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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Birmingham,Alabama
Posts: 260
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trans crossmember
Am I over looking something or Do I have to cut off or what ever the rivets in there and replace with grade 8 hardware???
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1969 c10 stepside 250 inline six, 4speed granny tranny, 4.11 posi rear end |
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#2 |
Gone Fishing
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Fort Worth, Texas 76135
Posts: 12,361
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Re: trans crossmember
Are you moving it or?????? If you are installing one yes use the grade 8 hardware
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68 Chevy Short Fleetside LSX Swap Under Way 3.73 posi 2.5/4 drop ![]() 2022 Hyundai Tucson Limited 2019 Chevy Traverse Redline Edition Wifes Ride Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post3483616 |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Birmingham,Alabama
Posts: 260
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Re: trans crossmember
well im removing it to move it so I can pull the motor tranny
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1969 c10 stepside 250 inline six, 4speed granny tranny, 4.11 posi rear end |
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#4 |
Sleep-Deprived
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Tulsa, Oklahoma
Posts: 445
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Re: trans crossmember
Putting in an automatic? Die grinder, and an assortment of hammers, pry bars, chisels and punches really help out.
Edit: I did end up buying a foot long drill bit to drill the heads off the top rivets (unless your cab is off the frame). Once the bottom rivets were out, I put the drill bit into the rivet holes, and drilled the heads off the top ones - it takes a while, and is hard to keep the drill bit centered on the rivet head. Or you can cut the manual cross member into 3 pieces for better access with the grinder to the top rivets.
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1971 K/10 Long Fleetside 350/350 - 6" Lift 1969 C/10 SWB 292 - Sold It Last edited by 69_hafton; 05-16-2006 at 11:51 PM. |
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Southern Pines NC
Posts: 3,853
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Re: trans crossmember
grade 5 is actually strong enough
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#6 |
"Ochre Ogre"
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Springfield, MN
Posts: 3,558
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Re: trans crossmember
It will be easier to split the tranny from the engine than to remove the crossmember. Just my opinion.
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Bowtie Truck Stop Inc. Mid-West GM Truck Restoration Parts Supplier Your Key Parts, Auto Metal Direct, Dynacorn, and Goodmark dealer. like us @ www.facebook.com/BowtieTruckStop 1971 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1971 K-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 C-10 Suburban (Ochre) 1972 K-20 Suburban (Yellow- that just aint right!) Springfield, Minnesota 56087 |
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#7 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Birmingham,Alabama
Posts: 260
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Re: trans crossmember
Quote:
alrighty then, on the sides near the bottom do those bolts feed from the inside or they just dowl pins? its a granny 4 speed attached to a 250
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1969 c10 stepside 250 inline six, 4speed granny tranny, 4.11 posi rear end |
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#8 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: trans crossmember
ieasiest way to get out...
cut the center piece out. cut the remainder to two individual pieces. take a sawzall to the rivet heads. beat the four small pieces off with a hammer. so many people told me to die grind or air hammer/air chisel off the rivets, but my air hammer must have sucked, didn't work with crap. my destruction: ![]()
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#9 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Vacaville, CA
Posts: 2,272
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Re: trans crossmember
I jacked up the cab and took a grinder to cut the rivets out. It needed new cab mounts anyway.
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#10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Birmingham,Alabama
Posts: 260
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Re: trans crossmember
Quote:
all that would be great and dandy if 1 the cab was off the truck, 2 I still NEED to keep the crossmember in one piece
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1969 c10 stepside 250 inline six, 4speed granny tranny, 4.11 posi rear end |
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#11 |
10/30/19
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: ottawa kansas
Posts: 5,215
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Re: trans crossmember
I used a grinder to grind the rivets and a hammer and punch to remove the rivets to the manual x-member.(no need to cut the xmember)I of course had everything powder coated before I put the automatic x-member in,i did used grade 8 bolts.
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Fight the good fight, finish the race, keep the faith |
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#12 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Idaho
Posts: 4,034
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Re: trans crossmember
Anyway you go at it, it's a pain in the rear
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"Remember, They can Kill You, but they can't eat You, That's against the law!!!!!!!!!" |
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#13 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: trans crossmember
my cab was on the truck when i did it
![]() you have no easy task on your hands to keep that thing intact if your cab is on. those top rivets are a BEAR. you'll need to lift the cab to access them if you wanna do it the "easy way". this is easily done by unbolting the cab mounts, getting a jack and two pieces of wood (4x4s work nicely) seat the wood vertically in the floor jack to lift the cab, then use the other piece of wood as a "jack stand" of sorts. you can lift the cab enough to do one side at a time. grind or cut the rivet head off, then take a punch and hammer (or air hammer w/punch) and punch the rivet out from the side you ground/cut it. i suppose you could chisel or (air hammer w/chisel) the other side of the rivet to peel it out, but ... either way, it's a pain ![]() getting my crossmember out was one of the single most pains in the ass i dealt with on my truck. i would have never gotten it out in one piece. removing the rear one to put in my tank was much easier, lots more room ![]()
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If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Southern Pines NC
Posts: 3,853
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Re: trans crossmember
I use a torch carefully and then a big punch and a even bigger hammer, a pain anyway you look at it.
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#15 |
Questionable
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 13,376
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Re: trans crossmember
i've heard at least one other person swear by the torches - those rivets are steel or lead or something and are supposed to melt right out?
__________________
If I've got anything up for grabs, it'll be here: 7-hole gauge cluster for a 67-72 p/u FREE (link) I can't check the forum daily. If I don't reply to you within 24 hours, drop me a PM! I'm (hopefully) still alive and will reply faster to a PM. |
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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Westminster, CO
Posts: 3,071
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Re: trans crossmember
Shifty...I did mine just like you did....Dewalt sawsall and about 4 blades! My cab was on the truck bolted down tight.
Last edited by ChevyDude; 05-18-2006 at 12:22 AM. |
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#17 |
Hellion
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Litchfield Park, Arizona
Posts: 122
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Re: trans crossmember
Yeah thats how I did it, used a grinder 80grit wheel and grind em flat then punch em out with a hammer!! Sometimes I had to use the drill to drill em out, well then again I pulled almost 75 rivets out of my frame and gonna replacing em with some strong stainless steel bolts after the frame has been powder coated Silvervain!! Oh yeah dont use a torch, in the earlier 1940's when those rivets where designed they use to be made out of some kind of nickle when you go to cut em they would just pop which they do! You take the chance of wearing a 40+ year old melted rivet on your skin its up to you!!
Last edited by Oldschool68; 05-18-2006 at 12:41 AM. |
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