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08-04-2005, 12:41 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Central florida
Posts: 3,223
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few Q's setting up D44 knuckle/crossover steering
hey, soon i gotta tackle this explorer in my driveway with the blazer axles underneath it, and i got the crossover flatop knuckle from sky manufacturing
so i gotta put on the new steering arms on both knuckles, one of the questions is installing the studs on the knuckles, since its new GM studs, do i just tighten them in with nothing else other than hand strength, do i put a low level loctite on them (ie blue, heat release loctite), or would i use teflon tape(i would not think but just asking), on the new nuts on the thread, anyone know the torquing specs to what tightness, and to i tighten them all the way before i finish the steering connections(ie drop link, or do i tighten them up further(past just snug) right before i take it for a test drive is there anyway to pre tension the balljoints so that all i have to do is tighten down the main nuts that hold on the knuckle on, because to ease up and quicken install, im putting new balljoints into the flatop knuckle, instead of trying to reuse the old balljoints(and yes they will be reaplace as a new pair) and any tricks to removing the old driver sides nuts and cone washers without resorting to a BFH (ie maybe a propane torch to heat up?) thanks |
08-04-2005, 01:45 AM | #2 |
'87 V20 4x4
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: South Western Ohio
Posts: 1,073
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08-04-2005, 06:40 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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You'll still have to hit the driver side steering arm w/ a BFH, even w/ heat.
I don't think you can "pretension" the ball joints, shouldn't take long: torque the sleeve, then lower nut then upper nut. There will be directions w/ the upper balljoint.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
08-04-2005, 10:47 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Central florida
Posts: 3,223
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i still need answers on installing the studs into the new knuckle
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08-04-2005, 11:56 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Central Colorado
Posts: 38
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I would install them w/ anti-seize to facilitate gettin' them back out some day. Hand tighten them & then double-nut them (bottom nut as a jam nut & top one to turn the stud) to snug 'em down, but don't overdo it. Make sure you don't loosen' the studs when ya remove the nuts. Install your steering arm & torque the nut as per the steering arm specs. You may have to go to your local library & look in a Chilton PROFESSIONAL SERVICE TRADE EDITION (or somethin' like that) manual for the vehicle year of the axles to get the proper torque for the steering arm studs. Make sure you either use a lock-nut or nut/lockwasher on the studs. You don't want one of those steering arms comin' loose. If ya use a nut/lockwasher, some antiseize on the nut is a good idea.
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'71 K20 Custom Deluxe - 1 owner - Original 350 & 4 spd, Rams horn dual exhaust, Centerforce clutch, K&N 4"x15", factory tow hooks, 4" Skyjacker Softride, Rancho RSX9000s, custom Firestone AirRide overloads, 36" 305/85R16 10ply Buckshot Mudders, 4.11 gears |
08-04-2005, 03:42 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: NW, WA.
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Take some pics along the way, I'd like to see this too.
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08-09-2005, 03:13 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Wa. State
Posts: 352
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You will need to locktite the studs and in my application I needed to upgrade to 5/8" studs. I'm assuming your doing highsteer as well? Use some new lock nuts on everthing, and check the torque on everything often.
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