help please....still broken - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72sleeper · 07-29-2002, 05:03 PM

this is pissin me off ive posted about it many times and i cant getit fixed and my dad is so lazy, but anyways my c10 when i first start it it runs fine but after about 10 minutes it starts to miss and my oil pressure gauge starts jumpin and i have to put it in nuetral when stopped so it wont die on me and i thank yall for the help but ivechecked the valves there fine(and if it was the valves wouldnt it be regularly missin instead of verysparatic?) and ive put in thicker oil (15w50) then that didnt work so i put in lucas oil thickner didnt work either, im thinkin it has to do with heat cause when my compartment is cool its fine but when i drive around for a lil it starts to do it after the heat builds up so any help would be great thanks..............

colohusker · 07-29-2002, 05:16 PM

What is your intake combination? carb, intake, etc? The missing and poor running sounds to me like flooding. If your running an edelbrock, do you have a fuel pressure regulator? I know edelbrock's don't like more than 6 psi of fuel or they overflow their float and dump fuel down the primaries. Another thing might be the route of your fuel line. If it's too close to the exhaust, might be getting too hot and vaporizing on you. Just thoughts.. keep us posted as to what you find out...

Longhorn Man · 07-29-2002, 06:07 PM

Yeah, describe your set up...esp all the external parts in detail. Maybe we can nab this in the ass.

72sleeper · 07-29-2002, 11:48 PM

its a brand new 4 bolt main, 350 bored over, with mild cam ,and a stock intake with holley 500cfm 2bbl, the heads arent stock but there not built like crazy im to sure on the valve sizes and stuff the motor was only 500 and worked fine so i didnt ask alotta questions and ive had it about 6months, i got the carter 650 sittin on my performer intake in my garage i just wanna fix thetruck first i have braided fuel line and its not really close to my headers so i dont think that could be it thanks

Super Chevy · 07-29-2002, 11:52 PM

I'm thinking mabe you fuel level isnt set? you ever set it recently?

Denny · 07-30-2002, 12:02 AM

You probably already checked this but does your choke open all the way up after the engine warms up? Also what is the deal with the oil pressure? Are your lifters making noise?

Blazer1970 · 07-30-2002, 12:47 PM

Oil pressure will sometimes drop just because the idle is so low as the engine is about to stall. I would make sure the choke is opening all the way as Denny suggested.

ibjoker69 · 07-30-2002, 03:55 PM

I look for the simple solutions. A clogged filter or a clogged fuel line. I had a 68 shelby that at some point a extra filter was placed in the line and I had the same type of truble and it took me two months rebuilding the carb, and the distributor checking pressures and pushing it around town. I blew out the line with air ect. and findly found this filter with a gello like clog in it. So look for a clog these trucks have had alot done to them and at any time the gas in the tank could have congeled, or it just has junk in it. I would have sold the Shelby cheep if I could have gotten it to run over 30 min.. I was that upset. That was my gripe Joker69

bigjimzlll · 07-30-2002, 05:12 PM

do you have an oil sending unit type of oil pressure gauge?,,it could be shorting out, causeing the engine to try to stall

CE20934 · 07-30-2002, 06:08 PM

The bus did the same thing to me a couple weeks ago. I replaced the fuel filter (cleaned all the rust out the sediment bowl too), dumped a half-gallon of kerosene (cheaper than drygas by far) in the tank, changed the points, and pulled the carb (crow-sucking Holley 2bbl) apart. All that didn't do a thing. Still ran horribly. So I acted on a hunch and messed with the needle & seat. Once gas started pouring out the sight port, the bus no longer had that stalling issue.

Check your float bowl fuel level once you have the truck running (a 10 minute window is more than enough).

On a side note, how would an oil pressure sending unit shorting out cause an engine to stall? The sending unit is already grounded. If the wire going to the sending unit shorted out, the gauge would go berserk, but the engine would not stall.

busterwivell · 07-30-2002, 06:20 PM

I had this problem with my 402 right after it was rebuilt. Had it towed a few times, rebuilt carb when engine built. Could get to idle fine, but running down the road would die and not restart. Long story short......the fuel filter inside the carb was TWISTED and would limit fuel supply to the point it would starve. Simple cheap fix that bugged me for a couple of months GGGRRRRRRR.

bigjimzlll · 07-30-2002, 11:39 PM

ok..im stupid..and im an electrician..lol..I stand corrected.. still trying to figure out all this auto electric stuff..using the ground for a switch leg..geez who'd a thunk

72sleeper · 07-31-2002, 02:08 AM

my choke is manual so its always open thats not it if it was somthin clogged though wouldnt it happen all the time not just after it gets warm underthe hood???

OhioDan · 07-31-2002, 05:14 AM

Had a 59 Pontiac that had a similar problem. Ran fine until it warmed up, then it would go to crap. Come to find out, the previous owner had overheated it so bad, that it drew the temper out of the cam. When it would warm up, the cam would whip around like a wet noodle. Swapped cam, and the problem went away. Just my $.02 .

*67Fleetsidedream* · 07-31-2002, 09:42 AM

What kind of ignition do you have? Point or HEI. Mine did the same thing when I had points. What kind of condition is your plug wires in? Are they rubbing the exhaust? Are they arcing when they get warm? What is the gap on your plugs? They should be .045. How about the cap and rotor?
What is the clearence on the rod and main bearings? If known.
Are the lifters in good shape with no restriction in movement?
How many miles is on the cam?
Just a few questions.
Ben

07-29-2002, 05:03 PM	#1
72sleeper []D [] []v[] []D Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: h'vegas,TN,USA Posts: 78	help please....still broken this is pissin me off ive posted about it many times and i cant getit fixed and my dad is so lazy, but anyways my c10 when i first start it it runs fine but after about 10 minutes it starts to miss and my oil pressure gauge starts jumpin and i have to put it in nuetral when stopped so it wont die on me and i thank yall for the help but ivechecked the valves there fine(and if it was the valves wouldnt it be regularly missin instead of verysparatic?) and ive put in thicker oil (15w50) then that didnt work so i put in lucas oil thickner didnt work either, im thinkin it has to do with heat cause when my compartment is cool its fine but when i drive around for a lil it starts to do it after the heat builds up so any help would be great thanks.............. __________________ Clint 72 c'10 350ci/400hp sleeper forever

07-29-2002, 05:16 PM	#2
colohusker Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 436	What is your intake combination? carb, intake, etc? The missing and poor running sounds to me like flooding. If your running an edelbrock, do you have a fuel pressure regulator? I know edelbrock's don't like more than 6 psi of fuel or they overflow their float and dump fuel down the primaries. Another thing might be the route of your fuel line. If it's too close to the exhaust, might be getting too hot and vaporizing on you. Just thoughts.. keep us posted as to what you find out... __________________ ------------------------------------------------ I say it's only money, my wife says it's only a truck.... '71 C10 Deluxe, factory ac, ps, pb, should be done by 2102 Longmont, CO husker95@hotmail.com Last edited by colohusker; 07-29-2002 at 05:18 PM.

07-29-2002, 11:48 PM	#4
72sleeper []D [] []v[] []D Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: h'vegas,TN,USA Posts: 78	its a brand new 4 bolt main, 350 bored over, with mild cam ,and a stock intake with holley 500cfm 2bbl, the heads arent stock but there not built like crazy im to sure on the valve sizes and stuff the motor was only 500 and worked fine so i didnt ask alotta questions and ive had it about 6months, i got the carter 650 sittin on my performer intake in my garage i just wanna fix thetruck first i have braided fuel line and its not really close to my headers so i dont think that could be it thanks __________________ Clint 72 c'10 350ci/400hp sleeper forever

07-30-2002, 12:02 AM	#6
Denny Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Cedar Hill, MO Posts: 426	You probably already checked this but does your choke open all the way up after the engine warms up? Also what is the deal with the oil pressure? Are your lifters making noise? __________________ 1969 Chevy C10. Dakota Digital Gauges, 383 Votex Engine, MSD 8361 Distributor, MSD 6A Unit, Demon Carb, Phoenix Transmission 4L80E trans, 3:73 Posi Rear End Early Classics 6 Lug Disc Brakes and Spindles All Stainless Lines

07-30-2002, 12:47 PM	#7
Blazer1970 Registered User Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Old Mission, MI, USA Posts: 2,510	Oil pressure will sometimes drop just because the idle is so low as the engine is about to stall. I would make sure the choke is opening all the way as Denny suggested. __________________ Tim

07-29-2002, 06:07 PM	#3
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Yeah, describe your set up...esp all the external parts in detail. Maybe we can nab this in the ass.

07-29-2002, 11:52 PM	#5
Super Chevy Registered User Join Date: Feb 2001 Location: Ohio Posts: 1,025	I'm thinking mabe you fuel level isnt set? you ever set it recently?

07-30-2002, 03:55 PM	#8
ibjoker69 hahaha Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Bakersfield, Ca USA Posts: 131	I look for the simple solutions. A clogged filter or a clogged fuel line. I had a 68 shelby that at some point a extra filter was placed in the line and I had the same type of truble and it took me two months rebuilding the carb, and the distributor checking pressures and pushing it around town. I blew out the line with air ect. and findly found this filter with a gello like clog in it. So look for a clog these trucks have had alot done to them and at any time the gas in the tank could have congeled, or it just has junk in it. I would have sold the Shelby cheep if I could have gotten it to run over 30 min.. I was that upset. That was my gripe Joker69 __________________ 69lwb, 29 A coupe hotrod, 55 chevy hardtop,

07-30-2002, 05:12 PM	#9
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	do you have an oil sending unit type of oil pressure gauge?,,it could be shorting out, causeing the engine to try to stall __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

07-30-2002, 06:08 PM	#10
CE20934 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: Help! I'm in an office park with its own network of freeways! Posts: 470	The bus did the same thing to me a couple weeks ago. I replaced the fuel filter (cleaned all the rust out the sediment bowl too), dumped a half-gallon of kerosene (cheaper than drygas by far) in the tank, changed the points, and pulled the carb (crow-sucking Holley 2bbl) apart. All that didn't do a thing. Still ran horribly. So I acted on a hunch and messed with the needle & seat. Once gas started pouring out the sight port, the bus no longer had that stalling issue. Check your float bowl fuel level once you have the truck running (a 10 minute window is more than enough). On a side note, how would an oil pressure sending unit shorting out cause an engine to stall? The sending unit is already grounded. If the wire going to the sending unit shorted out, the gauge would go berserk, but the engine would not stall. __________________ '67 C20--427 tall deck/SM420, 4.10 HO52 (Michigan has not been kind to the Old Man) '95 Caprice--355 LT1/T56/3.42 8.5" 10-bolt (daily driver, almost 300k on the chassis) '07 Outback--wife's car. 125k & counting. No head gasket or transmission issues yet. fingers crossed

07-30-2002, 06:20 PM	#11
busterwivell Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Sahuarita, AZ USA Posts: 2,033	I had this problem with my 402 right after it was rebuilt. Had it towed a few times, rebuilt carb when engine built. Could get to idle fine, but running down the road would die and not restart. Long story short......the fuel filter inside the carb was TWISTED and would limit fuel supply to the point it would starve. Simple cheap fix that bugged me for a couple of months GGGRRRRRRR. __________________ Bill - Tucson, AZ 47 Chevrolet 2 dr sedan 56 Chevrolet 210 2 dr sedan 66 Chevrolet Malibu 2 dr 4 speed 71 Chevrolet C30 Longhorn 86 Chevrolet Monte Carlo SS (Sold) 01 Chevrolet Tahoe IM - BUSTERWIVE@aol.com

07-30-2002, 11:39 PM	#12
bigjimzlll Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Redding,CA...USA Posts: 4,736	ok..im stupid..and im an electrician..lol..I stand corrected.. still trying to figure out all this auto electric stuff..using the ground for a switch leg..geez who'd a thunk __________________ It's called "drag racing" if they called it "tic..tic..WHAM!..BANG! F*&K!!!", they'd have to keep the magazines under the counter with the other men's publications click the clicky to join the site.... http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/payments.php 67 lwb..first hotrod in 25 years..540 best ET is 9.45 @ 141.44 Anderson,CA

07-31-2002, 02:08 AM	#13
72sleeper []D [] []v[] []D Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: h'vegas,TN,USA Posts: 78	my choke is manual so its always open thats not it if it was somthin clogged though wouldnt it happen all the time not just after it gets warm underthe hood??? __________________ Clint 72 c'10 350ci/400hp sleeper forever

07-31-2002, 05:14 AM	#14
OhioDan Registered User Join Date: Apr 2002 Location: New Carlisle, Ohio,USA Posts: 1,404	Had a 59 Pontiac that had a similar problem. Ran fine until it warmed up, then it would go to crap. Come to find out, the previous owner had overheated it so bad, that it drew the temper out of the cam. When it would warm up, the cam would whip around like a wet noodle. Swapped cam, and the problem went away. Just my $.02 . __________________ LIFE AIN'T EASY WHEN YER FAT AND GREASY! GMC= Got More Class! 1970 GMC LWB, Fleetside, 350/4spd, Flowmaster "40's", 2002 GMC 16" Rallies, cowl hood,and added a bunch of options that weren't there when I started.

07-31-2002, 09:42 AM	#15
67Fleetsidedream Wiseass secured himself a BAN Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: MOON!!! Posts: 2,282	What kind of ignition do you have? Point or HEI. Mine did the same thing when I had points. What kind of condition is your plug wires in? Are they rubbing the exhaust? Are they arcing when they get warm? What is the gap on your plugs? They should be .045. How about the cap and rotor? What is the clearence on the rod and main bearings? If known. Are the lifters in good shape with no restriction in movement? How many miles is on the cam? Just a few questions. Ben



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