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Old 02-24-2006, 01:48 PM   #1
CochinoFilipino
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C20 vs. C10

I found 1969 C20 in my area that I’m interested in. I don't know jack about Chevy trucks so I’m looking to gain some info before looking at it and making an offer.

I’d prefer a shortbed C10 but I think this C20 is looking pretty good (ad below). And I figure that at $3K I can’t loose much if I decide to sell it later and get a C10.

Is there a big downside to using a C20 for a daily driver ( I don’t drive a lot) as opposed to a C10?

What I already know is that C20's are 3/4 ton and will have a heavier axle and stiffer springs and that ALL C20 are LWB longbeds. And C10 are 1/2 ton and can come with long or short beds.

What are other differences between the two?

Thanks,

The ad:
1969 CHEVY 3/4 TON,FACTORY A/C.80K ON CRATE 350,20K ON TH400,DANA 60 WITH 3.23 GEARS,NO RUST ANYWHERE.REBUILT FRONT SUSPENSION,POWER FRONT DISC BRAKES,NEW CALIPERS,ROTORS,MASTER CYLINDER AND BOOSTER,POLISHED ALUMINUM WHEELS OFF A 2002 CHEVY,NEW WHEEL STUDS,NEW BRIDGESTONE TIRES(MOUNTED ON 2002 CHROME CHEVY WHEELS) NEW WIRING HARNESS,VERY RELIABLE EVERY DAY DRIVER,READY FOR PAINT.WILLING TO TRADE FOR UTILITY WORK TRUCK
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Old 02-24-2006, 02:05 PM   #2
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Re: C20 vs. C10

Until I hit the "ready for paint" part I was on board with you. It would have to be SUPER nice for me to spend $3,000 on that when it still needs paint. It does sound like there is a ton of work done, so it could be worth it, but without looking at it I think it's a bit steep.

I believe you hit all of the differences.
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Old 02-24-2006, 02:06 PM   #3
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Re: C20 vs. C10

sounds like a good driver. If you are just doing that then your fine. If your trying to upgrade it into a pro touring/ street truck you should find a 10 as you will want to do a 5 lug swap and lowring kits, brake and handeling upgrades, wheels and such are all more plentlyfull in c-10 form,you just hauling around extra weight in a 20 if you dont use it as a "truck"
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Old 02-24-2006, 02:29 PM   #4
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Re: C20 vs. C10

I have a long list of house projects. I've been putting lumber and stuff on the rack of my Cherokee. And the inside gets dirty with stuff. I don't need a 3/4 ton longbed, but do need a truck.

And it needs to double as a nice DD. I am working on my 67 Mustang right now, So I want a truck that doesn't need any work for the time being. And yes, I could see paint, lowering and some decent rims in the future.

My buddy has a nice large garage and everything to Paint. If I can find a nice solid straight body I thought I'd try my hand at painting this summer.

Are you saying that the C20 is not 5-lug? What is it, 6 or 8?

Last edited by CochinoFilipino; 02-24-2006 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 02-24-2006, 02:32 PM   #5
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Re: C20 vs. C10

Doesn't sound bad. The commetn about zero rust always boosts the value (if it's true)!

I would have to say it depends on the options it has, how original it is (or if it's been rigged at all) and just how "ready" the body is for paint.

Options like a/c, p/s, p/b, tilt, sliding rear window, etc. can really add up and raise the value, especially if the buyer wants those options.
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Old 02-24-2006, 02:37 PM   #6
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Re: C20 vs. C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrC1
Doesn't sound bad. The commetn about zero rust always boosts the value (if it's true)!

I would have to say it depends on the options it has, how original it is (or if it's been rigged at all) and just how "ready" the body is for paint.

Options like a/c, p/s, p/b, tilt, sliding rear window, etc. can really add up and raise the value, especially if the buyer wants those options.
I definitely want Power disc brakes. That's one thing that stood out to me. Especially since most of the components are new. I know that a conversion can add up with all the little things that are needed.

And Power steering is big plus with me.
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Old 02-24-2006, 02:34 PM   #7
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Re: C20 vs. C10

More questions:

Is the Dana 60 rear going to effect MPG alot as opposed to a C10 with something lighter?

Is the TH400 much less efficient than the TH350?

Are the driveshafts the same?

Thanks again,
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Old 02-24-2006, 03:08 PM   #8
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Re: C20 vs. C10

the dana 60 rear won't hurt you....its a heavy duty axle, what hurts mpg is the low gears people often put in there....for towing purposes....the ad states that the gearing in the rear is 3.23....actually kinda high....many people on here state that they switched to a 3.08 rear from a 3.73 and it hurt both drivability and mpg......but you are still better off than with 4.11 or 4.56.
As for the transmission, the TH400 is the same 3 spd automatic transmission essentially....just very heavy duty....both the th350 and th400 are hydro-matic transmissions which means they are stand alone units (no computer) and the top gear is 1:1, no overdrive.
as for daily driver status.....nothing is cooler than a classic.
the wheels will be 8 lug, you will have to swap the front end from a c10, and the rear dana 60 for likely a 12 bolt GM axle....they are plentiful, and relatively cheap.
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Old 02-24-2006, 03:18 PM   #9
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Re: C20 vs. C10

It's a Camper Special. What does this mean besides that it has goofy looking mirrors?
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Old 02-24-2006, 03:21 PM   #10
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Re: C20 vs. C10

I believe the camper special had goofy mirrors, saddle tanks (for a total of 3?), and helper springs?
Honestly, with the way the ad reads, anything distinctively camper special has likely been replaced....so you are looking at a basic c20
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Old 02-24-2006, 06:27 PM   #11
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Re: C20 vs. C10

So does the D60 (more unsprung weight) and stiff springs make for a bad ride?

Here are pics from the ad:



Also going to check this one out tomorrow.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1


I can't seem to find a good SWB C10. But then again I've been looking for just a few days.
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Old 02-24-2006, 09:48 PM   #12
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Re: C20 vs. C10

if its $3K get the truck it looks good. I bought my 1970 chevy custom, long bed, 6 lugs, p/b, p/s, th350,350CI, i got mine for 2300 and the paint was bad and it also had some rust. but then i a got a short bed chassi for $600 with title and it has disk brakes and leaf springs on the rear, the cab came with it and the short bed, so of my original truck am just using the original title because its on my name, and the engine and the th350. but thet truck on the picture looks good trust me.
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:59 AM   #13
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Re: C20 vs. C10

That`70 seems like a good deal.I drove a C/20,they ride fine.They`re not a car,though.Although not a part of the CustomCamper pkg,it prolly has leaf springs out back,a bit stiffer than coils.With the CustomCamper you got bigger radiator and upgraded springs and sway bar,pretty much.The nameplates are even an option.Call MAACO and it`ll be real purdy that color.
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Old 02-25-2006, 09:29 PM   #14
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Re: C20 vs. C10

I drove the ebay C20 today. It rides nice and turns heads with the side dump exhaust. It had coils out back.

Haven't heard back from the guy with the 69 I know he was using it as a driver. I'll call him tomorrow after I look at a SWB C10 I got lead on.
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Old 02-25-2006, 11:46 PM   #15
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Re: C20 vs. C10

I think the camper special added heavier rear leaf springs and maybe camper wiring (or this may be an option). My camper special has sport mirrors. I have 2 c20's (c2500 GMC actually). They both ride better than the K10 (4x4 longbed) I had and the 67 short stepside I had. My k10 I think rode better than my stock coil springed c10 stepside until I put a 4 " lift on my 4x4. I actually swapped to the 4" soft ride the second time with 33" tires but I liked it better stock height. My c20 with dana 60 410 gears gets the same or better gas mileage than the k10 with 3:08 or c10 stepside with a newly rebuilt 250 six cylinder with a 3 spd stickshift. In other words, they all get lousy gas mileage. The 396 big block will probably be worse.

If I needed a c20, I'd pay the $3000 for that truck. Trucks in Ca. seem to sell higher than elswhere which baffles me because rustfree parts are a lot cheaper here. I have seen it posted here several times where someone from the east would say they wouldn't pay more than $2500 for a truck that would get $3500-$4000 easily in CA, but would pay $1200 for a rustfree cab, $800 for a longbed, $200 for fenders, doors and core supports I guess wrecking yards are correct when they say "it is worth more in parts".

67-72 C20's were real easy to sell here because of people who use them for construction, landscaping, towing and utility vehicles and because they are smog exempt. The 71-72 are better because of factory disc brakes. That 69 is even better because the front end has been newly upgraded. Since new truck prices have come down in price, with better gas mileage, older trucks have been getting harder to sell.

I know where a 70 longbed 1/2t is with brand new black paint, nothing special and it still has drum brakes in front, no AC and he is asking $6000. I don't think he'll get what he's asking, but who knows.
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Last edited by greenhorn male; 02-25-2006 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 02-26-2006, 02:26 AM   #16
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Re: C20 vs. C10

Buy the c20 , you'll love it . And i'm a c10 short box guy . I had a blue / white 68 c20 that everyone seemed to love , everytime i drove it someone would stop me and want to talk about the truck , probably cuz there are so many nice 1/2 tons not so many nice bigger trucks. I got good money for that truck , it sold quickly ( went to canada). Buy it , drive it , watch for a c10.
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