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#1 |
Almost Satisfied
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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Pics for Removing Spindles
I began tearing down the front end last night and discovered that the spindles and A-arms are a little bit of a pain to take apart. Does anyone have any pics or steps to do this. I was unsure wich end to try and get off first and I don't have any ball joint tools.
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1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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#2 |
Careful, they attack...
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Waterford, MI, USA
Posts: 1,107
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Go to Sears and get a ball joint separator tool. They aren't very expensive. If you don't have the right tools you are never goingto get them apart. You should always use the right tools, especially when it comes to things like the front end. You could end up damaging something and then be up a creek. I got my ball joint tool for like $20 and still had to use a 8 lb sledge to drive them apart. Be careful about the springs, they can pop out when they are separated. I put my floor jack under the lower arm about an inch, so when it came loose it wouldn't go very far. Good luck
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#3 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 929
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For safety, always leave the nut on the balljoint. Loosen it about 5 turns then use either a seperator or using a small sledge hit the spindle (where the balljoint stem comes through) and it will pop it apart.
The seperators or pickle forks as we call them will distroy the ball joint boot so plan on replacing the ball joints if you havent already. The other way will distort the metal on the spindle somewhat but will not do any structural damage. Usually one or two good hits will pop it. You should always be careful when doing this but if you leave the nuts on you'll be fine. If you are going for a complete tear down I would go in this order: -seperate the tie rod from the spindle -remove the caliper if equipt -LOOSEN both upper and lower ball joint nuts. -serperate the upper and lower ball joints, leaving the nuts on. -While truck is on jackstands, place a floor jack NOT a bottle jack under the outer most part of the control arm. -Jack the control arm up until you see the upper arm start to move. -remove the upper ball joint nut and allow spindle to fall back. -remove the lower ball joint nut and remove spindle. Your now ready to unbolt the lower shock bolt. -remove the bolt and SLOWLY lower your jack (be sure not to stand directly infront of the suspension) until the spring has no tension. Listen for it to slide a bit before grabbing onto it. Be very carfull on the last step... Use commen sense and you'll be fine ![]() Last edited by Zkast; 08-14-2002 at 07:40 PM. |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: jefferson city, mo
Posts: 1,364
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i put a chain on the spring and atach it to the frame, theres a guy at work we call winky, lost an eye when the spring flew out, loosen the nuts and use a pickle fork and a good size hammer, it will come apart pretty quick, have the a arm on a floor jack and loosen the nuts on the ball joint a little at a time, it will jump but not much, if you need help let me know, i will swing by and do what i can.
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#5 |
Almost Satisfied
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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Thanks lost wages. Somehow I knew you would post to help me out. I will run to Sears and get a pickle fork. The good news is that the springs are already out. They were cut at one point to lower the truck, so when you jack it up you can pull the springs right out. I won't be using the old spindles or ball joints so no big deal if they get a little damaged. I will give it a whirl and let you know if I need some help.
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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#6 |
Almost Satisfied
![]() Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 2,932
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Alright! New Pickle Fork, new 3# hammer, and two new jack stands (I needed them, really) and I am ready to try to beat the spindles off my truck! Wish me luck.
Now, if I could get those 30 year old cotter keys out!!
__________________
1971 C10 Stepside. LSx 6.0 with BTR Stage IV, Speed Engineering Headers, 4L80e transmission w/3200 Circle-D Stall. 3.73. Posi. Purchased this truck when I was 17. I started the rebuild (or take apart) in 1993. I have drug it around all over the country in pieces. Finally back on the road in 2021. "I can't complain, but sometimes I still do. Life's been good to me so far." |
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#7 |
Saving 1 truck at a time!
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 6,465
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I did not use the pickle fork since my ball joints are good and I did not want to risk damage to the ball joint seal (almost inevitable with this tool). Our auto parts stores here (Schucks) have a free tool loan policy that will allow you to use their puller kit for free (24 hours...$5+ or -/day after). These work great...no hammers required...no damage! Took about 5 minutes at most. Just my 0.02.
BTW...all the safety procedures above as well. I am nuts so I did mine in my flip-flops and shorts...call me three toes!
__________________
'68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 400/TH400 '68 C20 Longhorn 50th Anniversary 468/TH400w/buckets '72 C20 Halfhorn (Longhorn w/o cab and front clip) '69 Flxible Cruiser (look up ugly in the dictionary) Last edited by stllookn; 08-15-2002 at 02:06 PM. |
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