need suggestions on my 350

[jlaird]

First off, I've got to tell you I know nothing about engines. I'm a total newbie so go easy on me! Quick history: these pictures are of my 350 in my '69. I only drove this truck a couple times after I bought it before taking if off the road to work on the suspension. All I can say is it ran, but not very good. I was pretty darn sluggish. The previous owner said it was a rebuilt engine and unfortunately, that's all I know about it. As you can see from the pics, it's got some Edelbrock components including the intake and carb. The intake says C3BX and I couldn't find any cfm info on the carb.

So basically I've been reading here on what are some popular parts for a 350. I plan on taking the info I read here and bring that and the engine to a local reputable shop to have them look at it. I'm assuming this engine can be rebuilt again but I'm unsure this engine is worthy of being rebuilt. I guess I have to rely on the engine guy to tell me that. Also, I'm wondering if I can use the intake and carb or if I'm better off buying off buying all new stuff. Other questions I have is how much should this cost. What I want out of this engine is a reliable engine that has a little "get up and go." I'm not looking for anything crazy. I also would like to know some things I should ask this engine guy when I go in there and things I should know to tell him. Basically I don't want to go in there sounding like an idoit! Like I said, this is new to me. I would like to spend around $1500-$2000 on the engine.

So what should be my course of action?? Thanks for any help.

Josh

[skchevota]

First off, is it because it is sluggish that you think it need a rebuild,there are many resons that a perfectly good engine could run bad such as bad ignition parts, incorect plugs, incorect timeing, incorect fuel mixture, pluged fuel system, carborator probluems ect. How ever if you just want to start over so you know it is right and what you have then that is different. You should be able to accomplish this within your budget for a nice mild street engine. I would have the block inspected for cracks and then bored if needed, new pistons, rings,bearings, oil pump, cam. from there I would comsider upgraging the heads to maby some vortec's, and a maching intake. For the cam i would go with an edelbrock performer if you dont want a lopy Idle and just want a little over stock, or a comp cams 268h if you want a little more than that. From there have your carb inspected, along with the HEI and then all new plugs, wire, cap, roter, water pump.

[jlaird]

Thanks, this is just the info I need. I would love to hear more. To answer your question, I guess I was using the word "rebuild" loosely. I don't know if it technically needs a rebuild, but like you said, I like things done right the first time. I would rather spend the money up front and have somebody go through the whole thing.

[oldno7]

Well I'm not sure that you need to spend alot of money. Does the truck turn over? Does it run at all? Are you wanting a total rebuild? You should be able to use alot of the parts of your motor! Sometimes in this position it's just a matter of cleaning or rebuilding a few parts (carb). I can tell you that if you have a shop put a fresh motor in the labor is going to kill you. It will probably be equal or more than the parts. Do you have any friends that could help you do some things? You can buy a motor from Jegs or Summit for around 1200-1500. You wound need to do the work yourself. It's not very hard and theres alot of Tech articles on this subject. Besides working on your classis truck is just as much fun as driving it. If you have a shop put in one of these motors you're looking at twice you want to pay! You should just ask the shop how much to get it running. Get a second op. Good luck and let us know what you had done. oldno7

[jlaird]

I would love to do it myself, I'm all for that, I just have a lot to learn. To answer your question, it turns over and runs. I do have several friends that can help me out. I guess I'll see what the shop says and go from there.

[RACINJASON22]

You should get lots of response from this one. The things the guys have told you are good suggestion IMO. I'll add your c3bx intake is an older edelbrock and would be good for your truck, it has larger runners like the performer rpm. Try to get #'s off your carb to run someone might be able to help you here with that. I also agree that you might have tune up issuse that may be making you truck run sluggish, any tune up you do to try to fix your problems
cap, rotor, wires, carb rebuild will be a good investment even if you end up rebuilding or replaceing your engine in the future GOOD LUCK with everything keep us posted

[jlaird]

Here are the numbers off my carb:

Front said: 1407 0162

Top said: 8867

Side said: Weber

Thanks for all the help so far.

[oldno7]

Well I think you should do a little research and start with the basics. I would start with a new air filter, change the oil, put new sparkplugs in (you have to gap plugs usually 35) Put on some new plug wires be careful here do one at a time or you could mess up the firing order. Check the radiator and other fluids.This will at least knock down the price from the shop. Some shops will charge way to much for parts so find out in advance how much to do each part for ex. You can buy a new dist. HEI for a few hundred bucks so dont let them charge you that much for rebuilding the old one. Your better of with a new one! You should probably have your carb rebuilt. The kits are 50-75 bucks and the labor to do it is going to be the same. This is your choice, but you can buy a new one for probably 100-200, it depends what brand you want. I like holley carbs myself. If your motor smokes or leaks oil then you should consider a fresh one. most of the time doing a little gen mantenance will do wonders. I bet for around 750.00 the truck will be running good! Also have them adjust the timing. Between the carb, dist, and timing this should do wonders for how your truck runs. When you leave the shop make sure it runs good! oldno7

[jlaird]

You just jogged my memory. It did smoke a little and if I remember correctly, it was only out of one exhaust pipe. I haven't started it in a while so I forgot about that.

[RACINJASON22]

Edl-1407= you got your self a vacume secondary 750 cfm squarebore. Maybe a little big for you application but it is vacume secondary. Not way over kill you should be fine. People go more over kill sometimes and yet some won't go lower than 750 cfm. keep us posted

[Sport/Truck]

I think it’s your valve covers. Take them off and send them to me. Once you put a stock set back on you’ll be ok.
Send PM of shipping directions! J/K
s/t

[FarmTruk]

How much smoke is a little smoke ?

After the tune-up, I'd recommend Compression test to get a baseline on whether or not a rebuild is needed. Maybe a fresher cam and lifters would "wake up" the 350. Can you get some info/#'s on the heads ?

[FLEET72]

This is what I think from viewing the pictures: Motor appears to be a later model (early - mid 80s?) V8, passenger side dipstick, extra bolt hole on #1, #8 exhaust ports. Carb is manual choke with no cable attached, you gotta put a cable on there or lock that down so it doesn't flop around and cause erratic mixture, or get a electric choke conversion kit for it. But like others have suggested, try to find a smaller carb for better drivability.

Definitely start with a tune-up follwed with a compression test. Small block Chevys are pretty hard to kill... although, I have. got knock?

Also if you decide to buy a new distributor, Summit Racing has a blueprinted one for $95.

[krue]

First step is tune up. This is also a good place to learn some basic mechanical skills. Replace distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires. With HEI you'll need to gap your plugs .045 and make sure the distributor is getting 12v all the time (points distributor used a resistance wire to drop the voltage) Check your timing with a light. When I asked around I was told that a 1407 (750cfm) was a little large for a stockish 350, may want to try a 1406 (600cfm). Try to find a friend with a 1406 (or 1405) and try it.

[jlaird]

Thanks guys. I'm going to take your advice and start with the tuneup and replace all the parts you mentioned, and go from there.

I think I'll just buy a new carb. Any suggestions on exactly which one? There was a choke cable on the carb but I took it off because it was disconnected when I bought it.

[Billla]

All good advice here - especially starting with a good, thorough tune taking nothing for granted.

[bad72c10]

I would recommend a Edelbrock 1406. It's an electric choke 600 cfm. I love mine. I had a holley on it before, and though they may be good for racing I believe that for a street application, an Edelbrock is more practical, and MUCH easier to adjust. But, do yourself a favor and get an electric choke. Justin

[texascowboy593]

Originally Posted by bad72c10

I would recommend a Edelbrock 1406. It's an electric choke 600 cfm. I love mine. I had a holley on it before, and though they may be good for racing I believe that for a street application, an Edelbrock is more practical, and MUCH easier to adjust. But, do yourself a favor and get an electric choke. Justin

That's what I have on mine and it's very easy to set-up. If I can do it...Anyone can!

[PanelDeland]

Also Look for a community college or trade school in your area.There should be one with some night classes on tune -up and A/C and other subsystem repair.These are great places to meet the area gearheads and build a network as well as building the basic skillset you need to keep one of these trucks running.Try to find a Chassis service manual which will have lots of diagrams and step by step description of how-to.

[jlaird]

just an update. I've decided to rebuild this myself based on the fact that I want to learn how to do it. I went over to the machine shop yesterday (very reputable) and here are the price he gave me:

Clean and inspect: $100.00
Align Hone: $165.00
Deck: $120.00
Bore & Hone: two ways, $175 or $270
Install cam bearings and plugs: $42.50 + parts
R&R pistons on rods: $70.00
Recondition Rods: $135 + parts

So does this sound in the ballpark? Anything cause for concern? He said some of this stuff is optional depending on the condition of the block, like the Align Hone, Decking, and Recond. Rods. Should I just have these things done anyway?

I'm starting to think about parts. One question I have is do you guys buy those engine rebuild kits, or do you like to hand pick that parts yourself? Are the gaskets, etc good in the kits? If so, which kits are the best?

Thanks,
Josh

[Billla]

Originally Posted by jlaird

Clean and inspect: $100.00
Align Hone: $165.00
Deck: $120.00
Bore & Hone: two ways, $175 or $270
Install cam bearings and plugs: $42.50 + parts
R&R pistons on rods: $70.00
Recondition Rods: $135 + parts

Most of these are right on in terms of pricing...but the question is what do you need? An align hone is NOT needed for a street engine making < 400 HP, nor is a bore/hone with torque plates (likely the more expensive of the two options). The rod recon price should include new bolts; make sure they're ARPs. Decking the block is only required if it won't clean up within specs.

Lots of good rebuild kits - do a search, but I've used the ones from Summit to good success.

I'd agree that $900 for machine work and assembly is a screaming deal; usually a shop will charge $250 - $450 for assembly.

[RACINJASON22]

902.50 for machine work with nothing along the line of parts exect cam berings and rod bolts??? Sounds like way too much to me, and your not far from here. Good machine work is worth alot but IMO thats too much.

Second all the things you listed are good ideas just maybe for another shop IMO. Check around in your area.

Kits are fine also as long as you can specify over/undersizes on rings, bearings, ect. ect. And as long as the kit has good quality parts maufatures. Dont go with any of the one size fits all kits because they don't. You can usually get the same parts in a kit a pick and chose and save alittle money.

[cdowns]

about the first thing i'd do to that engine is dump the rubber fuel line before the truck burns to the ground

[JAKES 68GMC]

Thats way way to much for machine work. About $500-600 dollars more and you could have a brand new, 260hp 350 long-block crate motor

[BACKYARD88]

I usually tear my engines down myself. I take all of the parts to the machine shop. I've known the owner for a long time and my Dad knew him for a long time before that. I give him an idea of what kind of performance I'm looking for, my budget, and any specifics (cam specs, name brand parts, etc.) I mat want. He does all of the machine work, installs the cam bearings and freeze plugs, checks the rods, and installs the pistons on the rods if they're press on. He gathers all of the parts and gaskets I need, this way I know that everything will work well together, then I pick it all up and put it back together. The last one I did was a 350 short block (got some brand new Vortecs for it ). He did all of the machine work including a .060 bore, new speed pro pistons, comp cam, lifters, rings, bearings, oil pump and all of the gaskets and crap to put it together for a little under 900.00. I don't know if this will help you any but maybe it'll give you an idea of what it should cost. I know he doesn't cut me any huge breaks, but he doesn't gouge me either. Wow, sorry for the long post.