IFS Spring Problem

[Rick.Coleman]

I bolted my front suspension components to my TCI IFS in my 52 chevy. No matter what I do I can not get the springs to set correctly in the lower control arm. Seems like the springs are to long, forcing the control arms down at about a 45-degree angle. The engine/trans is in and I've bounced it but it still doesn't set right. I thought the control arms should be somewhat level and have heard of folks cutting the new springs to get the ride height correct. I really don't want to do this unless I have to. The height seems to be higher than I expected. Any one else ran in to this problem?

3100 special. I been trying to follow along and do mine about the same time as you, but have come to the conclusion that I just can't keep up.

[3100 special]

Don't cut them!!!
First of all, it is a PITA to get them on. I did mine without a spring compression tool (which I may still have to get one) to get mine in. I got my nuts on my upper A-arm but, it's not cinched down far enough to get the cotter pins in. Also, I can't attach my lower shock mounting points yet. This is mainly due to the weight of the engine not being in the vehicle.
I just set my spring in the top cap and had my jack placed under the lower A-arm and jacked it up...SLOWLY. Since the strength of the spring was lifting my whole truck I was re-adjusting 4 jack stands to make sure if anything slipped, the jacks would catch the truck short of falling.
I can't stress enough...work safe.
Now after saying all of that, the spring on the passenger's side kept twisting and slipping every time I started jacking the arm up. What I ended up "rigging" was:
1. Setting the spring in the upper hat
2. Positioning the lower part of the spring where the end of the spring would be in the proper "niche"
3. Run a cinching tie down strap through one of the loops of the spring towards the cab.
4. Putting the other end of the strap around the passenger’s running board support.
5. Drawing it up until I had it snug.
6. As I’d slowly jack up the A-arm, I’d increase the pressure on the strap as necessary to keep the spring in place.
7. Once I sensed that “magic spot”, I gave the spring a slight tap with the rubber mallet.
8. She clicked right in place and I started breathing again…

If I had it to do over, I’d quit being so tight and rent a spring compression tool!
In fact, when I do my rear, I’ll rent one and get the front finished.

Finally, the manufacturer says that there's going to be some settling so…don’t cut yet! Better she how she rides after a couple of hundred miles.

Hope this helps!

On keeping up, I'm trying to spent the money that got alloted before the wife changes her mind or something comes up. I'm fixin' to start a massive ordering campaign to make sure nothing changes getting this done!

[PHAT 53]

Rick

3100s’is right, don’t cut the springs yet. When I did mine I picked up a cheap set of spring compressors from Harbor Freight. They worked ok I did see some bending in the large threaded screw shaft on the spring compressor but it worked. When I finished I had about the same stance as 3100 does now without an engine and transmission. With the 350 /350 combo in the lower arms set 10 to 12 degrees from horizontal.
I don’t understand why yours would be at 45 degrees with your engine and transmission in.
My questions would be:
Do you have the bottom of the springs in the lower A arm notch like 3100 described?
Did you order your IFS with heaver springs?

From what I read before going with a Mustang II IFS the stock springs will hold 850 pounds.
Also it takes about 1500 miles of driving to get them to settle.
Again don't cut the springs! If you look into the formula for figuring spring rate and ride effect the amount of spring coils is the major determining factor in the ride and handling. The more coil you take away from an already set spring rate the harder your ride will be.

[Rick.Coleman]

I have a spring compressor and can get them compressed; I just can't get it to set in the niche. When I get it close, and jack the front it pulls out. I didn't think cutting them was the answer, but have heard some folks having to cut them to get the right stance. Guess I will have to keep trying. Will be out of town the rest of the week so maybe I can get back on it this weekend.

[3100 special]

The first one I did went great. The second one just wouldn't go into the niche...it kept fighting me.
Hang in there, you'll get it.

[solidaxel]

There are a number of coil springs for these IFS, and I found out that using the lighter ones worked better for me. I think they were the smallest wire gauge I could find.

[Rick.Coleman]

Finally got it figured out today. Took me several hours to get one side in then the other side went fine. Unfortunately I will eventually have to take it all back out to sand blast and paint the frame. That is a ways down the road, but it is sure good to get it in.

[3100 special]

That's great! Told you that you'd get it!

[PHAT 53]

They are mothers but the ride should be worth it.

[Phat]

Maybe i dont under stand...What did you have problems with? I have never had a problem intstalling them.(done more that 50) You using stock type a-frames maybe? Yep never cut the spring till the whole truck is finished. As a matter of fact we dont install the springs at all till the project is finshed. We use treaded rod or square tubing in place of a spring too set ride height during the build. That way you can check your tire and ride height combo.........but after a few weeks of the springs settling you most likly are gonna be cutting them.1/4 of a coil at a time. The more you cut off the higher the rate goes on the spring.