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04-19-2006, 10:07 PM | #1 |
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Location: Storm Lake, Ia
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Turn my Crank or not
Was going to rebuild an engine and just getting started.1st one!
Stopped at the machine shop today to get prices for machine work. Price to turn my crank is $95.00 and then $45.00 if I want it polished. $35.00 to steam and check block and another $113.00 to bore if needed Stopped at the auto parts store next and they will sell me a rebuilt crank with rod and main bearings for 82.99 (plus&Minus) $40 for core. Or Northern Auto parts sells rebuilt crank for 79.99 (plus minus) 51.75 core Never rebuilt an engine so not even sure my crank is bad so kind of stumped on which way to go. Not a motor head but figured since I already have the 350 in the garage I would give it a try.Already have some 882 heads I got that are all ready to go. Also have an old 305 that I might be able to use the crank out of as extra for core so I can keep my original 350 crank. Are they close to the same? Which way would you motor heads go? I just want a stock rebuild with nothing at all fancy just reliable!
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04-19-2006, 11:48 PM | #2 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
$95 seems a bit high. The 'rebuilt' crank is the same thing but not polished. $83 with bearings doesn't sound bad. IIRC the cranks are the same for 305 and 350. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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04-20-2006, 12:28 AM | #3 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
Unless the crank is damaged, it likely doesn't need turned. A polish will suffice. You can polish the crank yourself too. Get some 600 grit wet/dry paper and cut long strips the width of the journal. Wet the paper with WD40 and polish back and forth, turn crank 1/4 turn or so several times to keep it even, hard to remove much metal with 600 grit so don't worry too much.
882 heads are pretty decent for a 350. If the bore isn't too bad you may be able to reuse the pistons, thats a subjective call, but if you bore it, add some flat tops, but be careful they don't sell you the rebuilder type that are .020 shorter than stock. Try to get the piston top .040 to .050 from the head by decking block or usng thin gaskets, that should put compression about 9.1 to 1. 305 crank may be same casting and stroke as 350, but you will have to get everthing balanced, since the 305 pistons and rods are lighter than a 350, so crank balance will be diffferent. You will have to get new cam bearings installed if they hot tank the block, add about 50 to 60 dollars installed. Hope that helps some.
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 Last edited by Green Machine; 04-20-2006 at 12:34 AM. |
04-20-2006, 09:52 AM | #4 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
Great info for a first timer . Thanks guys
Tom this time I'll have the beer and watch you!!!
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04-20-2006, 12:30 PM | #5 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
Are all those trucks in your avatar yours?!
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04-20-2006, 01:38 PM | #6 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
If the engine crank came from did not knock & there aren't any scratches or gouges in the bearing surfaces you are prolly fine. Polish it yourself w/some emery cloth & a few hours in hand. brian
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04-20-2006, 02:02 PM | #7 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
you can buy a brand new crank that's polished for $150 add about $30 for the main and rod bearings @ www.speedway.com
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04-20-2006, 02:08 PM | #8 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
Please Please Please!!!!!!!!!!!!! Stop and remember that the rod throws do not wear round and the primary reason for grinding is to re-establish roundness and of course finish.. For what you are doing I would just get a good reputable crank kit and you know then you have a good bottom end.
If you realyu wish to use your old crank, minimaly mike the joournals and see where they are for size and roundness. A perfectly smooth and shiny journal that is not round is going to take out a bearing. |
04-20-2006, 04:15 PM | #9 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
Yes, crank should be mic'd to see if it is ok. Everything you spend is just insurance that something won't go bad. It depends on how much you want to roll the dice. I just did what most would likely call a half assed rebuild on a 305. I did mic the crank, it was on lower side of standard. No part of that engine ever saw the machine shop. Rings, bearings, timing chain and oil pump, heads were good, new valve seals and put back on. about $200 in parts, we'll see what happens. Did you mention beer ??? Now I'm thirsty !!!
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 |
04-20-2006, 09:58 PM | #10 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
BEEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRRR??????????!!!!!! YA MAN!
I once rebuilt a 327 that had 150,000 miles on it and spun a rod bearing. Other than a bad cam it ran like fire on a praire in August!!! I put a crank kit in it, had it honed, new rings, valve job stock bore stock pistons ============== liise as a goose with a tight bottom end!!! Ran like a circle track racer. I had a rebuilt Quadra on it and I would kick that 4 barrel in on a long pass just as a new model truck was about to go around me and leave him wonderin WHAT THE ....?????? That mptpr is still running strong at prolly another 75,000 or more on it!!! Buy the crank kit!! That is where it realy matters!! Do a valve train upgrade and you will LIKE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ThhHAT calls for another BEER!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
04-20-2006, 11:38 PM | #11 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
70stovebolt yes those are all mine and there are some missing besides.
Now you know why I have to do things on a budget so to speak. Have included a family pic and my rebuilders pic. My 71 ochre cheyenne work truck and my silver 68 stepside haven't been included in a family pic yet. Hard to get every one clean and posed at same time for a family pic. And builders
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Last edited by Solver; 04-20-2006 at 11:39 PM. |
04-21-2006, 01:14 AM | #12 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
I need a complete 67-68 front end..............LOL
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04-21-2006, 02:04 AM | #13 |
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Location: Monett Missouri
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
Solver,I would take the one from the engine down,and have a machinist mic it for ya.If it needs turned,sounds like it's cheapest to go to the store and buy one,it may even come with bearings,which will save you some cash on a kit if it does.
A 305 has the same deminsions as a 350,only the bore is different. Nice lot of trucks there.How about an interior shot of the green one?
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04-21-2006, 08:04 AM | #14 |
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Re: Turn my Crank or not
Micing a crank is probably not my strong suit so that's probably a good idea brainchild. gotta start somewhere.
thanks for suggestion. heres pic green truck interior
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