ball joints

[chevyman06]

Can anyone give me some pointers/instructions on how to remove/ replace the upper and lower ball joints on a 77 3/4ton 4x4. It is a dana 44 front end. I have all the tools required to perform this at school, but our shop teacher only knows how to keep everybody alive. If somebody could give me some tips or complete instructions on what needs to come off in what order and what parts will most likely need to be replaced would be greatly appreciated. Ive done brake work before but i havent gotten this far into the truck. It used to be a full time front axle until i converted it to lockouts. any help is greatly appreciated. thanx in advance.

[LONGHAIR]

This is a very complicated job ..........lots of steps. It's not brain surgery but there is a lot involved. First it takes a special socket to get the wheel bearing nuts/rotor off of the spindle. Then comes removing the spindle itself. This can be an extra special chore, especially if it has never been off before. It can be done with a soft hammer (brass/lead) but the best way is with a special adapter that threads onto the spindle and to a slide-hammer. It can still be very tough. After that, you pull out the axle and you are pretty open to removing the knuckle. Pop the tie-rod and loosen the nuts on the ball-joints. The big hammer comes into play again. With some downward pressure (prybar) against the knuckle hit the sides of the housing where the tapered shafts go through until the knuckle pops loose. Remember to leave at least one nut on by a few threads so it doesn't fall completely apart. Now the the knuckle is separated from the truck you need a press to remove/reinstall the new ball-joints.

When you are ready to put it back together you need another special socket. This one is a 4 prong socket that adjusts the upper taper sleeve. You back the sleeve off a few turns and then tighten the lower ball-joint first. Then torque down the upper taper sleeve. After that, you tighten the upper ball-joint. Re-install everything else pretty much in reverse of removal.

While you have it apart, it is a very good idea to replace the axle-joint. The original joints are not greasable and they get rusty and stiff. There are newer versions that have grease fittings. Clean-up and inspect the wheel bearings for wear and replace if necessary. Install a new inner wheel bearing seal, pack the bearings with grease and put the hub back together.

It's not impossible, but it is a lot of work for the inexperienced, especially considering that this is a "glossed-over" version. It assumes that you can figure out some of it by giving you the bigger steps.
All in all it requires A minimum of 2 special tools (and you would be better off with the 3rd) and access to a press and some time and mechanical knowledge.....it sure would help if you had someone to work with you on this. If not it may be to your advantage to pay someone to do this job for you. It is pretty hard to justify buying these tools for a one-time use............unless you plan on owning several of these trucks, or working on them for your friends.

[4x4Poet]

The 4-prong socket Longhair mentioned that facilitates removal of the upper ball joint's tapered sleeve is a "Dana 44 ball joint socket"; NAPA NCP 278-2030. ~$17.

The upper tapered sleeve must be replaced with any installation of new ball joints since the sleeve experiences wear. Mate new sleeve with new ball joint. New upper ball joints come with new taper sleeves.

[LONGHAIR]

Not that I wouldn't replace it, if it came with the joint..........but there is no way that the taper gets any wear. That is a non-moving connection. (No other ball-joint type taper is removable...ie lower or tie-rod) The reason that is even there (movable) is to adjust for any machining irregularities between the housing and knuckle. That is why you tighten the lower joint first and torque the taper down to it.

[Erl]

Dana/Spicer has a web site where you can download the Spicer 44 service manual (50 pages). Some pictures are hard to see, but it is a step by step procedure. I did this job last weekend and as mentioned it is not easy. I had to use a torch to get the U-joints out and to remove the top ball joint. After 30 years somethings do not want to come a part.

[chevyman06]

Thanx to everybody who posted. I did print off a copy of that dana 44 manual and I am goin to attack it as soon as we get my buddies truck out of the shop and to the paint shop. I looked at our tool supply and I have everything I need. thanx again.

[HeavyK20]

I just did this, here are some notes that I made on installation. I gave up trying to use a ball joint press , the press fit is too tight. I ended up using a hydraulinc press and had good luck.

The toruque specs were included with the new ball joints. Other manufactures may be different.

1. Use Moog ball joints. They are the only manufacturer that has a grease fitting that is accessible on the upper ball joint. (Suggestion from CUSTOM/10)
2. Install the lower ball joint first pressing through the upper ball joint hole.
3. Install the upper ball joint second.
4. Use a narrow press plate through the axle hole to support the casting when installing the upper ball joint.
5. Install the steering assembly onto the axle.
6. Install the lower ball joint lock nut.
7. Install the upper ball joint tapered sleeve but leave it loose until the lower ball joint has been tightened.
8. Torque the lower ball joint to 110 ft-lbs.
9. Torque the upper ball joint tapered sleeve to 50 ft-lbs.
10. Torque the upper ball joint castle nut to 100 ft-lbs.
11. Continue to tighten the upper ball joint castle nut until the cotter pin hole lines up.
12. Install cotter pin.

[4x4Poet]

Good stuff, Heavy.

[HeavyK20]

I should add that even though I didn't use the ball joint press, I did use the tooling from the kit. It does help to have the right diameter sleeves/cups when installing the new ball joints.