzy; 06-27-2005 at 12:46 PM. |
06-27-2005, 12:51 PM | #14 | |
yeller
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Jeff 73-87.com 73-87.com Facebook page 73-87 cab corner 6x9 speaker brackets for sale 67-72 cab corner speaker brackets for sale 47-54 cab corner speaker brackets for sale |
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06-27-2005, 02:38 PM | #15 |
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I am in hanover pa. If you are close we could have that thing rockin in a weekend, Pick up a set of shocks . I have a perfect tinted windshield you can have for $50.00 and I will put it in for you about a 20min job. shocks another 30 min exhaust you can just buy a complete aftermarket kit cheeper than getting a junk autostore replacement.(biggest job) pickup a heater core I can do that in an hour. windows could be a switch,fuse, wire or wires, trashed motors. I have spares of all that crap or we can hit the local junkyard and get the stuff for super cheeps. You will have just as much aggrivation buying something else and getting it road ready and probably spend more. I say $800.00 get you up and going strong again. labor cost is the big pita. Just get me a case of beer.or 2 oh and start spraying the manifold to downpipe bolts now and everyday with gibbs or similar product until you do the exhaust or else the studs are going to need replacement. again no big deal.
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06-27-2005, 03:09 PM | #16 |
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I'm just being curious here...but if I do end up selling it, what do you guys think I could get out of it?
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06-27-2005, 03:10 PM | #17 |
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I will give you $1,000 today just e-me directions and I will come get it. or you can try the ebay route but they have not been bringing any real money as of late.
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06-27-2005, 03:30 PM | #18 | |
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If you want, I could go out and take some more pictures of it for you. Actually, I need to take some updated pictures of it anyway, I just washed it so it should shine up nice for the camera. Next post will include lots of pictures. |
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06-27-2005, 04:20 PM | #19 |
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the frame looks like it does need some rust removal done but i defently would keep it!!! and as for exaust i dont know what your laws are but i wouldnt put a cat onit and i would go with glass packs since they are a little cheaper but that is one nice truck!!!......i am only 15 and i am keeping one that looks worse then that!!
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06-27-2005, 05:14 PM | #20 |
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*sigh* Here's a link to it for sale...if anyone is interested...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=161856 I have a feeling I'm going to regret this. Last edited by Wertzy; 06-27-2005 at 05:14 PM. |
06-27-2005, 05:30 PM | #21 |
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ok, you you are really serious about keeping the truck it can be done on the cheap... depends how badly you want it though... now every insurance company I've had offers glass insurance for between $5 and $15 per year, and theres no deductable.... in fact they dont even look the windows over before adding it to the policy - might be something to look into Now second, read through your ad and heres what I see you need:
Tailpipe is about $18 at autozone and is a 15 minute bolt on job. (I just did one, most of my time was cutting the old one free) Drive indicator clips onto the column from behind the dash bexel, its attached to a wire that runs throught he corner of the instrument cluster. About 10 screws and 5 minutes to see whats wrong. Worst case scenario swap the guage cluster with one without a broken mounting tab for the wire to run through. Cost - $25 for the cluster max Heater core - worst case pay someone about $125 or so to fix including the parts... kinda a pita job is why pay to fix Gas tank is $75 reproduction, all bolts and about 2 hrs labor, easy to do yourself Shocks maybe $75 for a set, and a 2 hr job in your driveway, again just a jack and rachet exhaust - well your muffler in the ad said changed, the intermediate pipe is cheap, and if you order one from say a 79 diesel or so they didnt come with cat converters so.... that problem is solved, cheap too. washer jug, I got one here you can have if you keep the truck, just a stupid piece of plastic afterall. 6 bolts per door to change them out entirely, fixes the windows and rust... going rate is $75-100 per door complete but I'm sure someone could fix you up, if you were closer to where I stash my parts I certainly would. Tires hit a swap meet, $100 for a matching set is pretty easy to find all day long, with 50-75% tread minimum. I found a set of BFG A/Ts with 500 miles on em for $150 last one I headed out to. Again, maybe someone more local can hook you up with a spare set on the cheap, I keep spare sets here for just that purpose myself... Dont let the rust underneath bother you, these are good strong frames and bodies on these trucks, I've had some way worse off than that and drove them for years in the northeast.... Did you know that Massachusetts uses more road salt per mile than anywhere else in the country? |
06-27-2005, 05:36 PM | #22 |
Waiting for Paul to Open Safe
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Uuuughh. A travesty. Reminds me of the truck I got when I was sixteen, my dad, mom, brother, mechanic constantly telling me to get rid of it. Well 15 years later and I still love it. I even proposed to my wife in the cab of that truck.
When you have a good truck like that you know the history of and exactly what's wrong with it it's worth more than the few bucks you can get for it IMHO. |
06-27-2005, 08:57 PM | #23 | ||
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Last edited by ZmOz; 06-27-2005 at 09:00 PM. |
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06-28-2005, 12:02 AM | #24 | |
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i did get one thing better, my '77 K20. worked on it quite a bit with my grandpa, it was his truck. it taught me alot, created some very happy memories, and now that he's gone, its something to remember him by. its in far worse shape than yours, and my goals for it are a little higher than yours. it has had a snow blade hanging off the front of it since the day it left the dealership in early 1977, and it has never once been kept in a garage. my plans? stock or extremely mild custom resto, and it will be a show truck. |
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06-27-2005, 09:16 PM | #25 |
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It's rough for these old trucks to seperate with them., With the history of yours, and like others have said it is not that bad.....especially for a PA vehicle, I know I grew up there. I'd keep it and drive it till you can afford to do it right or the PA inspection won't let it on the road no more. Either way, you are going to be out about the same amount of money, because you'll be investing darn near the same amount to fix the truck over what you get for the truck to get anther vehicle to replace it, and you won't know the history of that new vehicle. Your's needs work, but you know what you got and it is easily repairable for a reasonable cost. To me the most expensive thing would be the cat, and I am assuming you will need the cat to make it through your next inspection.
BTW, I have done a lot of PA vehicles, wire brush on drill and quart rustolieum. It held up a lot of vehicles over the years up there with no degradation in the frame. Show quality, NO, but definitely durable for a driver.
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! Last edited by Palf70Step; 06-27-2005 at 09:19 PM. |
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