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10-29-2006, 08:10 AM | #1 |
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1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
I'm getting at the point where I'm going to be shortening the drive shaft in my 70 1/2T long fleet. It has a 350 turbo in at the moment. I'm installing a 700r4 and will be taking 3 inches off the shaft. Question is, since I'm going through all this, should I just convert to a 1 piece shaft or stay with the 2 piece one? The truck is stock height, and will be staying that way. Are there any major mods to do too the frame for a 1 piece? Will the carrier support be in the way of a 1 piece? Any advice??
steve
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1997 GMC Sierra Ext 1965 Mustang Last edited by 70GMCer; 10-29-2006 at 08:12 AM. |
10-29-2006, 10:34 AM | #2 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
there is no good reason IMO to swap to a one piece in a LWB truck. Get good componentes, have a drive shaft shop assemble and ballance it, and you sholuld be good for another 10 - 15 years on U-joints, and 30 years on the C-bearing... and that's if it's a daily driver.
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10-29-2006, 01:10 PM | #3 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
Andy and I always disagree on this everytime it comes up, but here's what it boils down to: If you ever have to replace the carrier bearing with one of those cheap aftermarket flimsy ones- you'll regret that you ever stayed with the 2-piece driveshaft! The problem is that most of the time they don't last more than a year- maybe less, and you'll be right back to square one and having to do it all over again. Whereas the 1-piece dl's you can get rid of alot of that crap and be done with it forever. Many have done a 1-piece on a LWB and have done just fine with no problems whatsoever.
If you decide to keep the 2-piece, (which in it's stock form was great) do yourself a favor and either A)weld up the craptabulous cheapy bearing around the lip so that the rubber inside doesn't spin (this is why they don't last) or B)spend the extra $$$ and get one of those billet/polyurethane aftermarket bearings. They're expensive, but I've heard they're good.
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10-29-2006, 05:04 PM | #4 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
one piece or two piece depends on the length of the shaft according to my local driveline shop. if i remember correctly 60" is the maximum length on a one piece shaft.
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10-29-2006, 06:45 PM | #5 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
i pulled my c-bearing off my truck after 34 years and am regetting it since it was till strong and got to thinking hey while i'm here well 6 months later it broke (the one i got from orielys) i got a new one from advance auto i could tell right off it was a better one its in there and still strong no troubles since i installed it
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10-29-2006, 07:27 PM | #6 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
I don't want to take over GMCer's thread.... But.....
What modifications would have to be done to run a 1 piece drive shaft? Would you be able to lower the truck any with a 1 piece drive shaft? Both question are for the long wheel base trucks.... Steven
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10-30-2006, 09:19 AM | #7 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
Check out this thread. I should help you out. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=131693
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"The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources." "No one really listens to anyone else, and if you try it for a while you'll see why" 71 C-10 LWB presently in a perpetual state of disassembly '96 Toyota (my work car) '04 Mustang Convertable (wife's car & other money pit) Latest aquesition and why my trucks still in the garage covered with junk.. 2010 Aqua Blue metallic 6 speed Manual LS3 2SS/RS Camaro (I want one of these in my truck FAQ here VENDORS here SUPPORT THE BOARD here My second favorite SITE Last edited by kbs71; 10-30-2006 at 09:20 AM. |
10-30-2006, 01:51 PM | #8 | |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
Quote:
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2002 Silverado 2500HD LB7 CCSB LT EFI Live by Rob at ATP, Edge CTS Insight DSP 5 control, S&B CAI, PPE boost valve, Pro Fab AIH, AirDog II 165, PPE WIF sensor delete plug, 5" stainless exhaust, Cognito braces & HD tie rods, H2's 315/70 R17 BFG's 2004 Tahoe LT 2006 Silverado Z71 LS 1971 Chevy C10 |
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10-30-2006, 09:57 AM | #9 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
I agree with Brad. If you stay with the 2 piece get GOOD parts.
I personally have a 1 piece in my SWB and have NO problems what so ever. My son had a 1 piece in his LWB and it too worked fine but we always thought we felt a slight vibration even after having the shop re check the balance. Your right Jerry 60 inches is what Driveline specialty recommends as far as Max length and then you have to go with bigger tubing
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10-30-2006, 10:26 AM | #10 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
If you have a high torque or horsepower engine go with a one piece. It took me breaking 3 carrier bearings to realize it, my 1 piece is awesome.
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10-30-2006, 03:55 PM | #11 | |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
Quote:
If your carrier bearing is snapping, you either need to get better parts, or find the real problem. I've seen a 1/2 ton 68 LWB doing 12's in the 1/4, good traction, (only spin the tires 5 or 6 feet outta the hole) stock 2 pce drive shafts, and the carrier bearing was the original 250,000 mile piece. |
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10-30-2006, 04:35 PM | #12 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
A lot of good advice here. I have a 84 Suburban 1 piece shaft, that was what I was thinking on using. Still not decided yet. I have a moderately built 350 and have never had problems with my 2 piece. Was just wondering about if I have to shorten one, why not the 1 piece one I have? Either way, it's going to cost the same.
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10-30-2006, 04:35 PM | #13 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
That may be the case but since I went to a 1 piece I have not had one problem. I prefer the 1 piece anyways I guess it is a preference, but that is some good info thanks Longhorn!
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10-30-2006, 08:31 PM | #14 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
I realize I didn't elaborate.
The tranny and engine are secured to the frame and cross member. There should be no left and right movement at all. It'll twist a little, but nothing else. So twisting the drive shaft in direct line is all that is supposed to be going on with the front shaft. If your engine and tranny are bolted in at the wrong angle (laft and right... not centered) then you could be snapping C-bearings. If you have the wrong angle as far as nose height and tailshaft height, that could break the C-bearing. A combo of both problems would play hell ...throw in a broken drivers side motor mount, and the bearing is bound to break. A one piece shaft will not be effected by these problems. It only has to go from point a to point b... there is nothing holding it in the center. Now, a one piece shaft should not be made longer than 6 ft. (talking steel, not the modern fragile alluminum ones) The reason 6 ft is the industry standard, is becouse the shaft starts to sag if it is longer. You may not be able to see it, but you'll feel it 'whipping' as you go faster. Now, some places CAN actually make a shaft longer than 6 ft, however, they have to make it out of rather large tubing. There is normally fitment issues going through the cross member. The 2 piece is stronger, becouse a short pipe will always be stronger than a long one, if all variables are the same between the 2. It's easier to twist a long one into a twizler. No, not common at all, and yes it takes some seriouse power and traction... I'm only mentioning it becouse so many ppl think a one piece is stronger. There are plenty of people who have had one piece shafts made, and work good. There's plenty of shops that'll make one for you... most of them shouldn't... but there are some places that can do it, and do it right. If you were to measure the one under the suburban, You'll probably find it to be too short. They moved the engine further back in 73, and later went to long shaft trannys to get it all back far enough to use one piece shafts. |
10-30-2006, 09:30 PM | #15 |
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Re: 1 piece or 2 piece drive shaft advise
heres mine 67 LSS 85 gmc LWB |
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