fuel cell/frame help

[shifty]

Just curious. This is what I'm looking at on my frame. I'm going to need to measure up for a fuel cell. I think I'm going to go with one to mount between the rails. I guess I'm going with a vented cell with an in-tank pump. Is there any reason why I wouldn't want to use this setup? Are there any pros or cons to using an in-tank versus external fuel pump? Is it necessary to use a vented tank with the LS1? I don't plan on racing and probably won't exceed a 500HP buildup on my engine if this helps.

Likewise, I notice three things when I unbolted the wood on my bed:

1) The PO was an idiot and didn't get the right sized planks - instead he went with one size and re-drilled the crossbars. Looks like I'm buying new wood and bolts at minimum.

2) The crossmember marked with green below is not "sqaure" in the frame. Is that normal? It's at a slight angle, only a couple degrees diff't.

3) I have this small cross brace in the back (See red text below) and I want to remove it. Anyone know why it's there and what the importance of it is? If I remove it, will I need to box anything in?

Will the cross brace for the wood bed cause a problem with a between-the-rails fuel cell?

Does anyone have contact information for fuelcellguy?

Thanks for any and all advice. I'm going to try and get the fuel system started on the truck this weekend. I want to have it fired up and driving by spring.

[FuelCellGuy]

Here I am.... The cross brace for you bed floor is not in the way. The "angled" crossmember can stay but the rearmost crossmember must be reomved or moved back. The in-tank pump would be better IMO. The in-tank fuel pump assemblies that Tanks, Inc. makes is set up with a vent, supply and return line. I do believe in order to run a return line on the LS1 you will have to get the fuel rail assembly that Street and Performance sells. It has a return on the fuel rail. If you have any other question, drop me a line. Later, Mark

[shifty]

I think the stock 'vette fuel rails support the return line. I can't tell you to be honest. It's something I'll need to look into. I've finally got things bolted up and I'm finding that the tranny xmember doesn't fit into stock holes so I got a lot of xmember work to be doing to get this up and going.

[shifty]

I got a question for you - why is it necessary to move the xmember instead of that light cross bar? Is it a size issue, or is there some other problem?

Thanks for the advice.

[FuelCellGuy]

The rear most crossmember CAN be left but a special shaped tank must be made to clear it and be able to get any reasonable capacity. The standard rectangular tank requires removal or relocation of the crossmember. It basically comes down to a price difference in the tanks. Oh, I recommended the in-tank pump because of pump longevity and sound. The in-tank pump I had for my LT-1 couldn't be heard. I have heard some frame mounted pumps and I just do not like the noise they make. Also, the in-tank pump stays much cooler being surrounded by fuel. I have a tank fabbed up with a pump in it, I'll snap some pics and post them in a while. Later, Mark

[shifty]

Thanks! I've been trying to hit the tanksinc.com site (Yogi tanks) but they have some error going on with the website (cold fusion related) so I can't shop around. I noticed that ECE also has a tank for this application. I'll hafta wait around for that to come up. Again, appreciate all your help, Mark. PS - I bumped into your truck *again* today when using Google - at the Stovebolt website. I saw that page a long long time ago and your profile(s) at other websites led me to this forum. I guess I owe you a thanks for that too

What'd you use for your fuel lines from the tank to engine?

[FuelCellGuy]

I would recommend 3/8" steel supply line and a 5/16" steel return line. You'll have to use the high dollar fuel injection hose at either end to connect to the engine and tank from the steel line. Let me know if you need anything else. Oh yea, that 68 SWB of mine is long gone. I sold it last May. I have dedicated my "spare" time to the 2WD Blazer. I will be posting some progess pics soon enough. I want to get the Blazer on the road so I can move onto the 68 Camaro. My 11 year old daughter THINKS this is going to be her first car, not likely until she proves her driving skills (or lack of). We'll see... Later, Mark

[RAWPWR7]

you can use a fuel tank from a 98-02 f-body(camaro/firebird) it will fit in the frame rails. someone on the board has done it i dont not recall who. also it has the fuel pump built in and could save you $$$$.

edit here is the thread:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=125646

[shifty]

Still curious to see pics of your cell and in-cell pump if you got em. If nothing else, just to see what other people have setup.

RAWPWR, I think there's a thread that's similar stickied to the top of this forum. I've seen a lot of people doing just that and the cost is low, I just like the look of the fuel cell better....

[FuelCellGuy]

Here's a few.

[lvscott]

what is the capacity on the fuel cell you have pictured here? and can you see it when the bed is on?

[FuelCellGuy]

Those are 16 gallon tank. When the bed is on, and using a bumper, the tank cannot be seen, using a roll pan, you can see one inch of the tank showing.

[shifty]

Do you have a wood bed or a steel bed? How does the mounting of the tank affect the crossbars you see in my picture above?

[FuelCellGuy]

It does not affect the cross bars. The tank is actually flush with the top of the frame rail. This leaves 3" for filler, fuel pump, sending unit, etc. I am building one for a wood bed truck now. The customer specified that the filler cap be positioned 9 1/2" from the center of the truck. This should make it end up in the middle of one of the bed boards.

[shifty]

nice...

i ordered ECE's tranny xmember today in hopes that it might line up with my frame rails - either way, it's a superior product to the stock AT crossmember. sucks i put all that work into refabbing the stock one! i'm going to talk to them and see if they can explain why their tanks are $800 and how that cost is justified. i have yet to see anyone else charging more than $300-400 for theirs.

how much would you charge to make a similar one in aluminum ~18 gals? if you prefer to keep the price off the thread, shoot me a PM. i have done several transactions w/other board members if you need a reference or five.

[68haywagon]

Ok...how about some back on topic That crossmember that is angled is supposed to be like that, it's so the panhard bar clears ( I think).

Thats all the input I have.

Mike