crossmember swap

[71/454]

I'm sure this one has been done a million times, but I have looked and can't seem to find a definitive answer, could anyone please help me I don't want to assemble a newly painted truck and have it unable to be alligned. I have a 71 c10 2wd with 73-87 lowered spindles a 73-87 cross link pitman, idler arm, and tie rods, and 73-87 upper ball joint in the 71 a-frame and a stock ball joint in the 71 lower a-frame. Everything bolts together and works but I have not had it alligned, other than a tape measure(drives not bad actually). I am starting dissasembly to put the truck into paint and have found the steel bushings in the a-frames to be completely worn out. I have a set of upper and lower a-frames from 73-87 with rubber bushing and wish to install them. Everything I find has talk of swapping the entire crossmember, is this nescessary to get a proper allignment? Or can I just swap all the parts. I looked quick but the croosmembers look to be the same. Any and all help is appreciated thanks.

[crazy longhorn]

I think you can swap the later arms onto your crossmember......that IS NOT a definative answer tho! I am running the same setup you currently have (73+ spindles & linkage, with the stock 69 crossmember & a a rms). IMO, the early steel bushed arms are the best way to go(no flex). Are your arms worn from the bushings being really bad? just for thought..... it will be a little more expense to replace the shafts & bushings, but i have seen the steel bushings last 1/4 million miles (if greased now & then).... L

[71/454]

Yours does line up though? As in you have had a proffessional allignment? A friend of mine told me all this will have trouble alligning, the reason for my questions now. thanks

[71/454]

Any help? Should I change the crossmember?

[crazy longhorn]

My truck hasnt been into the shop for alignment, I just gave her a "backyard alignment" (rough bubble check on the camber, & set the toe with a tape). it drives good, & after 10,000 mi I dont see any odd tire wear. I dont think a shop alignment wound be an issue......the reason that guys are swapping the complete crossmember is , that way they dont have to guess what parts fit together. You have already got the pcs to fit/work...... L

[CJJ67]

I have a '67 C10 1/2 ton that is my daily driver (126 miles each day) and I only know what I did and I didn't have any problems getting the alignment done. I left my crossmember in, changed the upper and lower control arms, ball joints and spindles, pitman arm, tie rods and linkages from a '83 C10. She now rides sweet and straight. But I do agree with "crazy longhorn", it's a lot easier if you can change everything as a unit instead of mixing and matching. Good luck.

[71/454]

Thanks guys that puts my fears to rest

[Brad]

You absolutely DO NOT have to swap the crossmember itself. I have the entire fe from a 77 sans the actual crossmember. However, I kinda wish I had swapped the crossmember also only because it uses thicker u bolts to hold the control arms on, but that's a very minor cosmetic thing.

[CJJ67]

brad, you are correct that it does give you the chance to use the thicker "u" bolts...all i did was drill the four holes larger and problem solved. I am by far no genius, I get all my info from these extremely experienced group of experts.

[BubbaGreen]

GM still sells the front crossmember U-bolts for the lower A-Arm. My originals were 1/2" and the replacements were 9/16" They fit into the stock crossmember without any drilling required. I also purchased machine grade flat washers (really thick) and GR-8 compression nuts.