Progress pics - air system, not far...yet

[71swb4x4]

Here are pictures of my progress so far. I only get a couple hours a week, so it will be
a while before this thing is driving again. I am hoping by the end of May, we'll see if that really happens.
Anyway I have two tanks, a two gallon up front and a three gallon in the rear. The tanks will be tied together with a 1/2 line. Up front the valves are mounted to the tank. In the rear they will be mounted to the rear crossmember.
I am using Parker DOT compression fittings. I read a lot about the Parker Pushloks and the compression and decided to go with these. They are spendy, so far I have $280 into them. I bought them at www.hoseandfittings.com.
I bought my valves, plates, and guages from *****************. I am going with Slam Specialties bags, the RS72's. I have a York compressor that will be supplying the air.

The first picture is the front tank and valves. They are mounted behind the bumper. The top middle fitting on the tank is the supply, the one right of that is the blowoff valve, and the one to the left is the guage line.

The second picture is the water seperator and switch. There is also a coupler so I can run an air tool if needed, and it will also serve as the emergency fill. The third picture shows the emergency fill hooked up.

The fourth picture is one of the rear valves set up on it's mounting plate. The fifth picture is another angle of the same set-up.

[71swb4x4]

The first and second pictures on this post is a shot of where I am going to mount the rear valves.

The third and fourth pictures are the rear tank.

The fifth picture is the guages and switches. There will be one more switch on this panel which will be the power for the compressor clutch.

[Zumo]

Looking good.

[hotrodhomi]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

The first and second pictures on this post is a shot of where I am going to mount the rear valves.

The third and fourth pictures are the rear tank.

The fifth picture is the guages and switches. There will be one more switch on this panel which will be the power for the compressor clutch.

I know you said you were adding a 6th switch, but what is the 5th one for?

[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

I know you said you were adding a 6th switch, but what is the 5th one for?

The fifth will control all of the valves at once. I am not sure how it will work, I doubt they will all lift equally, but I am pretty sure I can get them all to dump equally. If they don't dump at the same rate I will add silencers and adjust them so they do. I don't plan to raise and lower it much, but I figured since I am starting from scratch I may as well set it up to work this way now. It will be easier to do it now then set it up later.

[hotrodhomi]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

The fifth will control all of the valves at once. I am not sure how it will work, I doubt they will all lift equally, but I am pretty sure I can get them all to dump equally. If they don't dump at the same rate I will add silencers and adjust them so they do. I don't plan to raise and lower it much, but I figured since I am starting from scratch I may as well set it up to work this way now. It will be easier to do it now then set it up later.

So its like a pancake switch. Good idea, lowriders with juice have been doing it for years. let us know how it works with air.

[darcane]

Originally Posted by hotrodhomi

So its like a pancake switch. Good idea, lowriders with juice have been doing it for years. let us know how it works with air.

I did the same in my truck. The "kit" I bought included one of those boxes with ten switches that has all sorts of functions that I have no use for. I stole some switches out of it to use in my truck and figured having one switch for all four corners would be nice. It is, but it's not perfect. I raise it with the main switch until the rears are about right, then fine tune with the other four switches. Then I can lower it with the main switch, the front lowers a bit faster but it's pretty much flat on the way down.

[jay-dawg]

That's a different place for that air tank...never thought of that one. Looking good.

Jay

[darcane]

I like where you put the front valves, I would have never thought of that. I may have to move mine eventually...

Is the tank right behind the rear wheel? That's where I put mine and I think it works well. It's out of the way for the most part and I end up keeping everything out of the bed.

Looking good!

[XXL]

Originally Posted by darcane

I like where you put the front valves...

I think I like that location as well. I'd hate to run into the back of someone and, in addition to wrecking someone else's car and my bumper/grille, also whacking a couple hundred dollars worth of valves. But we're not supposed to do that kind of thing in the first place

[67Fleet]

Originally Posted by XXL

I think I like that location as well. I'd hate to run into the back of someone and, in addition to wrecking someone else's car and my bumper/grille, also whacking a couple hundred dollars worth of valves. But we're not supposed to do that kind of thing in the first place

That's why it's called an "accident". You can't go through life without taking risks. You're not going to trailer your nice freshly painted blue truck around are you? HELL NO!! Go for it!!
Besides, that's what insurance is for....

[XXL]

Originally Posted by 67Fleet

HELL NO!! Go for it!!
Besides, that's what insurance is for....

Agreed.

Though I still cringe when I recall a wreck about 18 years ago... I was exiting from Loop 12 to 183 West near Texas Stadium (those of you who know the area, you know what a mess that whole interchange is). Well, I was stuck in traffic down in the valley that exit ramp has, and I got tagged from behind by a Jeep that wasn't paying attention. As he hit 4WD and drove up the grass hill to make it a full hit-and-run, I was thinking about the roughly $15K in stereo that was in the bed of my truck that was now shaped like an accordion. I had one of a kind amps mounted across the tailgate, and facing them was a rack of RANE studio gear and more amps. I was sad. State Farm was more sad.

[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by XXL

I'd hate to run into the back of someone and, in addition to wrecking someone else's car and my bumper/grille, also whacking a couple hundred dollars worth of valves.

I had the same thoughts on the front valve location, but it was really the best spot I could come up with. It is still a couple inches back from the bumper. I would have to tag someone very hard, especially considering the fact that there aren't many rear bumpers that will be at the same height as my front bumper.

[71swb4x4]

Darcane, the tank is behind and to the side of the rear tire. It's next to the frame. Since this is on my Jimmy I am trying to keep everything out of the bed area.

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Looking good..

[smbrouss70]

Where is your switch/gauge panel going to go? Making a console or something?

[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

Where is your switch/gauge panel going to go? Making a console or something?

I think I am going to put it insuide the factory console. I am trying to keep a failry stock look, and with the stock interior I can't figure out a way to install it without it looking out of place.

[71swb4x4]

Well I have made a little more progress, still a long way to go. Here are the lines that I have run. I put conduit over the lines to make gradual bends and whenever I wanted to protect the line.

[1LoC10]

looking real good.... as for teh gauges, on my last truck i wantedthe interior stock also.... i just had a piece of aluminum cut and mounted a hinge on it, i had it under the dash so when pushed back it would face straight to the ground and you couldnt see it... when you drive just grab it and pull it down so you can use it...... pretty simple and it worked for what i wanted

[68C15]

any pics of the bags mounts? or do we/I have to wait till the 20th?

[71swb4x4]

It was a long weekend. These rear bags were a major PITA. The bolt holes are 2 3/4" apart so there isn't much room to work. I had to sut some "access" holes in the floor and go in from the top to put the bolts in. If this would have been a pickup I would have pulled the bed. Since the PO cut a huge hole in the floor for the fuel cell I figured I would fix these two holes when I fix the big hole. The rear bags are in. I have to finish running the lines to them, but everything is ready so that should only take 30 - 45 minutes. I still have to get shock relocators and a super track bar, maybe I will order those next week. Next week I will run the lines to the rear bags, but that's probably all I will get done. The next project will be the front bags. The major problem that I see there is cutting the hole for the bulkhead that will go through the crossmember. If it gives me toubles I will pull the motor to give myself more room to work

[68C15]

you need to drill large holes for hoses? if you have a compressor in the shop now I can bring my 1/2" drill with hole saw kit. BTW, if ya pull the engine I wont be able to tune the carb. I'm sure we can find a way to run hoses.

[71swb4x4]

Originally Posted by 68C15

you need to drill large holes for hoses? if you have a compressor in the shop now I can bring my 1/2" drill with hole saw kit. BTW, if ya pull the engine I wont be able to tune the carb. I'm sure we can find a way to run hoses.

If I pull the motor it won't be until after that weekend, I hope I won't have to though. I do need to drill a large hole, but no compressor yet.

[perrosinpata@aol.com]

Thanks for the pix.How do you plumb the valves?

[71swb4x4]

The front valves are attached directly to the tank with the fitting that will supply their air. The outside fittings that you see on those valves will go to the front bags.
The rear valves have 1/2" air line going to them, and they are now plumbed to the bags as well, with 1/2" line going to the bags. The larger fittings that are on the inside of the plates on the rear valves in the pictures are now on the outside of the plates. Everything for the rear bags is now installed. Now I have to get the front bags installed and then run the lines from the valves to them. Then it's time to hook up the gauges, finish the wiring, and see what doesn't work and what leaks