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#1 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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I am going to replace my column - everything from the stock steering wheel down to the rag joint connecting to the PS gearbox (will be for sale too!
![]() ![]() FTR, I don't want to use a van tilt. I want to go a little more "nu-skool" than that. I also don't want to spend $700 on it (just spent that getting my fuel situation taken care of). I'd love to see pics of aftermarket tilt or non-tilt columns if you have them - even if the application is from another late-model vehicle or whatever. EDIT: Nevermind, Bill helped me find the link below: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=181698 (post #4)
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 02-07-2006 at 03:46 PM. |
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#2 |
*************
![]() Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 17,846
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Re: Who had this column?!
Shifty, PickumUp had a column for sale a while back, but not sure if it is they one you are talking about.
Also, what did you do for your fuel "situation" tank, pump, lines? I'm getting ready to tackle that myself. Pictures would be appreciated. Rob
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Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: NB
Posts: 3,367
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Re: Who had this column?!
Mine is a 80 Camaro tilt, I love it.
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1968 Chevy C10 307 3ott fleetside 1967 Chevy C/10 V8, 3spd, fleetside lwb.Sold 1967 Chev C/10 step, 383, M21. SOLD |
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#4 |
State of Confusion!
![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Gulfport, MS USA
Posts: 46,923
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Re: Who had this column?!
That was greaseMonkey. PM him bout it. He is quite, but normally around.
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Bill 1970 Chevy Custom/10 LWB Fleetside 2010 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner SR5 Double Cab - DD Member of Louisiana Classic Truck Club (LCTC) Bill's Gallery Life isn't tied with a bow, but it's still a gift. Live simply. Love generously. Care deeply. Speak kindly. Leave the rest to God! |
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#5 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: Who had this column?!
Thanks, Bill!
Hey Rob - re: the fuel situation, I'm going with an 18gal aluminum tank from Mark Fowler, AKA "FuelCellGuy". I'm using his 18gal tank with a Walbro in-tank pump (he also sells the 16gal). The tank is all aluminum, I'm having it coated with Line-X for rigidity's sake and noise dampening. The tank is fully baffled, comes with sending unit, supports internal or external pump. It mounts to the framerails similar to how the ECE tank does from what I gather, comes with the hardware and with all of the stuff (pump/tank/coating/hardware/sending unit) it is costing me at least 10% less than the steel ECE tank with no fuel pump. Below are some pictures of an example tank that he showed to me - I'll also drop some info on the procedure as he explained it to me - turnaround is less than a month. Figure someone else might find this info useful. Info from Mark: I do use the flange mount system (no straps -s) Fuel cell kit to include 18 gallon tank, sending unit, in-tank fuel pump assembly, filler tube and mounting hardware ... The tanks that I build are baffled, they are also welded inside and out with the exception of the "lid" or top plate. I put the tanks together in its entirety and Mig weld it together on the inside, then I'll put the lid on it and Tig it all up. I use .125 wall aluminum. I actually let the tank "pickle" if you will, for a couple of days. By this I mean, after the tank is welded, I let it cool and don't drill any holes in the tank. After two or three days, I will begin to install the components. When I drill the first hole, if the tank has no leaks, I will hear a vacuum release when the hole first penetrates the tank. The air in the tank is super hot when the welding takes place, then as the tank cools, the air inside contracts, therfore creating a vacuum. No vacuum= leak. Good vacuum= no leak. When I do fuel injection pumps I recommend using an in-tank pump. With the pump in the tank, the pump stays cool and last much longer than one that is mounted on the frame rail. Also, the internal pump is extremely quiet. The tanks include sending unit, filler neck or filler assembly, and mounting hardware. The tanks for fuel injection are ready to go, I install the pump before it leaves the shop. The ECE tank is very nice ... I do recommend welding in a beefy crossmember at the rear of the frame no matter what tank is used. With the standard tank, the rearmost crossmember must be moved anyway. This crossmember could be moved back in all reality, thats is what I did on my truck. I prefer PayPal but will take a money order/cashiers check. Turn-around time is generally three-four weeks. (You decide) Where, eventually, will your filler be located ... I just need to iron out a location for it. All of the tanks that I have sold have the filler at the rear drivers corner like the attached picture shows. I have plenty to do before I get that far. The fuel pump is a Tanks, Inc. pump assembly. It uses a Walbro pump ... My normal procedure is tank payment in full The fuel pump assembly has a vent on it already. It aids in filling the tank. The only two location I can put the filler at is the front or rear of the tank. There is a bed crossmember in the center of the tank. That will be the last step I do, so you have some time to think about it. (Need answers for) A few last questions ... are you running: coil spring suspension, filler tube or bed fill, bumper or roll pan, and steel or wood floor? I am going to send you some pics of the tank I put together (below) so that you can see the amount of baffling and bracing I put into the tank. The pictures speak for themselves. I have heard nothing but rave reviews about his stuff, so I'm buying with confidence. I'll let you know how it goes...
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. Last edited by shifty; 02-07-2006 at 02:32 PM. |
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#6 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: Who had this column?!
Thanks to bill, I found the thread/post where people were discussing columns and found the pictures of what I wanted to do. They're here:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=181698 Post #4.
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#7 |
'70 GMC C-25 LWB
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Binghamton, N.Y.
Posts: 273
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Re: Who had this column?!
Thanks for posting the link shifty.
(D)
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1970 GMC C-25 LWB (middle of frame up) 5-7 drop with 3in drop spindles, flip kit with blocks and still keeping the 3/4 ton. Shaved drip rails and marker lights, rear roll pan, cowl induction hood. 1987 Camaro z28 350, vortec 305 heads. 10:1 comp, t5 trans. Street terrrorizer. 1988 Monte Carlo (Super Stock ashpalt race car) My Truck |
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#8 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Pace, FL
Posts: 2,155
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Re: Who had this column?!
Pm'ed you shifty.
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1942 Master Deluxe 1969 C/10 1985 Blazer CUCV 1987 Jimmy 2004 Tahoe 2005 Silverado 1500 2005 Silverado 3500 |
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