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Old 09-18-2005, 11:31 PM   #1
Whynot
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1968 Ls-1

Hey Guys ! Any of you running a LS-1 besides me in your 67-72 ? Thinkin about maybe gettin some headers. Want to see if any of you had bought some that worked out. I rather stay with the stock GM, if yours are lower then the frame. The trucks got a 5.5 - 6" drop. Recomended by " TexasFireFighter"
With 29"dia. tires Just lookin for some input. Thanks Tracy
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Old 09-18-2005, 11:33 PM   #2
Joe67
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Here is an LS1 based 6.0l conversion

http://home.comcast.net/~taylortsims/C10.html
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Old 09-19-2005, 09:07 AM   #3
shifty
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See the link to pictures in my sig regularly for picture updates of my LS1/T56 swap progress. I should be posting pictures of the engine and tranny bolted up tonight or tomorrow. I'm in the process of the swap right now.

I'm going to do a full article here when I finish as a little howto/faq type deal. In the meanwhile, I started a thread over at LS1tech.com just in case I hit some snafus, I can ask them about it over there. Here's a link:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370781

There are a LOT of good links in that thread to articles here and there and to various photo albums of other people doing the same swaps. LOTS of good info in there. I highly suggest you hit that link

Good luck and - have fun with it. My biggest suggestions to you, if you want to learn from my experience so far:

Make sure you get everything with the engine. The big things:
PCM (computer)
Entire wiring harness
Get the MAF and airbox!!!
All peripherals (intake, PS pump, alternator, etc.)
Try to get cats/manifolds and all O² sensors (even if you won't need them)
Try to get the entire pedal assembly (clutch/brake/gas, even the hunk of firewall attached, if possible)
If you're going with a manual tranny BE SURE you ask for the clutch pedal master cylinder assembly ("hydraulic actuator") and resevoir with all lines
Fuel pump and tank, if possible

Basically get anything and everything you can get. It's better to have too much than too little. The little things add up when you gotta buy them. Example of things I didn't get and gotta pay for now:

Radiator and electric fans: $150 (eBay)
"Hydraulic actuator" master cylinder assembly + resevoir: $128 (new from my friend Bill at gmotors.com)
Shifter: $150-200 for Pro 5.0 shifter (I would have upgraded, but ...)
Gas tank and in-tank fuel pump: $300+

So, you see, that's almost $800 in only four parts I could have asked for - be wise, get everything. If I forgot to ask for the MAF, I woulda been shelling out another couple hundred. That's not everything either. I'll find more stuff as I go. Expect to pay at least $1,000 for additional parts that you missed.

I suggest doing an '01 or newer LS1, they stopped doing the EGR at the intake after '00 (realized it wasn't necessary). I would go for a 5.7L. Decide on a tranny now - 6spd or automatic - and try to get a combo package where they're coming out of a salvaged low-mileage car . Expect to pay around $3k for the pair (+/- $1,000).

ECE (early classic enterprises) sells a GenIII motor mount kit to make an LS1 directly bolt-up to our trucks ($250, worth every penny, it's superb quality, I'll have pics posted at my gallery soon).

You'll need an automatic tranny crossmember. You may need to drill a couple extra holes in the frame or xmember to use the GenIII mount kit or to get the tranny to bolt up.

You'll end up having to custom cut your driveshaft to the correct length. Any performance/hotrod shop around you should be able to do this. There is a trick to it - I have a link with more info at home. It's basically something like ... insert the driveshaft into the tranny all the way, measure to the gearbox, mark it and either add or subtract an inch from that mark to get the correct length. Again, ask and I can get you that info.

There is a great article in "Classic Trucks" magazine this month about how to convert an LS1 to a carb setup (kills the need for a harness and computer) with TH350 or 700R4 tranny. You'd need to do some extra stuff to use a newer tranny with it. Seems like a good deal, makes for an easier swap.

There's my 50¢ on the topic.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link)

I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM.

Last edited by shifty; 09-19-2005 at 09:08 AM.
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:34 AM   #4
Frizzle Fry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shifty
See the link to pictures in my sig regularly for picture updates of my LS1/T56 swap progress. I should be posting pictures of the engine and tranny bolted up tonight or tomorrow. I'm in the process of the swap right now.

I'm going to do a full article here when I finish as a little howto/faq type deal. In the meanwhile, I started a thread over at LS1tech.com just in case I hit some snafus, I can ask them about it over there. Here's a link:

http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370781

There are a LOT of good links in that thread to articles here and there and to various photo albums of other people doing the same swaps. LOTS of good info in there. I highly suggest you hit that link

Good luck and - have fun with it. My biggest suggestions to you, if you want to learn from my experience so far:

Make sure you get everything with the engine. The big things:
PCM (computer)
Entire wiring harness
Get the MAF and airbox!!!
All peripherals (intake, PS pump, alternator, etc.)
Try to get cats/manifolds and all O² sensors (even if you won't need them)
Try to get the entire pedal assembly (clutch/brake/gas, even the hunk of firewall attached, if possible)
If you're going with a manual tranny BE SURE you ask for the clutch pedal master cylinder assembly ("hydraulic actuator") and resevoir with all lines
Fuel pump and tank, if possible

Basically get anything and everything you can get. It's better to have too much than too little. The little things add up when you gotta buy them. Example of things I didn't get and gotta pay for now:

Radiator and electric fans: $150 (eBay)
"Hydraulic actuator" master cylinder assembly + resevoir: $128 (new from my friend Bill at gmotors.com)
Shifter: $150-200 for Pro 5.0 shifter (I would have upgraded, but ...)
Gas tank and in-tank fuel pump: $300+

So, you see, that's almost $800 in only four parts I could have asked for - be wise, get everything. If I forgot to ask for the MAF, I woulda been shelling out another couple hundred. That's not everything either. I'll find more stuff as I go. Expect to pay at least $1,000 for additional parts that you missed.

I suggest doing an '01 or newer LS1, they stopped doing the EGR at the intake after '00 (realized it wasn't necessary). I would go for a 5.7L. Decide on a tranny now - 6spd or automatic - and try to get a combo package where they're coming out of a salvaged low-mileage car . Expect to pay around $3k for the pair (+/- $1,000).

ECE (early classic enterprises) sells a GenIII motor mount kit to make an LS1 directly bolt-up to our trucks ($250, worth every penny, it's superb quality, I'll have pics posted at my gallery soon).

You'll need an automatic tranny crossmember. You may need to drill a couple extra holes in the frame or xmember to use the GenIII mount kit or to get the tranny to bolt up.

You'll end up having to custom cut your driveshaft to the correct length. Any performance/hotrod shop around you should be able to do this. There is a trick to it - I have a link with more info at home. It's basically something like ... insert the driveshaft into the tranny all the way, measure to the gearbox, mark it and either add or subtract an inch from that mark to get the correct length. Again, ask and I can get you that info.

There is a great article in "Classic Trucks" magazine this month about how to convert an LS1 to a carb setup (kills the need for a harness and computer) with TH350 or 700R4 tranny. You'd need to do some extra stuff to use a newer tranny with it. Seems like a good deal, makes for an easier swap.

There's my 50¢ on the topic.
I've seen your stuff on LS1tech. I go by the same name (Frizzle Fry) over there. Fortunately for me my engine is stayin where it is, so C5 headers will work fine. I just have to make a body go where it wasn't intended to... Still a lot of stuff to figure out though.

Thanks for documenting your work. It'll make the LS7 swap into the Burb a whole lot easier
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:12 AM   #5
djracer
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I have a set of edelbrock hedders I'd sell! I aquired them in a trade. They are a direct replacement for stock manifolds! If interested I'll get you pics and price.
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Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK!

My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4

So Far my best Times are:

Motor only:
6.44 1/8 @ 104.13
10.39 1/4 @ 125.83

Nitrous Times:
5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft
9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!
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Old 09-19-2005, 02:29 PM   #6
shifty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djracer
I have a set of edelbrock hedders I'd sell! I aquired them in a trade. They are a direct replacement for stock manifolds! If interested I'll get you pics and price.
Got pics? Any idea if they'll have clearance issues with my setup? I was told that I can't use stock manifolds and cats (cats are going byebye anyway) because they wouldn't clear the frame. I heard you can use stock Corvette manifolds, but not sure.

I'd like to find headers that will fit and retain one O² bung. I may not ever need it, I don't mind deleting the rear O² bung, I'd just like to leave options open and don't want to buy any O² sims later.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link)

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Old 09-19-2005, 03:20 PM   #7
djracer
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they are edelbrock 65022 for 01-05 pickup they are ceramic coated and I'd take 200.00 plus the ride! They were on a friends 6.0 ss truck for a short time!
__________________
Kevin

Special Thanks to All who have helped on the TRUCK!

My Pass Time Show http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...Chapter1-0.mp4

So Far my best Times are:

Motor only:
6.44 1/8 @ 104.13
10.39 1/4 @ 125.83

Nitrous Times:
5.785 1/8 @ 118.65 with a 1.336 60ft
9.168 1/4 @ 142.58 with a 250 shot dead out of the hole!
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Old 09-19-2005, 03:38 PM   #8
shifty
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Edelbrock 65022 look like they're for 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0. No mention of 5.7.

Looks like they do not have A.I.R. and EGR setup, so no bungs. I'd hafta really think about that one. Well, it doesn't have one or the other. I don't want the A.I.R., but I think it's the EGR I would want? Not sure. $200 would be a good price if that included shipping.
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Last edited by shifty; 09-19-2005 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 09-19-2005, 11:59 PM   #9
Whynot
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I'm not sure. But I was told headers from a new truck like you have 01-05 will not fit a 67-72. Maybe someone know more.
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Old 09-20-2005, 01:23 AM   #10
Whynot
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I see some of you are going with a T-56 Trans. I thought of that,but the only ones I have found were in camaros, firebirds and stangs. To me the shifter sits to far back,up against the truck seat. I know the S-10 has one,but hear it was not strong enough. Also I was told the 5 speed from a full size late model truck was geared lower. What trans. are you using ??
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Old 09-20-2005, 01:27 AM   #11
shifty
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I'm using T56. The shifter does sit a little farther back. I don't know if it's possible to move i forward or not. You can just bed the bar if needed.
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Old 09-20-2005, 10:47 AM   #12
FirstGen
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There is a company that moves the shifter plate location forward to the other top plate on the T56. They charge alot of money to do it but it can be done. If someone is really interested in putting 750+ into this idea I will look for the link...
-Taylor
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Old 09-20-2005, 10:37 PM   #13
Whynot
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So you guys don't have any trouble with your camaro T-56 hiting anything like the seat. When shifting it. Or are you using bucket seats.
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Old 09-20-2005, 11:05 PM   #14
shifty
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FirstGen has buddy buckets last time I saw pictures. I've got a bench, so I have some obstacles to overcome.
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