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Old 03-19-2002, 11:56 PM   #1
super72bb
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Post What to do with bolts?


I AM INTERESTED IN WHAT MOST GUYS DO WITH THE BODY BOLTS AND HARDWARE FOR THE FRONT CLIP, FOR RE-ASSEMBLY. I WOULD LIKE TO USE STAINLESS BOLTS BUT I CANT FIND THEM OEM STYLE. WHAT ABOUT CAD PLATING? INTERESTED TO SEE WHAT MOST GUYS HAVE DONE.

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Old 03-20-2002, 12:13 AM   #2
68C10
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You can get OEM style stainless from GMC Paul or Totally Stainless.
totallystainless.net

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1968 C10 SWB No Options but 40K original miles
1967 K20 LWB 283 4-speed
South Plainfield, NJ

[This message has been edited by 68C10 (edited March 19, 2002).]
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Old 03-20-2002, 12:50 AM   #3
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68C10, Are they the same shape / style as the OEM? If so that would be cool! Darren
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Old 03-20-2002, 01:21 AM   #4
O'l Buck
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not sure on this, maybe someone else can help, but I think I'd stay away from the stainless, does it have the same effect on steel as steel bolts do on alluminum?? dissimilar metals can cause corrosion and I'd be leary of rusting out my bolt holes.

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Old 03-20-2002, 12:05 PM   #5
JimKshortstep4x4
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We gathered up a box of fender, hood, and the other front end bolts, had them stripped and recoated with phosphate which is the way they were done originally.
This gave us enough to do several trucks and cars.

Jim


[This message has been edited by JimKshortstep4x4 (edited March 20, 2002).]
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Old 03-20-2002, 03:22 PM   #6
nosto
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I don't know if this is just a sales pitch for a company that doesn't like stainless, but here's an interesting bit of info....
[lnk]http://www.amkproducts.com/stainless_steel.htm[/lnk]

Geee...I hope I did that right, I've done picts before, but not links. Well, you get the idea anyway.

RickO
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Old 03-20-2002, 03:58 PM   #7
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You need to put at the begining and at the end.
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Old 03-20-2002, 05:30 PM   #8
JoetheMobster
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Hehehe, I was thinking this post was about doing a job, and then having left over nuts and bolts! Funny how that happens eh? Then you figure, what the hell, throw the bolts over your shoulder and into the neighbor's petunias. Later as you're driving along, a wheel falls off here, exhaust hits the road and sparks fly...etc.

Yeah, you've got to love it!

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Old 03-20-2002, 11:31 PM   #9
68C10
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Super72BB,
Totally Stainless has them plain, polished and black (look like original). They look OK to me but then I'm doing an "interprative restoration".
I think Paul's are the same but I'm not sure.

Also, I'm not aware of any galvanic action issues with stainless hardware and sheet metal. They are not recomended for high stress applications but they are great for body panels
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68C10
1968 C10 SWB No Options but 40K original miles
1967 K20 LWB 283 4-speed
South Plainfield, NJ

[This message has been edited by 68C10 (edited March 20, 2002).]
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Old 03-21-2002, 01:20 AM   #10
70 Jimmy
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Stainless will do fine with our trucks. Think of it as steel on steel, no biggy. Unless your talking stainless bolts in a stainless block (sheet metal doesn't count). It gauls very badly. The reason it's not recommended for high stress applications is the fact that they will stretch. Especially with heat.

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Old 03-22-2002, 07:30 AM   #11
tim m
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There is a company that is advertising in Chevy High Performance that has SS bolts with the Bow tie logo on them.
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Old 03-22-2002, 11:22 AM   #12
Fast68Chevy
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is it true that ss is stronger than grade 8 ? i saw that somewhere and cant remeber where, ss is stainless, IE it doesnt corrode, thats the whole purpose of that kind of steel, its used in surgical applications, countertops in homes and restaraunts, most alll silverware and food utensils, etc etc, its the cleanest for the most part...

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-71/C-10(thx teeitup and crews!)350 4+4/CH465(thx 71Chev, GMCPaul, and CPNE)longfleet bed(thnx meathead95)!still building it-
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paint is overrated
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[This message has been edited by Fast68Chevy (edited March 22, 2002).]
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