Dim headlight

[Purs]

My drivers side headlight is very dim on the low beam setting. If I put it on high beam it looks the same as the passenger side, just fine. I checked the wiring and connections and it looks clean and solid. Is it just the headlamp itself or am I missing something? thanks.

[Stocker]

Could be the headlight - swap them and see if the problem follows the headlight. If not, you should check voltage at the headlight connector. I can't recall if each light has its own wiring from the dimmer switch, but that's another possibility.

[Americanrider]

Sounds like a grounding problem, easy to check and easier to fix.

[Longhorn Man]

Probably going to be the bulb. it won't be the ground, and that'll be the first thing most ppl will say, but it isn't. (one ground wire per lamp, and the high beam works fin on that ground...with additional amperage too)

[Purs]

thanks everyone for the input.

I'm sure this has been discussed before but is there a decent affordable upgrade to the stock bulbs or should I just get OEM ones?

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Purs

thanks everyone for the input.

I'm sure this has been discussed before but is there a decent affordable upgrade to the stock bulbs or should I just get OEM ones?

Just get a pair of halogen bulbs at Wal*Mart.
Then use the wires GM put in to turn on one relay for low beams and one relay for high beams.
Use 8 or 10 gauge wire from the battey to the relay and from the relay to the headlight.
I also replaced the stock ground wires from the headlight connector to the core support with 10 gauge.

IMHO the "upgrade" bulbs aren't worth the price.

Not to mention that if you wire up the relays and need a bulb in the middle of nowhere, you can just bop in to Wal*Mart and get another halogen off the shelf for less than $10.

What are you going to do when your Chinese made "upgrade" light housing cracks? You think you will be able to find a matching replacement?

[mocwon]

Originally Posted by mrein3

What are you going to do when your Chinese made "upgrade" light housing cracks? You think you will be able to find a matching replacement?

Not too worried about that. I can't remember the last time I broke a headlight that didn't involve smashing the front end of the vehicle into some other vehicle or an inanimate object. The headlight replacement seems like such a small thing in those cases.

[Longhorn Man]

One man's budget upgrade, is another man's whole budget.

It all depends on how much you wanna spend. You can get some on e-bay normally. They usually retail (for the cheaper ones) in the $100 range, but e-bay can be pretty cheap.
If you upgrade, then don't forget to wire in relays. Otherwise, you will be taxing your stock decrepid harness and switches.

I say try a set of new sealed beam halogins, clean your grounds up real good, and install relays...then aim them properly.
Do all this, and you'll be amazed at what you'll be able to see at night.

[Purs]

Thanks Longhorn Man. I've got relays running my electric fans now and more planned for the lights when the budget allows. However, for now I'll probably have to settle for the new bulbs and cleaning of the grounds.

[cdowns]

lokking at connections and thinking they're good isn't as good as cleaning the connections and knowing they're good

[mocwon]

Rick's Pickup Truck Parts has the upgraded bulbs. I bought mine there for like $45 for the pair. They have the removable inner bulb and glass headlight. A great upgrade at a very fair price. Ask for Shawn, chances are he'll answer the phone anyway.

For some unknown reason this board won't accept the url but it is:

"ricks pickup parts" without the spaces and with www. in front and .com at the end

[Purs]

sweet! thanks mocwon!

[Longhorn Man]

I guess it has been too long since i priced those huh?

[Stocker]

Not a hijack attempt, but to add to this discussion and maybe clarify something....

If an "upgrade" doesn't include high wattage bulbs - i.e., you are not exceeding 55W low/60W high (typical standard H4 bulb), is there a need to add relays? Of course, this assumes your wiring, though old, is in good condition.

I understand the benefits of relays, I'm just wondering if the stock wiring isn't capable of carrying standard current without adding relays.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by Stocker

Not a hijack attempt, but to add to this discussion and maybe clarify something....

If an "upgrade" doesn't include high wattage bulbs - i.e., you are not exceeding 55W low/60W high (typical standard H4 bulb), is there a need to add relays? Of course, this assumes your wiring, though old, is in good condition.

I understand the benefits of relays, I'm just wondering if the stock wiring isn't capable of carrying standard current without adding relays.

That is the problem. The stock wiring can't carry the load.
Just do a simple test. Turn your lights on and put a volt meter on the back of the headlight socket.

I forget the exact numbers but I tested mine right before I did the relay upgrade. I was getting something like 10.6 or 10.7 volts at the light. There is approximately 20 feet of 16 or so gauge wire that runs from the battery to the switch to the lights. Lots of voltage is lost there. After the upgrade I was getting over 12 volts at the light.

Relays turn your headlight switch into a relay controller. You may have to replace a relay every once in a while but your headlight switch will quit burning out from all that voltage running through it.

[Longhorn Man]

that is correct. The stock wires can't handle the typical hall mart replacement...or any other bulb you'll find.
You CAN get away with it, and most ppl do with no problem, BUT, the wires, switches, and connections were not made for that kind of load, and the 2 to 3 volt drop sounds like nothing, but it makes a huge improvement.
Ever seen some one coming towards you at night with orangeish headlights, and when you pas by them you see it is an old 70's or older car....that is why, and your truck may well be one of them everyone else in noticing.

[mocwon]

I'm a believer. Even though mine's not on the road yet a relay is a cheap "switch" to get direct battery power to the lights without the voltage drop caused by stock wiring.