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08-22-2005, 12:58 PM
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#1 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Posts: 54
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Header Bolt Hell
There must be some way to keep the header bolts in the heads. I have to torque them every 20 or so miles. I'm almost ready to flash weld them to the header plate and when i need to replace the gaskets, I'll just grind off the weld. Does anyone have any ideas?
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08-22-2005, 12:59 PM
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#2 |
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Tightwad
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Louisiana
Posts: 408
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They sell some locks you can buy in summit!!!
Eric |
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08-22-2005, 01:10 PM
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#3 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,051
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They're great, but a PITA to install!
it's an allen headed bolt that is sloted for a cam that fits up against your header tube. |
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08-22-2005, 01:30 PM
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#4 |
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Java Mechanic
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Martinsburg, WV
Posts: 6,763
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( Looking around... ) I've been known to use a spot of locktight on those things ...
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Keith 11 Lincoln MKT -- Momma's wagon  13 G37xS -- middle age crazy car 68 C20 Fleetside -- RIP Decorating the whole town up at a cost of $27 .... |
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08-22-2005, 01:37 PM
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#5 |
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Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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Cut the header flanges and use mainfold gaskets. (about 7 bucks).
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08-22-2005, 01:38 PM
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#6 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: tampa florida
Posts: 776
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I had a 440HP vette that shook everything loose. I put stage 8 bolts in the headers and they never came loose again. Current Summit catalog p. 58. Part # STG-8911A for the 1" bolts. THESE WORK!
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08-22-2005, 01:41 PM
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#7 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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Cutting the flanges works.................And doesnt cost 30 bucks.
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08-22-2005, 02:02 PM
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#8 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: florence alabama
Posts: 81
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I had bolts come loose a lot a long time ago. I found out I was overtightening them and warping the flange. I now use copper gaskets and right torque and I havn't had to retorque them in two years
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72 Custom Deluxe, Viper red with a 383 HT |
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08-22-2005, 02:22 PM
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#9 | |
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Mike
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: west chester pa
Posts: 2,473
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Quote:
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70'c/10, 71 suburban4x4 402bb, 72suburban 4/6 drop, 72k/5 4x4 blazer 4" lift 35 tires Last edited by smokekiki; 08-22-2005 at 02:23 PM. |
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08-22-2005, 02:38 PM
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#10 |
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Account Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,051
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Why do you think they make them in a solid flange?
Not trying to be funny, just seriously curious. |
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08-22-2005, 02:07 PM
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#11 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
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http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=167671
Here is a recent thread about header bolts and it has a wide variety of solutions.
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Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck. |
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08-22-2005, 02:46 PM
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#12 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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Cheaper to make. Welding the tubes onto the flanges warps the flange.
Oh and have you noticed that its basically the small block headers the people are having probems with? Last edited by Mudder; 08-22-2005 at 02:48 PM. |
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08-22-2005, 03:02 PM
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#13 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Independence MO
Posts: 87
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Copper gaskets and breslin locking bolts......never mess with them again
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72 C10 longbed 5/7 drop, Telstars, 350/th400(for now) 69 Chevelle SS396 (427/th400) 88 K5 on 35's (355/700R4/208) |
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08-22-2005, 03:17 PM
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#14 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Melissa, TX
Posts: 799
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Subscribing to follow the thread.....
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68 short bed driver (71 clip on it now, swapping to 68 when weather cooperates) 67 short step project (will get SWB from the 68) 67 Camaro, #'s matching (my wife's) 03 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 diesel 5 speed 4.10 rear Last edited by fade94; 08-22-2005 at 03:17 PM. |
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08-22-2005, 03:44 PM
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#15 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SOMERSET KY.
Posts: 6,425
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Stage "8" Locking Header Bolts. They May Cost Around $30 But If You Have $400 Or $500 In A Set Of Good Headers, You May Not Be To Receptive To Going The Hacksaw Rought. John
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junkyardjohn 69 1 TON TOW TRUCK // 84 4WD CUCV BLAZER// 85 1 TON 4WD STAKE TRUCK// 86 M1031 5/4 TON 4WD CUCV// ALOT OF OLD TRUCKS FOR ONE OLD MAN TO DRIVE.  THERES ROOM FOR ALL OF GODS CREATURES RIGHT NEXT TO MY MASHED POTATOES//LIFE MEMBER OF P.E.T.A (PEOPLE EATING TASTY ANIMALS) DON'T RENT U-HAUL ALWAYS TELL THE TRUTH IT WILL AMAZE PART OF THE PEOPLE & ASTONISH THE REST |
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08-22-2005, 04:34 PM
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#16 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Posts: 54
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The headers are a cheap set that came with the truck. I need to spend my remaining penny collection on a tail gate for it so I'm intrigued with cutting the flange. Could someone explain it to me?
Thanks Richard
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08-22-2005, 05:10 PM
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#17 | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
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Quote:
Look at Mudder67 posts. You will see the flange cut. The end result would be four cuts. This is a very old procedure. I have seen it done at a reacetrack before. Some company used to make them without a solid flange and I am guessing that was a nightmare for production. I am guessing if you took your headers off and laid a straight edge on the head-side of the flange you would see they are not level. If you bolt these to something that does not move (a head) the metal has to go somewhere. If the flanges are cut there is more wiggle room. BTW, it looks like Mudder67 cut a pair of expensive ceramic coated block huggers, so it must work for him.
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Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck. |
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08-22-2005, 05:03 PM
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#18 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Alexandria, VA
Posts: 1,534
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Mudder makes two cuts per header in the long spans between the tubes. I'm thinking cutting them relieves the stress of expansion and contraction which will cause the flange to work the bolts loose. Just my theory.
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'72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.  
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08-22-2005, 07:57 PM
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#19 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 335
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The other item to consider, are you supporting the rear of your headers with something other than the exhaust pipe that it is bolted too?
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08-22-2005, 11:07 PM
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#20 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Tampa
Posts: 1,191
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Drill a hole through the heads of the bolts and safety wire them together in pairs.
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'68 Short Step LS1/T56, Hydratech, Fatman Fabrications Stage III, Baer, Hot Rods to Hell, US Body, S&W, etc |
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08-22-2005, 11:31 PM
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#21 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 1,255
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There might be some difficulty tie-wiring the back header bolts while they are in the truck.
Good thought on the tailpipe being supported before the X or H pipe or muffler. Have we confused you enough Just do what is best for you and what you can afford.
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Got bored, sold everthing. Got bored, looking for a 1960-66 C-10. Want to build my last truck. |
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08-23-2005, 03:32 AM
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#22 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Indianapolis,IN
Posts: 148
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I like the safety wire idea. It is cheap but time consuming.
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"When cows laugh, does milk come out of their nose?" |
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08-23-2005, 04:28 AM
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#23 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: East Central, MO
Posts: 11,336
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I have been cutting the flanges for about 15 years now. I run super comps and I had them coated after they were cut. I am also using stainless header bolts which can't be tightened that tight. The heads seem to round off really easy. I'm thinking this is the third set fo headers I have cut and I have had no problems with leaking gaskets or bolts working loose. I have no other brackets holding the exhaust other than the straps that hold the mufflers on. I tried one kind of locking bolts and they where a pain. Heres where I cut them and a pic of what they look like on my truck.
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08-23-2005, 06:17 AM
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#24 |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: missouri
Posts: 136
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install lock washers on each bolt they may need to be thin walled washers to clear the header tubes, rarely ever have a gasket start leaking since ive installed lock washers you will still probably have to retighten them once.
im sure loctite on the threads along with lock washers should keep them from loosening. |
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08-25-2005, 03:34 PM
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#25 |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Santa Cruz, California
Posts: 54
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Thanks everyone for the great ideas. Didn't know there are so many options to try. Does it matter how wide the cut is? Also, do the flanges need any special tolerance between them?
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