Replacing body mounts - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

OlyHeeebz · 07-11-2005, 01:33 AM

Anybody have any good suggestions or tips for replacing body mounts on a Blazer? Mine are all shot and I'm getting some Energy polys to replace them.
Any one have any good tips for doing this. I was just going to jack up one side of body at a time using 2x4"s and replace all the bushings one side at a time.

Can I slide in a washer or two on the bolt for a slight body lift as well?

Thanks

vtblazer · 07-11-2005, 07:29 AM

Some say that poly mounts squeak, so when I did mine I smeared everything with anti-seize.
Never heard a squeak yet.

**Yukon Jack** · 07-11-2005, 10:33 AM

When I did mine I had to grind the heads off of the bolts other than the two that are located in front of the driver and passenger seats and the radiator support bolts. Then I punched the bolts down through the floor and fought to get them out below the body. The bolts were so rusty I couldn't get any of them to break free. One of the metal sleeves on one of the bolts in front of the seats was seized. Fought it for a long time and then got my handy air hammer with a v-shaped chisel head and had it off in a number of seconds.

Watch your door gaps when you tighten everything down, should use the same number of shims when reinstalled - at least I did.

michigank5 · 07-11-2005, 04:22 PM

Just like Yukon, I had to grind the heads off and then punch them through. Most or all of the heads are probably at least tacked to the body. If you have a hard top, keep it bolted on the whole time, should keep the body together better. I had sold my top already when I did the mounts and it took a lot of adjusting shims to get it back so that the doors could shut. And good suggestion by VT using the grease since mine squeak a bit, but that's easily overcome by cranking up the stereo.

But you've got the basic idea, jack it up with 2x4s and go one side at a time.

Jimmy72custom · 07-11-2005, 11:03 PM

The torque is 20 ft. lbs except for the larger bolt below the windshield it is 50 ft. lbs. I put in stock rubber and double nutted the bolts after torque, no grease no squeak. But I play my CD to loud to tell anyway.

71jimmy · 07-11-2005, 11:10 PM

I just did mine, same as everyone says. I didn't "torque" mine though, just tightened until the rubber slightly bulbls out. At 20 or 50 ft lb the rubber must be flat. Might not be a problem with poly mounts though.

bouncytruck · 07-12-2005, 11:14 AM

I'm probably going to have to do body mounts this fall. After removing the top for the first time, the doors are sticking a little.

Should you put locktite on the bolts to keep the nuts on?

OlyHeeebz · 07-12-2005, 04:19 PM

Does anyone have any preferences towards which mfg. of mounts? Energy and Prothane are the two poly mfgs that seem to dominate the market? Is one better than the other?

71jimmy · 07-12-2005, 11:51 PM

OK, stupid thought. The metal sleeve inside the bottom mount, that is what you tighten and torque against. But the bottom rubber mount sure flattens/bulges out? Is it suppossed to? The old mounts were shot and bolts were rusted/dirty so it was hard to tell.

wingman · 07-13-2005, 10:03 AM

While were on the topic has any one done a body lift, im considering the ord aluminum 1" since it is going to be all apart anyways.

OlyHeeebz · 07-13-2005, 12:17 PM

I was asking sorta the same question in my original post. I want about a half inch body lift only, and thought I could get do it with a couple burly washers. No one has responded yet tho........ come on people... Help a brutha' out

07-11-2005, 01:33 AM	#1
OlyHeeebz Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 41	Replacing body mounts Anybody have any good suggestions or tips for replacing body mounts on a Blazer? Mine are all shot and I'm getting some Energy polys to replace them. Any one have any good tips for doing this. I was just going to jack up one side of body at a time using 2x4"s and replace all the bushings one side at a time. Can I slide in a washer or two on the bolt for a slight body lift as well? Thanks __________________ 1969 K5 Blazer CST Always waiting for the Puget Sound sun.....

07-11-2005, 10:33 AM	#3
Yukon Jack Post Whore Join Date: Feb 2000 Location: Rose Hill, KS, USA Posts: 12,686	When I did mine I had to grind the heads off of the bolts other than the two that are located in front of the driver and passenger seats and the radiator support bolts. Then I punched the bolts down through the floor and fought to get them out below the body. The bolts were so rusty I couldn't get any of them to break free. One of the metal sleeves on one of the bolts in front of the seats was seized. Fought it for a long time and then got my handy air hammer with a v-shaped chisel head and had it off in a number of seconds. Watch your door gaps when you tighten everything down, should use the same number of shims when reinstalled - at least I did. __________________ 1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift 1980 Pontiac Trans Am, 455 Oldsmobile 2012 Kawasaki Concours 14

07-11-2005, 11:10 PM	#6
71jimmy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,083	I just did mine, same as everyone says. I didn't "torque" mine though, just tightened until the rubber slightly bulbls out. At 20 or 50 ft lb the rubber must be flat. Might not be a problem with poly mounts though. __________________ '71 Jimmy, 350, SM465, NP205, 2in Tuff Country lift, 33s on rallies, TBI, softtop and hardtop "If life was fair you'd be able to afford one of each and a garage large enough to house them all."

07-12-2005, 11:14 AM	#7
bouncytruck SKINNY TIRES RULE! Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Bothell, WA Posts: 11,038	I'm probably going to have to do body mounts this fall. After removing the top for the first time, the doors are sticking a little. Should you put locktite on the bolts to keep the nuts on? __________________ bouncytruck 1972 K5 The Hauler 1994 K1500 Suburban The Daily2010 Kia Soul Wife's Ride2014 Fiat 500L

07-12-2005, 04:19 PM	#8
OlyHeeebz Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 41	Does anyone have any preferences towards which mfg. of mounts? Energy and Prothane are the two poly mfgs that seem to dominate the market? Is one better than the other? __________________ 1969 K5 Blazer CST Always waiting for the Puget Sound sun.....

07-11-2005, 07:29 AM	#2
vtblazer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Central Vermont Posts: 8,537	Some say that poly mounts squeak, so when I did mine I smeared everything with anti-seize. Never heard a squeak yet.

07-11-2005, 04:22 PM	#4
michigank5 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Pontiac, MI Posts: 54	Just like Yukon, I had to grind the heads off and then punch them through. Most or all of the heads are probably at least tacked to the body. If you have a hard top, keep it bolted on the whole time, should keep the body together better. I had sold my top already when I did the mounts and it took a lot of adjusting shims to get it back so that the doors could shut. And good suggestion by VT using the grease since mine squeak a bit, but that's easily overcome by cranking up the stereo. But you've got the basic idea, jack it up with 2x4s and go one side at a time.

07-11-2005, 11:03 PM	#5
Jimmy72custom Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Willits Ca Posts: 261	The torque is 20 ft. lbs except for the larger bolt below the windshield it is 50 ft. lbs. I put in stock rubber and double nutted the bolts after torque, no grease no squeak. But I play my CD to loud to tell anyway.

07-12-2005, 11:51 PM	#9
71jimmy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,083	OK, stupid thought. The metal sleeve inside the bottom mount, that is what you tighten and torque against. But the bottom rubber mount sure flattens/bulges out? Is it suppossed to? The old mounts were shot and bolts were rusted/dirty so it was hard to tell. __________________ '71 Jimmy, 350, SM465, NP205, 2in Tuff Country lift, 33s on rallies, TBI, softtop and hardtop "If life was fair you'd be able to afford one of each and a garage large enough to house them all."

07-13-2005, 10:03 AM	#10
wingman Registered User Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 41	While were on the topic has any one done a body lift, im considering the ord aluminum 1" since it is going to be all apart anyways.

07-13-2005, 12:17 PM	#11
OlyHeeebz Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Seattle, WA Posts: 41	I was asking sorta the same question in my original post. I want about a half inch body lift only, and thought I could get do it with a couple burly washers. No one has responded yet tho........ come on people... Help a brutha' out __________________ 1969 K5 Blazer CST Always waiting for the Puget Sound sun.....



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