Gas tank cleaning - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

TruckinDaddy · 09-11-2005, 12:05 AM

This afternoon I pulled the gas tank today from inside the cab. It is full of rust and sludge. Now I am trying to decide on how to clean it. Several people have suggested letting a rdiator shop clean and seal it.

Anyone have experiences with having it done at a shop versus Eastwood or POR products that I could do myself?

Zeke · 09-11-2005, 08:37 AM

I did the Eastwood thing, good idea but a lot of work. Uses muratic acid (not part of kit) which is pretty nasty stuff. I tried to revive a junk Nissan tank with internal baffle and was not real happy with results, couldn't get all the excess sealer out and it made a big blob in one corner. By the time I got the stuff, cleaned the tank and sealed it my original with the 12" gash in it was aired out enough the welding shop would weld it for $10 no leaks and clean. Did learn one thing Eastwoods Metal Wash is a good degreaser and does prevent flash rust. I would have a radiator shop do it or try to find a cleaner tank. If you decide to do it yourself get everything set up and give youself a whole day to complete, once you start you can't stop.

TruckinDaddy · 09-11-2005, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zeke

give youself a whole day to complete, once you start you can't stop.

Wow, great advice. I never seem to have more than a couple of hours at a time for truck stuff.

Thanks for the info, guys.

cdowns · 09-11-2005, 10:59 AM

i did it once ,won't ever do it again// i'll take to a shop or replace b-4 i go thru that again

**BOSS** · 09-11-2005, 08:59 AM

I had a radiator shop clean and coat mine and was very pleased.

Fred T · 09-11-2005, 05:53 PM

I've done both for our museum with tanks that are not available. Around here the problem is the cost of getting a tank boiled. Only one radiator shop left that boils, and he has a line at the door. Last time I called the price was approaching one Ben Franklin!

The POR tank sealer is a good product, but you must follow their instructions to the letter, or the stuff won't stick and it's tough to get out. Best results without getting a tank boiled have been with the following: Put a handful of hex nuts that are 1/2" or bigger in the tank. Used ones if possible, the finish will be stripped from them. Then mix the Marine Clean with hot water and pour in the tank. Rock the tank in order to knock loose the junk letting the nuts do the abrasive work, mainly on the bottom of the tank. Rinse and dump out the nuts. At this point, diluted muriatic acid can be used, but it must immediately be neutralized with baking soda. The acid will remove the rust, but it will also open up any pinhole leaks. Unless the rust is heavy, I avoid the acid. Then treat with the metal ready and apply the tank sealer per the instructions. It's very important for the tank to be dry before sealing. One way the speed up the drying is to connect the exhaust of a shop vac, but be sure the vac is clean, you don't want to blow in dirty air.

All in all, it is a lot of work and costs some bucks to clean a tank. I opt for a new one when possible, it's a lot easier and not near the headache.

70short/step · 09-11-2005, 06:23 PM

I worked at a Radiator shop many years ago and doing it at home I cant believe that you can do as good of Job! You dont have any mess taking it to the radiator shop...No fumes and no explosions either! Yeah, we had a couple of guys bring in tanks that they tried to do thierselves. The products now days are probablly better than back then, But There is no way I would try it at home!

xam · 09-12-2005, 05:55 PM

Nuetralizing with baking soda solution is a good idea, But also try to find phosphoric acid instead of muriatic basically acid without the chlorine component MUCH less likely to flash rust. As said I used to own a blast shop and have cleaned / coated hundreds no kidding of auto and motorcycle tanks. To much info to list so be careful.

junkyarddog67 · 09-12-2005, 06:30 PM

I have a tank that I pulled from a 71 GMC. I think they are the same. If you are interested, I would like $25.00 plus shipping. I'd give it to you but the closest greyhound station is 90 miles one away. Let me know if you are interested.

motocrosschump · 09-13-2005, 09:11 AM

Vinegar will nuetralize the acid also.

Pilgrim · 09-13-2005, 01:58 PM

OSPHO is the brand name for commercially available phosphoric acid. Works well.

09-11-2005, 12:05 AM	#1
TruckinDaddy What's that funky smell? Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 610	Gas tank cleaning This afternoon I pulled the gas tank today from inside the cab. It is full of rust and sludge. Now I am trying to decide on how to clean it. Several people have suggested letting a rdiator shop clean and seal it. Anyone have experiences with having it done at a shop versus Eastwood or POR products that I could do myself? __________________ Mike S 68 C10 Long Step (Pretending to be a Long Fleetside) Grandpa's Farm Truck 3 on the tree, 307, No power brakes or steering Factory Options - HD rear spring and Ammeter/Oil Gauges My truck blog My Car Domain page

09-11-2005, 08:37 AM	#2
Zeke Active Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: L.A. Lower Alabama Posts: 453	I did the Eastwood thing, good idea but a lot of work. Uses muratic acid (not part of kit) which is pretty nasty stuff. I tried to revive a junk Nissan tank with internal baffle and was not real happy with results, couldn't get all the excess sealer out and it made a big blob in one corner. By the time I got the stuff, cleaned the tank and sealed it my original with the 12" gash in it was aired out enough the welding shop would weld it for $10 no leaks and clean. Did learn one thing Eastwoods Metal Wash is a good degreaser and does prevent flash rust. I would have a radiator shop do it or try to find a cleaner tank. If you decide to do it yourself get everything set up and give youself a whole day to complete, once you start you can't stop. __________________ 1969 C10 350 3spd 1995 GMC 3500 XC 350 dually When Thomas Edison worked late into the night on the electric light, he had to do it by gas lamp or candle. I'm sure it made the work seem that much more urgent. George Carlin

09-11-2005, 10:59 AM	#4
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	i did it once ,won't ever do it again// i'll take to a shop or replace b-4 i go thru that again __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

09-11-2005, 08:59 AM	#5
BOSS Just here to help Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Norwood,Mo Posts: 3,890	I had a radiator shop clean and coat mine and was very pleased. __________________ Support our site Norwood Survivor

09-11-2005, 05:53 PM	#6
Fred T Cantankerous Geezer Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Bel Aire, KS Posts: 6,264	I've done both for our museum with tanks that are not available. Around here the problem is the cost of getting a tank boiled. Only one radiator shop left that boils, and he has a line at the door. Last time I called the price was approaching one Ben Franklin! The POR tank sealer is a good product, but you must follow their instructions to the letter, or the stuff won't stick and it's tough to get out. Best results without getting a tank boiled have been with the following: Put a handful of hex nuts that are 1/2" or bigger in the tank. Used ones if possible, the finish will be stripped from them. Then mix the Marine Clean with hot water and pour in the tank. Rock the tank in order to knock loose the junk letting the nuts do the abrasive work, mainly on the bottom of the tank. Rinse and dump out the nuts. At this point, diluted muriatic acid can be used, but it must immediately be neutralized with baking soda. The acid will remove the rust, but it will also open up any pinhole leaks. Unless the rust is heavy, I avoid the acid. Then treat with the metal ready and apply the tank sealer per the instructions. It's very important for the tank to be dry before sealing. One way the speed up the drying is to connect the exhaust of a shop vac, but be sure the vac is clean, you don't want to blow in dirty air. All in all, it is a lot of work and costs some bucks to clean a tank. I opt for a new one when possible, it's a lot easier and not near the headache. __________________ Fred There is no such thing as too much cam...just not enough engine.

09-11-2005, 06:23 PM	#7
70short/step Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Stockton, CA Posts: 1,579	I worked at a Radiator shop many years ago and doing it at home I cant believe that you can do as good of Job! You dont have any mess taking it to the radiator shop...No fumes and no explosions either! Yeah, we had a couple of guys bring in tanks that they tried to do thierselves. The products now days are probablly better than back then, But There is no way I would try it at home! __________________ For every person with a spark of genius, There are a hundred with ignition trouble. 70 Short/Step

09-12-2005, 05:55 PM	#8
xam Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: maryland Posts: 34	Nuetralizing with baking soda solution is a good idea, But also try to find phosphoric acid instead of muriatic basically acid without the chlorine component MUCH less likely to flash rust. As said I used to own a blast shop and have cleaned / coated hundreds no kidding of auto and motorcycle tanks. To much info to list so be careful.

09-12-2005, 06:30 PM	#9
junkyarddog67 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: arizona Posts: 54	Gas tank I have a tank that I pulled from a 71 GMC. I think they are the same. If you are interested, I would like $25.00 plus shipping. I'd give it to you but the closest greyhound station is 90 miles one away. Let me know if you are interested. Attached Images

09-13-2005, 09:11 AM	#10
motocrosschump Registered User Join Date: May 2005 Location: Texarkana, AR 71854 Posts: 397	Vinegar will nuetralize the acid also. __________________ 2006 Titan SE Crew Cab Daily Driver 2005 Mazda Tribute (Wifes car) 1969 C10 SWB 350/3 Fleet "Max" 1969 Chevelle 2 door 350/3

09-13-2005, 01:58 PM	#11
Pilgrim Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Crescent City, FL Posts: 492	OSPHO is the brand name for commercially available phosphoric acid. Works well. __________________ Bob 68 C20 Camper Special



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