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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 1,397
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Electrical question - Truck dies while driving
I am fully aware that this truck needs to be rewired. However, I can't afford that right now and need to find out what the problem is. I am stumped.
My 67' always fires right up. The problem only seems to happen once it's warmed up and is very inconsistant. I can drive at 35mph or 65mph and the truck will die, make backfires (that sound like gunshots and scares the hell out of my girlfriend), the radio dies, the tach will go all the way around completely clockwise. Sometimes the truck will pick itself back up and keep running. Other times, it won't. So as soon as I feel the truck fall on it's face...I'll throw it into neutral and turn the key off. It's got an HEI distributor. I thought maybe it was the ignition module so I grabbed one out of another old distributor. I noticed that the one in the truck didn't have any grease on it and pops said that it should...it needs the grease to actually held transfer heat out of it and into the dist. instead of cooking itself. Anyway, the truck still has the same problem. It just seems to lose all electrical power. Sometimes it will come back on it's own, sometimes not. It always restarts. But it's definately taking the reliability/dependability away from driving the truck. What's going on? Any ideas? Another bad ign. module? Bad Battery? Bad Ground? Ignition switch power problem? Thanks!
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Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com |
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#2 |
I'm watching you!
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Levittown, PA
Posts: 1,822
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With the HEI did you replace the power wire to the distributer? The original wire cuts the voltage to the distributer to help protect the points, which does not leave enough voltage for the HEI.
Just a thought. Mike
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2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Z71 4WD 1993 Chevrolet C-1500 W/T - Blue - 4.3L V-6, 4 speed auto - Dad's (RIP) 1992 Chevrolet S10 - LS swap project 1968 Chevrolet C-10 longbed fleetside - sold ![]() |
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#3 |
Old Skool Club
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
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Shades of my past....
I ultimately gave up on my HEI, and bought an ACCEL replacement HEI for my '69. In my case, I later determined that the wire from the pick-up coil, to the module, had broken. What I experienced was letting off of the gas, on occasions, would then be followed by the truck dying. It would then restart, like nothing was wrong. Finally, on New Years Day of '03, I was headed to get some hog jowl for my black eye peas (Southern thing, y'all) and it died. A woman pulled up behind me (I was at an intersection, waiting to turn left) and she started honking at me. I tried cranking it, but quickly smelled gas so I quit doin' that. She kept honking at me, through the second change of the lights. I went to her and told her that I'd be glad to honk her horn, if she would start my truck. While old enough to be married, she had her mom in there, too. She started sputtering and said something about me needing to buy a new truck. A policeman buddy came and pushed me into an adjacent parking lot and that was the end of that saga. I had changed modules, twice, using the heat sink compound and was totally at odds as to why it was doing what it did. When I became convincedd that the distributor was the source of the problem, changing it was my immediate remedy and it worked. Fires hotter, now. I haven't had a fouled plug in the almost three years since it was installed. Good luck.
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Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
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#4 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 1,397
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Quote:
The previous owner installed the HEI. I've probably put 1500-2000 miles on it before this problem arose. I should probably check to see where the power is coming from either way. Maybe there is a break in the wiring somewhere. Thanks...
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Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com |
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#5 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 23,090
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There should be two ground wires in your distributor cap. One from the coil to the cap and another from the cap to where you plug the power and tach wires. Shifty had some good pics, but with the search down it may be difficult to find them. Mine was missing the latter wire and I fried two modules and a coil before I figured it out. My power wire had always been connected to the IGN UNFUSED slot, so that narrowed my options. Good luck with 'er.
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Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride ![]() American Born, Country by the Grace of God ![]() 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! |
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#6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: missouri
Posts: 136
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if your losing the radio also when the problem occurs it has to be a power feed problem check the positive cable all the way to the starter closely for bare spots and check all connections such for loose connection at the power distribution block, make sure no wires are laying on exhuast manifold orto close to exhuast
Last edited by bejay; 10-03-2005 at 03:17 PM. |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Ponder, TX
Posts: 33
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If all the other suggestions don't help, try and disconnect the tack at the distributor. My (aftermarket) tack died a few years ago, and caused the truck to just die. No spark at the plugs at all. After messing around with it for a while, we tried unplugging the tack from the HEI dist, and it started right up. In your case, you may just have a momentary grounding problem in the tach.
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'67 1/2 Ton Short Bed / 396 cid / AC w-R134a / 5 Lug Leaf spring rear axel / 5 Lug Frt Disk Brake Conversion '97 Trans Am - Black / LT-1 / K&N FIPK Cold Air Kit / Hooker Cat-Back Exhaust / 160 Thermostat '02 Buick Regal GS / Bone Stock |
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#8 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 1,397
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Quote:
Very Interesting...this is a repro factory tach. I'm going to start by checking out all my power wires. It's so infrequent that I may not know right away. It's wierd how the tach does a full circle while the truck is backfiring. One of my dad's buddy's told him that's how tach's reset themselves...
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#9 |
Old Skool Club
![]() Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Benton, AR "The Heart of Arkansas"
Posts: 10,880
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On my note above, my problem began when I changed out the vacuum advance. Letting off of the gas, caused the breaker plate to move and that allowed the wire from the pickup coil to the module, to break.
I don't think that the problem I had, is necessarily what you are experiencing.
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Member Nr. 2770 '96 GMC Sportside; 4.3/SLT - Daily driven....constantly needs washed. '69 C-10 SWB; 350/TH400 - in limbo The older I get, the better I was. |
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#10 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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one other note that i haven't seen...heatsoak will cause HEI to fail. how hot is your engine running? how is your oil pressure? if your oil pressure is low or coolant is low/poor or you have blockage or hte thermostat is dying, these things will cause higher temps in the engine compartment and if your HEI gets too hot, it stops working. had this happen with one of my older engines. when i would get up in the 190-220 range sitting in traffic, HEI would give up the ghost. never foudn a way around it.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#11 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Yakima,WA.
Posts: 150
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replace your ignition switch. I had the exact same problem, blew up two mufflers before I found prblem. The back of the switch was separating from housing. Loss of power to everything.
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Mark 67 c20 custom camper 55 Olds 2dr hardtop 96 mustang 11 dodge nitro |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Memphis, Tn
Posts: 194
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I blew up a pair of mufflers also, but my problem was the tach wire was shorting against the the wire to the ignition at the cap. I would turn a corner, give it some gas, lost power and the backfire occurred when the wires separated. I put male/female connectors about 6 inches from the cap because it was so difficult to connect the wires to the cap because of the blind angle, and that was where the wires were shorting. I covered the connection with tubing to prevent this from happening again. Just my .02 worth. Good luck and keep on truckin'........Jerry
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'68 c-10 long wheelbase fleetside, been in family since new, originally 250 3 speed Now (389) 350 .060 over 3.75 stroke,Edelbrock Performer RPM 70cc heads and Intake 600 cfm Edelbrock,Small Comp Cams retro-roller cam and roller rockers,9:1 cr, headers, HEI,Old Air a/c, 72 power disc brakes w/stainless lines, 3.42 gear,T-56 6-speed, original paint(what's left of it). Dakota Digital Dash |
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Plymouth, MA
Posts: 891
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Didn't read through all the suggestions, but ensure you are not running the original ballister on the firewall with the HEI distributer. Points style ignition systems required it, your HEI does not. When they go bad you will get and loose power, plus it rduces the power to the distributer.
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1972 Blazer body...need to get a thread started for the rest of the story |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 1,397
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I wasn't able to check on it last night but I'm pretty sure that the HEI power is not the power from the points system.
The wiring on this truck leaves a lot to be desired. I already had one near-miss fire incident and had to rewire the front light harness. Thanks for the suggestions.
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#15 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Champaign, IL
Posts: 1,397
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Quote:
Seems like a possibility but I don't see how the electrical cut-out occurs. I've got some diagnosin' to do. Thanks for everyone's help!
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Baby Blue's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=652776 Project 68's Build Thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...17#post8442117 www.stonecolumnclassics.com Email: Josh@stonecolumnclassics.com |
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#16 |
Roadtrip!
![]() Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Grand Rapids MN
Posts: 13,737
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Went through the same problem on my 69 recently. Was converted to hei before i bought it. No rhyme or reason, it would just die when it wanted to. Always started up again. Put a new ign switch and key in and had no problems since.
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67 gmc custom lwb dakota truck. Sold...And bought back 69 swb 4x4 project (in progress) 70 c-10 lwb texas truck 70 4x4/BB/bkts/posi/tach(retired) 70 swb (wifes) 70 jimmy camper 71 K-5 factory 2wd 71 cheyenne 4x4/tach/posi/ plow rig 71 Cheyenne20 BB, buckets, tach, tilt, 4 speed 72 jimmy CST wyoming rig 72 jimmy Colorado rig 72 lifted texas 4x4 3/4 ton burb 65 fury conv. 383/auto 65 chrysler 300 "L" 413 auto |
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#17 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles
Posts: 698
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Had the same problem with my '67. I finally found out that the spot in the fuse box I was using (ignition unfused 12v) had a bad conection on the back of the fuse box. I had taken off the body plug and cleaned that, as it had a lot of green corrosion in it, still no go. Then I pulled the fuse box apart, so you could see the part behind the fuses and there was rust galor! After an hour with a wire brush and WD-40, and a new female spade terminal, it is now giving me 12 volts all the time. i also now get a full 12v to my HEI. It is worth a look anyway.
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Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold |
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