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#1 |
Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 1,787
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Stupid Question - Rear End Yoke/U-Joint Issue
I have a '71 K-10 with the (to be believed) original rear axle. I went to put new u-joints in it for the rear driveshaft and had a problem upon re-installing the drive shaft. The front fits into the transfer case fine. The rear ujoint fits into the driveshaft fine but when I put it into the Rear End yoke it is ver sloppy between the little tabs on the yoke. I miced the yoke and it is about 3.315" The U-Joint mics up @ 3.250"ish - so the yoke is almost .100" wider between the cup stops than the New USA "Precision" U-Joint (#369 Joint).
WTF Gives? I know that there is a u-joint that is longer on 1 axis than the other - I tryed that (#134 Joint) but it is way to long. - I tried it. is it possible that the yoke wore out because of a previous bad U-Joint slopping around in there??? I stuck a couple of washers in it for the time just to hold it there (I'm not driving the truck anyway). LMC lists a NEW Yoke for '71-72 CK 5 10 for the 12 bolt for $119 ![]() Thanks, Andy ![]() ![]() ![]()
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-'07 GMC Sierra K2500HD -'66 C10 Suburban -'68/'71 K20 Service Bed Project -'69 Chevy C30 Mason Dump -'33Ford P/U 396ChevyPowered ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by arkracing; 12-10-2006 at 10:05 PM. |
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#2 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 204
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Re: Stupid Question - Rear End Yoke/U-Joint Issue
I had a similar problem on the 14-bolt yoke in my Blazer. The tangs on the yoke were about .150" wider than the u-joint caps... I started to get some really bad vibrations...Replace the yoke and ujoint and all is well (the vibes killed the u-joint)
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Project Family Values Build Thread Vehicles/Projects: -1971 C10 SWB Fleetside! Gathering parts now, will begin frame-off resto soon... Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work. -Aristotle |
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#3 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
Posts: 3,371
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Re: Stupid Question - Rear End Yoke/U-Joint Issue
I've found that if you lay a needle or 2 down in the bottom of the cup it takes care of all of that extra slack !!!
![]() ![]() ![]() Actually it looks like the little ear at the bottom of the yoke on the right side (right side in the pic) looks thinner than the left. Would a little welding and small grinder fix that up ??
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1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 |
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#4 | |
Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 1,787
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Re: Stupid Question - Rear End Yoke/U-Joint Issue
Quote:
Anybody else have this problem? oh and if I just replace the yoke - do I have to have the clearances in the rear re set up or can I just put it back on there with a new seal and torque it down (don't know why i'm asking that cause I'm not going to spend the $ to have it set up right anyway ![]()
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-'07 GMC Sierra K2500HD -'66 C10 Suburban -'68/'71 K20 Service Bed Project -'69 Chevy C30 Mason Dump -'33Ford P/U 396ChevyPowered ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by arkracing; 12-10-2006 at 10:53 PM. |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Tacoma WA
Posts: 1,365
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Re: Stupid Question - Rear End Yoke/U-Joint Issue
Still have the old one? Maybe try a driveshaft shop rather than a parts house. My brother just had a driveshaft built and the counterman seemed to know everything about yokes and u-joints.
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67 C-20 LWB, tilt, speed alert, vac, 454, T400 67 C-10 SWB, factory air with more to follow |
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#6 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Estherville, Iowa
Posts: 3,371
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Re: Stupid Question - Rear End Yoke/U-Joint Issue
Put a mark on the end of the pinion and on the nut with a center punch, lining them up. This will help you get the nut back to the same approx location, however a different yoke may measure slighly different.
Yes, it should have a new crush sleeve, propely torqued to spec giving the proper preload. However, I use my calibrated right wrist to feel the preload before dissasembly. Use an impact to remove nut, then I use the impact to sneak up on the preload until it feels like it did before or just a hair tighter.
__________________
1968 C10 307 3spd Long Fleet ------ http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=201103 1970 C10 305 Super T10 Long Fleet --- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202285 1971 C20 383 TH350 Dana Posi ----- http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=206894 2001 GMC Sierra 1500 C3 6.0 |
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